Garage Door Height

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Old 04-08-17, 06:30 PM
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Garage Door Height

I'm having a 7' tall by 8' wide garage door installed on my new garage addition and was wondering if it's possible to extend the tracks so that when the door is open, it will be at a height of 9' instead of 8'. Seems like I could simply buy a track meant for an 8' tall door. Would this work? The garage will have a 10' ceiling.
 
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Old 04-08-17, 07:29 PM
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Will you have an electric opener? If you used 8 foot door track, the door would have to move vertically 1 foot before starting to move away from the wall. I think he geometry of the opener would be all wrong as the opener moves the door away from the wall right away, and because of the shape of the tracks, it also moves up. It might work, but I'm betting not.

If it did work, you would also need a longer opener shaft (one for an 8 foot door) as you need to move the door an extra foot.

If you won't have an opener, I think it would probably work. Assuming torsion springs, you might need bigger cable reels, as you have an extra foot of cable to wind.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 04:31 AM
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Thanks for the reply. Regarding the opener, how would it know the difference between a 7' door and an 8' door? It just turns until you tell it to stop right? For example, couldn't I remove the bottom panel from my neighbor's 8' door and simply adjust the travel on the opener so that it turns another foot? It would still open and close just fine wouldn't it? BTW, no torsion springs on the door.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 04:46 AM
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This looks like a 7' door with open height of 9'...

https://www.google.com/search?q=Jack...v6joobCLA5KkM:

Also found this low headroom conversion kit that reduces the required overhead height to 4.5". I'd probably be okay with 8'-6".
 
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Old 04-09-17, 05:23 AM
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If you used a jack shaft opener like the one in your link, that should work because it lifts the door from the bottom. My comments assumed the more common rail type opener. On the rail style, the door is lifted from the top and the top edge of the door has to move away from the wall quickly or I think the opener would jam.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 12:54 PM
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I think I see what you are saying...the arm that lifts the door (fixed to the top panel) would be at too much of an angle such that the opener would be pulling back on it and it would jam. I thought you were referring to some issue with the tracks. The length of the track shouldn't make a difference. If I need to go with a jack style opener, then that's what I'll do. I guess I could've just purchased an 8' tall door and the top panel just wouldn't be exposed to the exterior. It would simply be for the opener to attach to. Could I purchase an extra panel separately and add it on the top? If it isn't clear, I already have the door, which was a special order, so returning it isn't a viable option.
 
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Old 04-09-17, 04:13 PM
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It won't just jam. If the UP Force is set too high it would rip the opener arm right out of the door and probably bend the upper panel.

About the extra panel, you could probably do that as well as ordering 8' high track sections, but that's gonna cost a ton. More than a jackshaft opener would cost.

Why would you be thinking a low headroom kit? That actually drops the door lower IIRC, to account for low ceilings.

Your best bet would be to contact a local company that sells your brand door and just tell them what you are trying to accomplish
 
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Old 04-09-17, 05:17 PM
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I was under the impression that the low headroom kit allowed you to install the door closer to the ceiling, thus increasing the height. Not the case?
 
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Old 04-09-17, 08:03 PM
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If you have a low ceiling you can install a low headroom kit, quick turn brackets, etc so the door doesn't hit the ceiling as it's coming up and there is room for all the track brackets and such. It doesn't actually allow closer mounting unless the ceiling is low. You have the opposite problem, the ceiling is higher than normal. You want to raise the height of the open door.

The only way to do that AFAIK is to raise the horizontal tracks, which will require longer vertical tracks. And as stated before, you'll probably need a jackshaft opener.

You really need to talk to a local company that is familiar with your door brand. Not some repair guy that operates out of his garage. An actual dealer, not a big box.

Depending on the brand, you might be able to talk with a tech or engineer at the company who can help you out. Since you're in VA I'd guess you might have a Clopay or a Wayne Dalton? Possibly an Overhead Door? I've dealt with the first 2 and Clopay was headquartered in my hometown so I may have gotten special treatment as a homeboy, free advice, free parts and free shipping and it wasn't even MY door! W-D wasn't quite as helpful, but still better than many companies. OD doesn't even like talking to consumers, from what I understand and refer you to a repair service.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 10:21 AM
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It's a Clopay door that I ordered through home depot.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 11:48 AM
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I'd call or email them. They will give you the best info. Not all HD associates are as good as I was...lol. If you call just be friendly with the person, maybe ask about Troy (if they are still located there, has the weather been nice, are they looking forward to the Strawberry Festival in June, how a friend just sang the praises of the area, etc). If they are still there, these are Mid-westerners and will bend over backwards to help if they think of you more than just a voice on the phone. It's probably one of the major employers along with Hobart/Homart, Honda and some others.

Oh, and did Clopay deliver your door or did you pick it up? Either way, you should open it and inspect the panels. We had a rash of damaged doors and it was due to the way the driver was pulling them off the truck. Kinda hard for one person to handle and he kept denting the edges.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 03:18 PM
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It was delivered by someone in an unmarked pickup truck. A contracted HD installer I presume. The boxes look to be in good shape.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 05:51 PM
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Unless it was to be installed by HD, it probably wasn't delivered by them. IIRC if a customer had a custom door just delivered, it went to the local Clopay certified installation company for delivery.

Our boxes looked good to, until they were unwrapped. That's when the creases (not visible on the wrapping) were discovered. I'm just saying, you don't want to find them damaged when it's time to put them up. Of course, if you don't have a safe place to store them where they WON'T be damaged, maybe better to leave as is.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 07:41 PM
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Correct. That's what I was tying to say--a company that HD uses for their clopay installations, presumably a certified clopay installer.

The door is sitting in the boxes in my basement, so they are out of harm's way. I'll open them up and check them out.
 
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Old 04-10-17, 11:53 PM
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Well, it works differently for garage doors as opposed to say, storm doors, french doors, or garage door openers. HD doesn't get a cut (at least they didn't used to) from garage door installs. They are just acting as an agent for Clopay and got a percentage of the door price. The installers have a contract with Clopay who pays them for the install. If we ordered a door with install, it shipped directly to the company that was doing the work. They didn't get the same as a customer installed door. For homeowner install we would normally get them to buy the EZ Wind springs that didn't require winding bars. They also got 2 piece tracks that bolted together, where a Pro would get 1 piece tracks riveted together where they met. We never sold off the rack doors and a separate install. Heck, my local store doesn't even STOCK garage doors.

With most items (not furnaces, or AC or other big products) they ship to the store and the installer pics them up. There is a rotating pool of installers that are managed by the District office. They aren't certified anything. They just have to apply to be an installer, provide insurance, license, that sort of stuff and they are put in the pool...maybe. I guess they have to provide references and such as well.

Storm doors used to pay $85 to them, but the store charged $109 I believe. All well and good until they had to do an old house with rotted trim or out of square frames. They just had to eat that, though we would often give them material at no charge. Other doors required a pre-install visit and the installer sent a work order for any additional work required. It was tough getting customers to understand why an advertised $350 install ballooned to $500 just because their house was falling apart or they didn't want to order a custom door that fit correctly.

Well, that's enough about the good old days when I worked for a living, but hey, the more you know, right?
 
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Old 04-12-17, 06:39 AM
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Can a Jackshaft opener be used with a door that doesn't use a torsion bar?
 
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Old 04-12-17, 01:17 PM
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I'll answer my own question, yes, it needs to be a torsion spring style door. Guess I'll be ordering a conversion kit for $100.
 
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Old 04-12-17, 08:09 PM
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I spoke with Clopay, and they recommended I return the door and get the correct one configured the way I want, so that's what I did. I didn't think HD would accept the return, but they made an exception. I will be getting the same style door, only this time with torsion springs and a "follow the roof" track. My garage ceiling will be vaulted so it will be nice to have the door rise at an angle to maximize headroom and make the garage feel more spacious.
 
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Old 04-12-17, 08:58 PM
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Ta Da! We have a winner! Was Clopay as helpful as I hoped? If so, and you have any names of anyone, you should send a quick note of appreciation.

I never even heard of a "follow the roof" track. Hmmm, guess I have some researching to do.
 
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Old 04-12-17, 09:09 PM
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I guess I have this problem too and didnt realize it until I read this thread. I just moved into a new house and have my opener half installed. After reading this thread I realize that it wont work. My door is 7' high but it rides on a track that is 9' high at the horizontal section. The J shaped bar that connects the opener rail/carriage assembly to the door is not long enough. I thought the solution was just to extend that bar with some angle iron. I think I realize now that that will likely damage the door. Guess I will take that opener down and shop for a jack shaft style - which I never knew existed.
 
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Old 04-12-17, 11:37 PM
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I don't want to move this, so I'll give you the same advice. Call the opener manufacturer first, they may have a simple solution. Mossmans was a bit of a different situation.
 
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Old 04-13-17, 12:18 PM
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FYI, high-lift follow the roof track (for residential and commercial):

http://cdn.clopay.com/public/Follow_The_Roof.pdf
 
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Old 04-15-17, 07:47 PM
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Dunno if this applies to your situation but this worked on my 7ft door in a 9 ft track. The track starts to angle away from the door before it makes the 90 degree turn. Also I had to fabricate an extension to the bar that connects my door to the carriage on the opener. Good luck.
 
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Old 04-17-17, 01:10 PM
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Thanks for the pics. I've got a couple options to consider.
 
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