Lower part of shed is beginning to rot options?

Reply

  #1  
Old 06-10-18, 05:09 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: usa
Posts: 105
Lower part of shed is beginning to rot options?

I have a shed that is going on 24 yrs built by a local company after we picked the design. I try to maintain it by painting and replacing rotted wood (door trim).

I recently got a new roof added 3 yrs ago thanks to my brother-in-law. He said the original never had tar paper. Luckily, there was no damage to the wood on the roof.

In any case, the attached pics show the issue. On the bottom, the wood is beginning to rot. I have been trying to patch and paint but this is happening in each section. I think it is from water coming down off the roof and splashing up under and on the lower part.

I am planning on putting gutters on so the water is channeled away from coming down the sides.

Instead of replacing all the wood panel sections, since most of the middle and upper parts of the shed are ok, I was wondering if there is something cheaper than replacing several sections of what I think is some type of T1-11?

I would like something that is about a 12 inches high that could be cut and place over the lower part where the wood is beginning to rot.

thanks
 
Attached Images   
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 06-11-18, 02:23 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 44,042
Siding close to the ground like that is always subject to failure. Gutters may help but there is also rain splashing up from the ground and snow [if you have it]

I'd cut off the bottom portion of siding, install flashing and a 1x4, 1x6 [whatever size is needed] either using pressure treated or plastic/vinyl.
 
  #3  
Old 06-11-18, 05:08 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: usa
Posts: 105
I am not sure how to "cut off the bottom portion of siding" the entire length of the shed?

Flashing - what type would be good and how is it installed ?

I looked at Home depot and Lowes web site,,i don't see gray 1x6 vinyl.

If pressure treated wood is used, I would need gray stain?

thanks
 
  #4  
Old 06-12-18, 03:04 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 44,042
I think it's called PVC trim you'd have to paint it to match.
You use Z flashing, it goes under the siding, juts out 3/4" and then down a little on the wood strip below.
Take a skil saw with the blade set to the depth of the siding to make your cuts. Tacking a straight board above the cut as a guide will help you keep the cut straight.
 
  #5  
Old 06-27-18, 05:55 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: usa
Posts: 105
Ok,

PVC -> like this?
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Veranda-...RWS4/100290245


You mean a circular saw ?

That seems like it may be tough hold it at that angle and cut...

There is not a lot of room under the outside panels, in some areas no sapce for the below to slide under

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Amerimax...0120/100087282
 
  #6  
Old 06-30-18, 02:37 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 44,042
If you screw a straight edge to the siding at the appropriate point you can use it for guide/fence so you can cut a straight line.

This is the type of flashing you'd use - https://www.lowes.com/pd/Union-Corru...ashing/3499684
 
  #7  
Old 08-17-18, 07:26 AM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: usa
Posts: 105
I am going to look at the PVC, although it is more money than i expected. My brother -in-law is coming down to help.

To cut the lower 5 - 6in off the t1-11, is it necessary to remove the edge/corner trim boards as seen in the picture? They are not the same type of trim that is on the doors

They are are on tight and have not rotted and if i remove them, i am wondering if it may break, i won't be able to find a replacement
 
Attached Images  
  #8  
Old 08-17-18, 08:21 AM
Member
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: usa
Posts: 637
Stanj, you are right. Nothing is simple in DIY world and the least expensive solutions always seem to be the hardest to accomplish. Offer some things to consider. Can you get replacement T1-11with the same groove spacing as existing? If you don't remove the trim at the door and corners. you will have 3 edges to seal instead of 1 (it appears the corner trim was nailed into a 90 degrees before installing so removal is impossible without ruining one of the boards). Also, if the shed studs are more than 16 inches apart, I would install bridging between studs at the cut line for nailing to prevent the 2 pieces from moving in opposite directions between the studs. Make sure to use the Z flashing along the cut line. Good luck.
 
  #9  
Old 08-17-18, 09:11 AM
Forum Topic Moderator
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: USA
Posts: 44,042
i... the edge/corner trim boards as seen in the picture? They are not the same type of trim that is on the doors

They are are on tight and have not rotted and if i remove them, i am wondering if it may break, i won't be able to find a replacement
Those look to be common 1x3s or 1x4s
 
  #10  
Old 08-17-18, 05:53 PM
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Dec 2011
Location: usa
Posts: 105
i am wondering why the edge trim never rotted and the white trim on the doors does rot
 
  #11  
Old 08-17-18, 06:59 PM
XSleeper's Avatar
Group Moderator
Join Date: Dec 2004
Location: USA
Posts: 20,698
Your corner trim might be Miratec. They might have replaced the wood already.
 
Reply

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
Display Modes