Garage door does not open (trolley stuck?)

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Old 06-22-13, 10:07 AM
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Garage door does not open (trolley stuck?)

Hi all,
My garage door started misbehaving and finally stopped opening. The other day I closed the garage door but it opened up right away after closing. After a couple of attempts it stopped opening altogether.

When I press the opener on the wall the chain just shakes /rattles and gives up.


I have detached the door from the trolley and am manually lifting up the door to get the cars out. The gear and sprocket looks fine. But I changed it out just to be sure but same behavior


If I disconnect the chain the motor rotates fine.


But if I connect the chain back (door still disengaged) all it does is the chain tightens up very hard but the trolley does not budge.


The trolley is on garage door end (not on the opener end). I disconnected the chain and pressed the wall switch to make sure the gear rotated clockwise so that it would be as if garage door was closed. With the garage door still disengaged, I connected the chain back and pressed the button on the wall to see if the trolley would reverse. Motor just hums and chain tightens up but trolley does not move towards garage opener side.


I am not sure what is preventing the trolley from moving. I would assume the trolley would move from door end to opener end easily with the garage door disengaged


Any idea what I should check for ? Should I increase the limits or the force?
 

Last edited by alu2007; 06-22-13 at 10:25 AM.
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  #2  
Old 06-22-13, 10:28 AM
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One important piece of info missing...what brand and model opener?

I'd suspect 2 things. The gear at the door end that the chain rotates around is frozen or the bushings are shot. The other thing might be the capacitor. My old opener would run w/o the door connected, but would just hum and tighten the chain with door connected.

You should be able move the trolly and chain by hand after removal from around the drive gear...if not..you'll be able to find the binding parts.
 
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Old 06-22-13, 11:03 AM
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Hi Gunguy45

Thx for your response.

It is a 1/3HP liftmaster, chain drive.

I will check the gear at the door end. I dont know if there is a way to tell if it is shot. I will see if I can rotate it by hand after taking the chain off.

The chain tightens even without the door connected. It is so tight that I have to relieve the tension screw and remove the chain from one end to get the chain off. This means something is locking up and stopping the gear from turning. This has been puzzling. If I remove the chain the motor turns freely both ways.

The symptom before the door failed was that the door would close and open immediately. It did this a couple of times and then finally the door stopped opening altogether and the chain would just rattle/shake. So I am not sure what part failed to cause it to stop working altogether.



Thx again
 
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Old 06-30-13, 06:54 AM
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Hi all,
Restating the problem..

Problem:Trolley is on door side. Not against stop bolt on the opener side. Garage door no longer opens

What I have tried so far:

  • Replaced gear and sprocket. It did not make a difference
  •  Removed chain from gear. Disconnected garage door. Motor turns fine clockwise and anticlockwise with chain removed
  •  Connect chain. Garage still door disconnected. Press wall switch to open. Chain tightens on one side but trolley does not reverse. The other side of the chain is loose. But one side is really tight
  •  With chain tight on one side, try one more time. Just a small buzz and GDO blinks 5 times and does that over and over. No movement
  •  I have not changed the limits or the force.


From what I have read, it appears that the problem can be any of the following
- Limits or Force out of adjustment
- Starting capacitor
- RPM sensor
- Bad logic board or a cold solder on the logic board
- Gear and Sprocket

Can anyone guide me on the next step to troubleshoot. I already bought the gear and sprocket but it did not fix the problem. I want to avoid buying the capacitor, RPM sensor or logic board.

Thanks
 
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Old 06-30-13, 07:35 AM
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You say gear and sprocket...I'm guessing you mean in the powerhead (motor assy)? What about the gear at the door side of the rail? The one the chain loops around? Does it wobble? Is it loose or frozen? It should turn easily and be rigid in it's mount.

If the trolley doesn't move even with the door disconnected (be sure it is really disconnected) unlikely force or limit issues are the cause.

With the door disconnected and the chain off...can you move the trolley by hand?

If the motor is starting and putting strong tension on the chain, also unlikely it's the cap.

As I said...normally the trolley will move with the door disconnected and a bad cap as long as there is no weight to be lifted. No guarantee on that though.

If the motor runs in the up and down directions with no chain and stops on it's own...sounds like limits are working as well as RPM sensor.

Logic board would normally cause issues w/o the chain connected as well.


Ohh and one thing I don't think has been fully explored. Is the door easy to lift and close? Shouldn't take much force to do either...and will it stop in the middle of the opening w/o slamming down or shooting up?
 
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Old 06-30-13, 09:15 AM
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Hi Gunguy45

The door is hard to lift. But I can lift it up. I think it is unbalanced. But I disconnected the door and I still see these issues. So I was guessing the root cause is something else ?

You say gear and sprocket...I'm guessing you mean in the powerhead (motor assy)?

[alu2007] Yes the gear and socket at the motor assembly. There were no shavings etc there.

What about the gear at the door side of the rail? The one the chain loops around? Does it wobble? Is it loose or frozen? It should turn easily and be rigid in it's mount.

[alu2007] I took the chain out and I can rotate the door side gear fine. It does not wobble. I also put some WD40 lubricant there. If I put the chain back on, I am not able to rotate it by hand which I assume is ok since you need more power for that.

If the trolley doesn't move even with the door disconnected (be sure it is really disconnected) unlikely force or limit issues are the cause.

[alu2007] The current position of the trolley is like this. The trolley is at end of its travel on the garage door side. The garage door latch to which the red string is attached is positioned in front of the trolley. i.e. it is not directly under the trolley. So I guess this kinda confirms that the garage door is detached from the trolley as it is not hooking into the slot on the trolley

With the door disconnected and the chain off...can you move the trolley by hand?

[alu2007] Yes I can move the trolley with the garage door and chain disconnected.

If the motor is starting and putting strong tension on the chain, also unlikely it's the cap.

[alu2007] Yes this is what it does. THe first time it tries to pull the chain. But the chain tightens on one side and stops. On the second attempt it does nothing and the gdo blinks 5 times because the chain is very tight.

As I said...normally the trolley will move with the door disconnected and a bad cap as long as there is no weight to be lifted. No guarantee on that though.

[alu2007] I believe the garage door is disconnected since I can lift it up. It is probably unbalanced since it is a little heavy to lift. But I was expecting that by disconnecting the garage door, the trolley should move freely

If the motor runs in the up and down directions with no chain and stops on it's own...sounds like limits are working as well as RPM sensor.

[alu2007] yes motor runs fine clockwise and anti clockwise with the chain removed.

Logic board would normally cause issues w/o the chain connected as well.


Ohh and one thing I don't think has been fully explored. Is the door easy to lift and close? Shouldn't take much force to do either...and will it stop in the middle of the opening w/o slamming down or shooting up?

[alu2007] Yes garage door is a little hard to lift and slams down if I position it midway in the garage opening. It is definitely unbalanced. But problem is seen even if I take the garage door out of the equation

Read more: http://www.doityourself.com/forum/ne...#ixzz2XiQcRwNY
 
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Old 06-30-13, 09:48 AM
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Ok...great explanations. Very clear and concise.

Looking at a manual for a Chamberlain chain drive...not sure it's yours...5 flashes says overheated motor. That can be caused by a bad cap.

You really need to get the door balanced before using the opener...even after it's repaired. Could be that the heavy door has fried the cap.

I'd have to say that the cap would be my part of choice for replacement. Since the motor runs and does all it's stuff when it has absolutely no load, it indicates to me that the board, RPM sensor, and limits are ok. Doesn't mean that it might not be the motor itself.

This is an older model with screw adjustments for force and limits, correct? Not the electronic adjustments that some newer units have?

You MAY be able to see a problem with the cap (bulging, leaking) but I know mine has a plastic body..so it doesn't bulge when it fails. Might see some problem with the top...but could be hard to tell w/o a new one to compare to. And they don't always bulge or leak.
 
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Old 06-30-13, 11:59 AM
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Hi Gunguy45

Thanks so much for working with me.

Yes I plan to get the door balanced once I have resolved this problem. The liftmaster 5 flashes indicates an overheated motor or failed RPM sensor.

5 Motor overheated/Possible RPM sensor failure -- unplug to reset

Yes this is an older unit with limit control (up, down) and force control (up, down)

Yes from your last post, I did look at the capacitor visually and did not see any signs of bulging or leaking.

Can I buy this at Radio Shack or should I have to go to a garage door store??

Thanks
 
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Old 06-30-13, 12:04 PM
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Not sure about RS...doubtful. I've bought mine on Amazon since I live in a small town and prices are pretty crazy. Guy wanted to charge me $35 and would have to deliver it. Guess he didn't want me to come to his house. Since he lives way outside of town, would have been 2 days when he made his next trip in. Ordered on Amazon and got it in 3 days for less than 1/2 the price. If you have a place nearby, might be worth an extra $5 or so to buy local.

Still might not be the issue, but makes sense.
 
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Old 06-30-13, 12:50 PM
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OK. I will try to find one soon and post back the results. I saw one on ebay for $18. I will check it out


Thanks again!!
 
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Old 07-19-13, 06:18 PM
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Hi Gunguy45,

I wanted to post back to let you know what the issue was.

The issue with the stuck trolley was because the motor was rotating in the opposite direction and causing the trolley to hit the bolt on the garage door end. I had to remove the chain and let the trolley rotate through once cycle and then put the chain back on to get the trolley in sync.

There was another problem. The limits would keep changing. So each time the door would reverse it would not retract fully. So when you try to close the door it would think it need to travel extra distance on the way down and hit the ground hard and try to reverse. This was caused by a wear out of the bushing on the gear shaft. This was causing the lower gear to make extra turns putting the limits out of whack.

I can try to post photos of the bushing but the photos are too large.

Thanks
 
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Old 01-01-14, 05:21 PM
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The same problem

Hi alu2007,

It is look like I have the same issue with my garage door. But I am not a tech person. I have a hard time to understand how you solved the problem.
I would appreciate if you post some pictures that can help to understand better.

If they are too big I can help you to reduce them: open picture in Paint software, click Resize on the Home panel, then select percentage of reducing.

Thanks,
Juls
 
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