Sectional door, what am I hearing??

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Old 04-25-18, 09:37 PM
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Sectional door, what am I hearing??

Typical double car sectional door, original 1985, with 8 year old Craftsman chain drive opener, was serviced about 6 years ago to replace broken torsion springs and had new rollers installed also at that time.

Over the last 6 months I've noticed a sound become progressively louder, particularly when closing. It can be heard well above the motor noise. It comes from near the right side cable drum. I've watched it closely and can see no unusual movement, nothing obviously loose. It sounds like: Click-CLACK.........Click-CLACK.......etc, with each Click-CLACK seeming to coincide with each revolution of the drum. The only thing I can think of is a worn bearing race on that end of the shaft, perhaps a broken/missing ball. Any ideas?

Next question, if it IS a worn out bearing, does replacement require unloading the springs?

Thank You.
 
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Old 04-26-18, 03:27 AM
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It sounds like a bad bearing, you can try squirting some oil in there, check and see if the bearing race is turning with the torsion tube. Yes you need to unwind the springs to replace on most models. I have done some with the door up...there is very little tension on the springs with the door open. can you post a picture
 
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Old 04-26-18, 08:05 PM
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Thanks for responding Doorman...2 photos to send but can't remember how to post them...they're in "My Pictures" folder on Windows 10 . Can't find instructions.
 
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Old 04-26-18, 08:12 PM
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How to insert pictures. (updated instructions)
 
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Old 04-28-18, 08:50 PM
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Thank you XSleeper. Name:  IMG_2010.jpg
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Old 04-28-18, 08:54 PM
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Other side of drum here. Name:  IMG_2011.jpg
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Old 04-29-18, 04:28 AM
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That style can be changed with the door clamped in the open position. Remove the lag and unbolt. There will be some tension on it, so be prepared the tube may move a bit and you may have to wrestle it back together, also watch the cable can easily come off. You can backwind the tube a bit on the other side of the door with a pair of vice grips to relieve the tension to make it easier if need be. Then remove the old bearing from the head plate, I usually beat it out with a hammer... here is the hard part, getting the new bearing back in the head plate with out damaging it unless you have a bearing press.
 
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Old 04-30-18, 09:51 AM
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So the tight fit will be the bearing into the head plate? (It looks like there is a tab of sorts on the bearing that might fit into a slot in the plate, ie., "keyed" so as not to turn). What about the tightness of the bearing around the tube? Will it slide off easily? (tube is rusty but I can work it with some emory cloth). Next question: Since I don't see a brand name on the door anywhere, what specification do I use to order the new bearing? And finally, are these bearings usually replaced in pairs?
 
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Old 04-30-18, 02:41 PM
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I've never seen a garage door bearing indexed to fit into the head plate, the Bearing should slide right off the tube but you may have to clean up the rust a bit. You could just buy these https://www.amazon.com/Garage-Bearin...ential+bracket
 
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Old 04-30-18, 07:56 PM
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Well shoot, that's the way to go....thanks very much, Doorman!!
 
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Old 05-03-18, 05:14 PM
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Just for the heck of it, I squirted some light oil into the bearing, (Doorman's original advice), not expecting much, as a loud "click-clack" would seem to indicate something broken or worn out, but I'll be doggone if it's completely quieted the noise.....seems I've bought some time.

Thank you, gentlemen!
 
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Old 05-04-18, 04:16 AM
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Usually the opposite happens... the bearing is making no noise, I lube it as part of the door service and then it starts clicking. I've had this happen several times.
 
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