I have a screw drive Genie Intellicode II opener that I have an intermittent problem with. At one point it stopped working altogether and I installed a new capacitor of the same value and it worked again except for the intermittent problem.

Sometimes it works fine. If I press the wired pushbutton switch in the garage it will open and if I push it again after it is all the way up it will then go back down. When it is working correctly if I press the indoor wired pushbutton switch right after I have pressed it and it is on it’s way up it will then stop and if I press the button again it will lower.

When I have the intermittent problem if I press the switch to raise it and then press it again to lower it, it doesn’t move. Also, I notice if I try to press the switch as it is on it’s way up it doesn’t stop.

When this happens I pull the cord to release it from the opener and close it. Then I engage the door in the opener mechanism. When I then press the button it will open and may or may not have the intermittent problem.

Any ideas on what to check?

 

It may be as simple as a dirty wall switch. When you unsnap it from the wall, you will see two screw terminals on the back. It's low voltage there so short across them with a screwdriver or similar. If the door works correctly, try cleaning the switch. Mine acted up recently and blowing it out cleared the problem.

 

Thanks for the reply.

I took the switch off and was planning on spraying some contact cleaner on it, but, the spray tip for my contact cleaner was missing. I figured I could get a new switch cheaper than more contact cleaner and did a search to see if the switch was a momentary on/off or a latching switch.

I found it was a momentary on/off and that a regular doorbell switch would work. I also found it mentioned that a lighted doorbell switch wouldn 't work, but, could be made to work by cutting the LED off the circuit board. My switch and the entire door opener system was already installed and working when I bought the house. I saw that it had an LED on it. I tested the resistance with a multimeter and it appeared to be working as it should with no resistance when I pressed the button without the LED removed. Then I got to thinking that I only checked it with the polarity in one direction. When I reversed the leads I saw that the resistance didn't go to zero this way. Then I cut off the LED and tested and it worked in either direction.

I thought I had solved my problem, except that I couldn't explain how it had worked properly earlier. After I hooked it back up the door would open when I pressed the button, but, when I pressed the button again as the door was going up it would not stop going up.

When I get a chance I'll test the wires that go to the switch.

Any more ideas?

 

If your wires are making good contact at both ends, the doorbell switch should be fine. I have two doors and on the far one I have added a doorbell switch so I can open or close that door without going back to the master switch. If your door still fails to function properly, I would then start to question the circuit boards.

 

I think I'll hook a couple jumper wires directly to whichever terminals on the door opener that the switch are wired to. Maybe there is a problem in the wires.

It looks like there are two circuit boards on the opener; a sequencer board and a receiver board. By looking at the location of the terminal strip and the sequencer board on an exploded diagram, and the name, I'd guess that would be the board to replace???