Temporarily fix garage door rot at the bottom of the door


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Old 03-16-14, 07:16 AM
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Temporarily fix garage door rot at the bottom of the door

I am looking to get my garage doors changed in a year or two. One of the doors is rotting but since its an old style door, I will have to change doors on all my garage doors (three) really adding up expenses.

The HOA wants me to fix the door NOW since it shows bad and my house is right on the Cul de Sac and hence shows bad. I am wondering if I could do something like put a ply and paint over it or something so that it hides the rot.

To extend the life of the door for another year or two, Should I paint the inside as well?
 
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Old 03-16-14, 07:30 AM
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Would there be a way for you to post pictures of the damage so we can see what you are seeing?

http://www.doityourself.com/forum/el...-pictures.html
 
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Old 03-16-14, 07:52 AM
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Wooden garage doors should always be sealed on the inside along with the edges, not sure if you'd gain much by doing it this late in the game. It may be feasible to patch the door but we really need to see some pics so we can have a better understanding of what needs to be done.
 
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Old 03-16-14, 09:39 AM
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Thanks. I am attaching the garage door pics to help you help me...
 
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Old 03-16-14, 10:24 AM
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I think that if it was my house, I'd be temped to try and cut out and replace a rectangle-shaped section of the wood, cutting out any soft rotten wood, but at the same time keeping the repair area as small as possible so as to stay away from the mortise and tenon joints. (Repair would e practical assuming this is the only problem with them and the rest of the doors don't seem to have any problems necessitating replacement) If you can make a nice tight repair and then bondo the edges as needed, the repair should practically disappear once it's primed and painted.
 
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Old 03-16-14, 11:10 AM
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I agree with XSleeper. I would take a sharp tool like an awl, or flat blade screwdriver, and start poking holes around the rotted area to establish its boundary. Then I would use a square to draw two perpendicular lines up from the bottom about an inch outside the sound wood determining by poking. Then I'd measure up an equal distance on each vertical line to about an inch above the last poked hole at the top, and draw a horizontal line. I'd cut it out with a jigsaw, and use it to draw an outline on a replacement board. I'd cut about 1/16" outside the drawn line so the replacement is a little big. Then I'd sand it down until it fit snug, and glue with Elmers Prof Wood Glue. After it sets up I would fill in the border with epoxy, then sand, prime, and paint.
 
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Old 03-16-14, 11:14 AM
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Me three
Using an oil base primer will give the new wood and surrounding wood the best protection, latex is fine for the top coat.
 
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Old 03-16-14, 07:32 PM
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Thanks all. Considering my DIY skills thats a lot of work. I think I will screw up somewhere. Can a handyman help out with this if I tell them the instructions...I surely dont want to do all of it
 
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Old 03-16-14, 07:34 PM
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A good handyman won't need any instructions.
 
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Old 03-17-14, 05:04 AM
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Agreed! check around to make sure you get a competent handyman and check his references. If he looks confused when you tell him what needs to be done - find someone else.
 
 

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