Garage man-door due diligence questions


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Old 11-30-16, 04:54 AM
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Garage man-door due diligence questions

My home was built in 1924. This old door is currently the man-door on our detached garage and other than the garage door itself (which currently doesn't have an opener with a battery back-up) is the only way in to the garage. The door does not have a functioning knob, and is secured by the hook-and-eye method from the inside. Needless to say, it's time to be replaced. I checked how level the concrete sill is, and to my surprise, it's almost perfect. Same for the sides. The rough opening is 33 5/8" wide by 82" high, so I think I have enough shim space for a 32 inch steel prehung door.

My question is, if I get a prehung unit, do I need to prep the concrete or do I just plop the whole unit into place, right on top of the concrete. See pics. Thanks
 
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Old 11-30-16, 05:16 AM
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Your rough opening is likely a little too tight. You may need to remove a 2x4 here or there are replace it with a 1x4, or maybe a 2x4 that you have ripped down to 1 1/8" or 1 1/4". You almost always need the room to tweak and shim the door.

You will look at the bottom sill on your new prehung and determine where you need to caulk... sill have hollow areas and you don't want to caulk the concrete where it is hollow. But you put a heavy bead of sealant on the concrete, then you set the door in the opening. Prehungs also come with brickmould attached, on a 32" door the outside trim will be 36" wide so check your trim and see how much room you have for brickmould. If it isn't close, you might as well pop it off and use something else.
 
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Old 11-30-16, 06:36 AM
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Thanks, so basically where the metal on the prehung threshold meets the concrete is where I caulk?

What if I need to make slight adjustments to the sill level. Any suggestions for a shim idea that would be OK to use between concrete and the metal threshold in an exterior environment?

Good point about the brick mold. The current old stuff looks wide but I didnt measure it. Assuming the brick mold on the new prehung is to narrow to cover this space, I was also thinking of simply ripping a piece of 3/4" to whatever remaining width I need. Would rather have the correct width of brick mold if it's available, but just in case, that's my backup plan.
 
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Old 11-30-16, 07:13 AM
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My biggest concern is that stoop being level with the threshold.
That's going to cause water to get under the sill, and cause the brick molding and bottom of the jambs to rot out far faster, unless you used PVC brick molding and bought the newer style door with composite lumber used at the bottom of the jambs.
I've had to replace dozens of doors because of damage from this one issue.
Keep in mind that door and trim only comes primed and will need to be painted with 2 coats of latex ASAP.
No dark colors!
 
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Old 11-30-16, 07:46 AM
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It does grade down. If you look at the pic showing it from outside, it's hard to see but it does taper.

What is the importance of not painting with dark color if the trim is primed?
 
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Old 11-30-16, 08:45 AM
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No, you dont want to caulk the front of the sill that would trap water... you will understand when you look at the bottom of the door. Its more in the middle where you will caulk... then you set the door on the bead of sealant.

If you do need to shim, use "composite" shims.
 
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Old 11-30-16, 09:08 AM
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What is the importance of not painting with dark color if the trim is primed?
Many metal doors have a real thin sheet of steel and since dark colors will absorb more heat, the expansion/contraction can make the paint peel or even warp the door. Shouldn't make any difference on the trim unless it's plastic/pvc.
 
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Old 11-30-16, 09:26 AM
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Thanks understand completely now regarding painting metal skin with dark colors..probably why most of the garage doors that are metal are white, and if they are dark, they are wood.
 
 

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