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# How can I adjust an extension spring single car garage door to prevent binding?

#1
10-04-17, 07:32 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: IN
Posts: 59
How can I adjust an extension spring single car garage door to prevent binding?

I have an extension spring overhead single car garage door with no garage door opener. The door catches when I try to open it and I have to pull it toward the west side before lifting it to get it to open. I want to install a garage door opener but I think I have to resolve the opening issues before installation.
The distance between the sides of the garage door opening is 105 inches at the floor and 105-3/8 inches at the top.
The outside dimension on the door track is 1 inch.
When the door is closed, I have marked the edge of the door on the wall and measured the distance from that line to the edge of the garage door opening and to the brackets that hold the door track.
1) East side of the door the distance from door opening to the door edge
a) Top bracket =7/8 inches
b) Middle bracket = 7/8 inches
c) Lower bracket = 7/8 inches
2) East side of the door the distance from track bracket to the door edge
a) Top bracket =7/8 inches
b) Middle bracket = 1-1/16 inches
c) Lower bracket = 1-3/8 inches
3) West side of the door the distance from the door opening to the door edge
a) Top bracket =7/8 inches
b) Middle bracket = 1-3/16 inches
c) Lower bracket = 1-1/4 inches
4) West side of the door the distance from the track bracket to the door edge
a) Top bracket =1-3/4 inches
b) Middle bracket = 1-7/8 inches
c) Lower bracket = 1-7/8 inches
5) Plumb
a) The door tracks are 3/16 inches out of plumb in 2 feet on the east track and the west track.
6) How can I adjust this door to get it to run smoothly before installing the Genie screw-drive door opener?

#2
10-04-17, 08:45 PM
Group Moderator
Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 54,616
What is this.....a dimensions novel ?

You need to determine what exactly is binding. Run the door slowly until it gets caught. Look where the rollers are. Usually it's a roller getting caught where the two tracks connect.

You're right.... the door MUST operate smoothly before installing an opener. If it gets caught with the opener it will be destroyed.

I had an older door that was getting caught. I replaced all the rollers. It's like a new door.

You could post a few pics for us to look at. Many times we can see problem areas that way. how-insert-pictures.html

#3
10-05-17, 04:20 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2005
Location: upstate NY
Posts: 887
It could be one or more of the four pulleys, they are notorious for wearing out up front and causing drag... this will make the door shift to one side

#4
10-06-17, 07:12 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: IN
Posts: 59
Pete: I have lubricated all the rollers and roller shafts with lithium spray grease. The door moves much, much easier. However the door still binds unpredictably on the East side. The door is hitting the East vertical track, hitting the East horizon track and binding. The distance from the top rail-bracket to the door edge on the West side is 1-3/4 inches. On the East side the distance from the top track-bracket to the door edge is 3/4 inches. There are brass shims on the roller shafts between the roller bracket and the roller. This pushes the door away from the track. One shim on each shaft. Should I add one more shim on the top roller shaft to keep the door away from the track or should I move the East track further away from the door? I will measure to see if the horizontal part of the tracks are parallel to each other. Am I headed in the correct direction or do I need a course correction? Advise. Thanks

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#5
10-06-17, 08:20 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 54,616
Springs can wear out un-evenly.
A weak spring on one side will cause the door to close uneven like that.

#6
10-07-17, 06:20 AM
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Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Northern Minnesota
Posts: 1,652
Received 1 Vote on 1 Post
A weak spring on one side will cause the door to close uneven like that.
Exactly. And if one breaks replace them both at the same time.

When I adjust mine I always measure along the track that they are the same tightness.

#7
10-09-17, 07:14 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: IN
Posts: 59
There was only 1/4" difference between the east and west spring lengths. When the springs are stretched, the west spring was 67-7/8 inches and the east was 67-5/8 inches. I tightened the west spring by threading the nut on the hook connecting on the spring to the south bracket by 1/4 inch. Then I moved the door through several open and closing cycles. This adjustment pulled the door away from the east track by about 1/4 inch when the door is down. Since the springs are about the same length and the door needs to move further away from the east track, should I tighten the west spring more or do the springs need to be replaced?

#8
11-26-18, 06:26 PM
Member
Join Date: May 2006
Location: IN
Posts: 59
I learned that another local-company's parent-company owned the Genie-brand. I called that local-company and they agreed to look at my Genie opener and the condition of my overhead door. The installation crew stopped by when in the neighborhood. The crew looked at my door: told me it was A-ok. The crew looked at the used Genie -opener: told me it was A-ok. The crew drove away 1-1/2 hours later with my check in payment. The door works great. The opener works great. The crew exceeded all my expectations. Later I realized that I could use my vehicle-based opener switch inside my Toyota's mirror system. After some failed attempts using the Toyota user's manual and the Genie manual, I called Genie help line. The Genie customer service people helped me program my vehicle-based opener and I put the genie-supplied-push-buttons in storage. A good experience. Follow Sir Winston Churchill's advice, "Never give up".

#9
11-26-18, 09:13 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2012
Location: Northern NJ - USA
Posts: 54,616
Thanks for letting us know how you made out and good luck.
Keep an eye out for anything binding.

#10
12-14-18, 09:50 AM
Member
Join Date: Dec 2018
Posts: 2
Extension springs are trouble

In one of your pictures I noticed you have a fair amount of headroom. That’s the distance between the tom of the door and ceiling.
Honestly, I would do a Torsion conversion. May be more money than you want to spend on it but they run a lot smoother.

As as far as the tracks, you want the tracks tight to the door at the bottom with no wiggle room. As the doo goes up you install the tracks out of plumb on purpose to allow the door to have room to move side to side. Maybe 1/4” from bottom to top on each side. This lets the door run very nicely but also forces it to center when closed.
A door must be installed level, no matter what the floor looks like. And same with the tracks. I like to set the bottom panel, and lag the tracks after, I hold them up 1” off the floor to limit rust from attacking the vertical tracks.

Id be happy to walk you through any issues as I am a garage door installer.

Last edited by PJmax; 12-14-18 at 10:23 AM. Reason: removed link

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