Replace overhead garage door header -- DIY or Hire?

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Old 07-18-19, 07:41 AM
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Replace overhead garage door header -- DIY or Hire?

Hello,

I started removing the cedar shakes and the Homosote-like backer board above my overhead garage door. Once it was exposed, I could see that there was a little bit of ant tunneling in the sheathing. It didn't seem so bad, so I debated as to whether or not I was going to replace the old wafer board sheathing. There was no ant activity, so I figured that the Tero bait I set out a couple of years ago got rid of all of them. I gave in though and decided to replace the sheathing and look what was underneath (see attached image)! Ants have destroyed the double 2x12 that is used as the header for my garage door!
They ate all the way through one of the 2x12's and through the 1/2" wafer board spacer and well into the second 2x12. The header is over the 16' wide, wooden, garage door.

The question is; should I do this myself (with help for some of it) or hire out all or part of it?

The part I am most apprehensive about is uninstalling the garage door opener. I'm resigned to paying for a garage door company to re-install the garage door, but I hate to pay for them to come out twice (once for the uni
nstall and once for the install).
To keep the garage from collapsing while I replace the header, I plan to use long 2x4's, at an angle, from the surface of the driveway to the double 2x4 top-plate over the garage door header. Is that a reasonable way to handle it?

Also, what kind of glue should I use when laminating the lumber to construct the header? I'm thinking that Titebond might be too brittle for this application.

Thanks in advance.
 
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Old 07-18-19, 08:34 AM
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That's something, would make me wonder what else they got into!

Anyway, how long are the 2x12's?

What is above, just the roof or second story?
 
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Old 07-18-19, 09:45 AM
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@Marq1, I wonder what you're wondering too. I've resheathed and re-sided pretty much the whole house now, so I think that the house itself is clear of ants. I'm just getting at the garage and am hoping that the damage to the header is the last of it. I'm not betting my life on it though. There are a lot of trees in my neighborhood.

The 2x12's are about 17' long (around a foot longer than the 16' door).

There is no 2nd story. The garage is constructed with 2x4 trusses to support the roof. The gable ends of the roof are on the North and South facing sides of the garage. The garage door opening with the damaged header that we're talking about is on the West facing side.

HTH
 
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Old 07-18-19, 10:07 AM
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It sounds like you are capable of replacing the header yourself. I would build a temporary wall a foot away to support the roof while you work. The temporary wall should be very snug so it is carrying the weight of the roof. Getting it to carry the weight is easy if you just build the wall then use tapered shims. You can hammer them in to gradually make your temporary wall taller and take up the weight of the roof. Remove the damaged header and replace with new wood. The temporary wall is also good because it gives you time. If you find more damaged wood you already have the roof supported so you can replace studs or anything else that needs replacing.
 
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Old 07-18-19, 10:57 AM
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Thanks @Pilot Dane, I like your suggestion of building a temporary wall. The thing about that, however, is that I'd need to build it, as you said, around a foot inside the garage. That would put the top plate of my temporary wall directly under the trusses. The trusses, pretty much, sit on top of the top plate above the garage door, so, when I drove wedges between the top of my temporary wall and the bottom of the trusses, I think I'd only accomplish separating the bottom of the trusses from the top plate above the header.
 
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Old 07-18-19, 11:46 AM
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You are correct and that is what you want to do. You are removing the weight of the roof from the wall. Then you are free to cut out the header or replace joists since that wall is no longer load bearing.
 
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Old 07-18-19, 12:20 PM
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OK. Thanks @Pilot Dane. That make sense.

Any thoughts on dismantling the garage door opening mechanics? Those big ole springs are under a lot of tension, so disarming them could be nerve-racking.
 
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Old 07-19-19, 08:57 AM
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You work with the springs with the door in the up position. There should be no tension on the springs. Working with a 2x12 17 feet long is not a 1 person task. Your posts indicate a lack of experience, In my opinion, I would hire someone to do it unless I have a friend with experience who would help me. Good luck.
 
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Old 07-19-19, 09:11 AM
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should I do this myself (with help for some of it) or hire out all or part of it?
So only you can answer this, it sounds like you've been doing some other work and this is a doable task but as noted some help to get all them up and in place, it's not a one man task.

And, the nice thing you have is a perfect example sitting right in front of you to study to understand what the finished product will look like!
 
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Old 07-20-19, 08:31 AM
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Thanks @beelzebob, I am experienced enough to know that, with the door up, I would need to crawl between the door and the trusses to release the tension on the torsion springs So, I think I'll leave the door down for that piece of it.
From the start, I stated that I'd need help, so I am planning on at least two others to lift the 2x12's into place.

Thanks @Marq1. I do have an example sitting right in front of me, but, based on some of the other work I've seen in the house, I question whether or not it's a "perfect" one. For one thing, the original framers did not use king studs on either side of the door--just the jack studs. I suspected that I needed the king studs and called the local code inspector to confirm that.
 
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