Liftmaster garage door opener/remotes work intermittently

Reply

  #1  
Old 09-21-14, 01:06 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Liftmaster garage door opener/remotes work intermittently

Hi all...

I am new to the forum and no better way to start out than sharing my garage door opener woes.... and by requesting a little friendly advice...

A bit of preliminary info:
-- Opener: Liftmaster 1/3 HP Model 1250LM
-- Remotes: 81LM (I have two of these remotes)
-- The opener and the remotes were manufactured in 1997 (based on tags on the items).
-- The opener is plugged in and has power to it.
-- Both remotes have new batteries installed.


Issue:

When I would leave for work in the morning, I would open the garage door with the wall mounted push button and I would attempt to close the door with the remote… the remote did not work and I’d have to close the door with the wall mounted push button.

When I arrived home in the late afternoon, the remote would open the door but then it would not close the door… I’d have to use the wall mounted push button.

I have tried the remote first thing in the morning and it will open the garage door... but then will not close the garage door?!?

After dealing with this issue now for over a week, it "appears to me" that the remote is only good for a single use within a limited time frame..... if the remote was used or if the wall mounted push button was used, the remote then appears not to work for an unknown amount of time. The wall mounted push button appears to work without issue, all of the time.

I have tried both remotes… same issue with both… and I have installed new batteries in both remotes… same issue. I have held the remote within a few inches of the opener… same issue. And again, the wall mounted push button always seems to work o.k.

As such, I did the following per the user manual:

-- Erased all codes the remote by holding smart button in until the LED (D12) goes out (picture attached).

-- Attempted to “add/reprogram” the remote by holding in remote push button and pressing smart button...… the LED flashes when I hold the remote push button and when I press the smart button, the LED stays on solid for about 1 minute then turns off.… this does not match what the manual states.... manual states "hold remote push button in and then press the smart button... the LED will flash once... then release the remote push button".

Now when I push remote, the LED will come on with the remote push button pushed and garage door still does not open.

After opening the garage door with the wall mounted push button… I then press remote push button and I cannot see the LED turning on when pressing the remote push button?!

On a side note, I also have noticed an area of melted plastic near the bulb located on the side opposite of the smart button (picture attached). The melted area is very close to the bulb so I do not know if it was due to the bulb itself or something else. This bulb was newly replaced but is only turning on intermittently.

Could the issue be with the receiver/logic board?? Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated…… or is there more information I can provide?

Thank you in advance….
 
Attached Images   
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 09-21-14, 08:12 PM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2003
Location: NC, USA
Posts: 20,787
Received 187 Votes on 174 Posts
Are the battery contacts inside the remotes clean, shiny and free of corrosion?
 
  #3  
Old 09-21-14, 09:21 PM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Hamilton County, Ohio
Posts: 4,296
Received 2 Votes on 2 Posts
Lets try a slightly different method than I think that you are using. First, press and release the smart button. The LED should light. Then press and hold the button on the remote until the LED goes off. Then release the remote button and push it again. The door should operate.
 
  #4  
Old 09-22-14, 03:21 AM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
Sounds like it could be radio interference... what kind of bulbs are you using now? any LED or CFL bulbs on in the garage?
 
  #5  
Old 09-22-14, 04:50 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 7,294
Received 60 Votes on 57 Posts
I'd be concerned about that melted plastic. What caused it and did it affect the circuit board.
 
  #6  
Old 09-22-14, 06:10 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I have checked the battery contacts.... looks clean and free of corrosion.

I have tried the new method of setting the remote.... after doing so, the LED on the remote and the LED on the opener both turn on when I press the button on the remote... but the garage door does not open.

The original bulbs had been in there for 1+ years prior to the issue starting... I have recently replaced both bulbs with a standard GE "Rough Service 60 (watt)" bulbs... box saying it is for "garage door openers."

I am unsure as to what caused the melted plastic... location suggests to me heat from the bulb but....?!?

Thanks for the replies...
 
  #7  
Old 09-28-14, 09:25 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,947
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi gpenn –

I’m no expert and I don’t know if this will help, but I installed 2 Craftsman openers in my house (I replaced a single 1960’s opener that opened both doors at the same time). I subsequently had a problem very similar to yours.

After about 2-3 years I had a problem with one opener in which the hand-held remotes and the outside door mounted remote, would work sporadically. The inside wall mounted hard wired (i.e., non RF) control always worked. I was going crazy. It seemed like it might have been a problem with the antenna connection on the circuit board and I played with that and it seemed to help. But I think that was just a coincidence. Problem wouldn’t go away.

Since I had 2 identical openers I finally switched the circuit boards and lo and behold the problem moved with the circuit board. So I bought a new board and problem solved – but I think the board was almost half the cost of a new opener.

I guess chasing down these RF problems is not easy, and like the other guys are pointing out interference could be a problem. Seems difficult to me to chase these down. Hope it’s not the receiver board because those seem pretty expensive.

Good luck!
 
  #8  
Old 10-02-14, 08:37 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Sep 2014
Location: USA
Posts: 3
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hey zoesdad.... thanks for your input......


Follow-up to my issue:

I "bit the bullet" and had a service guy take a look at it via my home warranty service...

The problem ended up being the circuit board which was covered by my home warranty at a replacement cost of $95 (I may have gotten it cheaper elsewhere?!?) I also had the service guy adj./align the door/springs and replace all the rollers as it seemed the door needed these extra services....... which, were not covered by my home warranty.... grrrr!!!

As such all is well now!!
 
  #9  
Old 10-04-14, 09:21 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,947
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Hi gpenn –

Just saw your post (I’m slow lol). $95 seems like a pretty good price. But you got me thinking and I did a search for Liftmaster and got this:

Liftmaster circuit boards

So those seem a little cheaper but seems to me $95 is not that bad. Glad your home warranty helped. I’m thinking I should have done a web search and not just ordered my replacement board from sears parts. Next time lol.

That’s good you got the adjustments and rollers. If you have extensions springs that hang above the door and stretch out when the door closed, you can actually replace those yourself if need be. The rollers also aren’t hard to replace either if you so desired.

If you do have extension springs I would make sure that a safety cable is installed through the spring. I know sometimes installers leave those out (my sister’s case).

It’s just a steel cable that is run through the center of the spring down the entire length and each end is fastened to the angle iron or track. So if the spring breaks it can’t fly off. My spring broke and put a dent in the garage ceiling but the safety cable prevented it from flying off. (That dent could have been in my head. lol) The safety cables are cheap and easy to install, you can get them at Home Depot. etc.

If you don’t have extension springs but torsion springs I think there is some kind of similar safety mechanism to protect against a spring break.

Just mentioning that because I can certainly see how a broken spring can cause serious injury and I’ve seen cases where they are missing – and they are really cheap and easy to install. (Shame on the installer, lol)

Good luck – sounds like you are in good shape.
 
  #10  
Old 10-04-14, 10:36 AM
Norm201's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Sep 2013
Location: United States
Posts: 7,294
Received 60 Votes on 57 Posts
It’s just a steel cable that is run through the center of the spring down the entire length and each end is fastened to the angle iron or track. So if the spring breaks it can’t fly off. My spring broke and put a dent in the garage ceiling but the safety cable prevented it from flying off. (That dent could have been in my head. lol) The safety cables are cheap and easy to install, you can get them at Home Depot. etc.

If you don’t have extension springs but torsion springs I think there is some kind of similar safety mechanism to protect against a spring break.

Just mentioning that because I can certainly see how a broken spring can cause serious injury and I’ve seen cases where they are missing – and they are really cheap and easy to install. (Shame on the installer, lol)
I believe that safety cable is an industry standard and possibly a law in all 50 states.
 
  #11  
Old 10-13-14, 06:55 AM
Member
Join Date: Sep 2009
Location: Michigan
Posts: 1
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
Looks like the char is under the sticker??
Woodyone
 
  #12  
Old 10-13-14, 09:20 AM
Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Southeastern Pennsylvania
Posts: 2,947
Received 0 Votes on 0 Posts
I believe that safety cable is an industry standard and possibly a law in all 50 states.
Just saw the above. That makes eminent sense and I would think is a great law. My doors weigh 180 lbs each (I weighed them) and the springs are really big suckers that could take your head off. lol
 
  #13  
Old 08-18-15, 12:54 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2013
Location: usa
Posts: 25
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
Same problem with my Liftmaster

I reported my same issue to Liftmaster tech support and they ran me through a few tests to perform on the opener. Their conclusion was that RFI (Radio Frequency Interference) was causing my intermittent door operation and replacing the control logic board would not solve the problem. I guess I'll just have to suck it up.
 
  #14  
Old 08-19-15, 03:29 AM
Doorman2722's Avatar
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 863
Received 9 Votes on 9 Posts
Try a 888LM wall control and new remote... transmits on 3 frequency's works to cut through interference...has option to work with a smart phone. wont work with old openers with green smart button or dip switches
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description: