Garage Door Repair/Replace
#1
Garage Door Repair/Replace
We had problems with our 25-30 yo garage door (basic single door, 4-panel, 7' x 9' I think). I went to replace hardware on it, but upon doing so, I realized that the problem is that the top panel has been bowed out by the garage door opener arm. See pictures.
I was wondering if I could replace just the top panel on this garage door. Is it possible to get a replacement panel? I would also replace other hardware (rollers, handle, opener bracket plate, etc.). Or should I just do a total garage door replacement? Thanks.
I was wondering if I could replace just the top panel on this garage door. Is it possible to get a replacement panel? I would also replace other hardware (rollers, handle, opener bracket plate, etc.). Or should I just do a total garage door replacement? Thanks.
#2
Depending on brand, yes you should be able to replace panel. However if you're replacing hardware and maybe track, consider new doors. 25-30 years is a good life for an appliance that is used several times a day.
#3
Member
That piece of angle at the top of the door was installed backwards, it should have been installed so it set over the top of the door, not facing away from it like that for more strength.
#4
That piece of angle at the top of the door was installed backwards
I'm certain you will be able to find a new panel will the pattern be the same, unknown!
Herry1324
voted this post useful.
#5
Depending on brand, yes you should be able to replace panel. However if you're replacing hardware and maybe track, consider new doors. 25-30 years is a good life for an appliance that is used several times a day.
I was going to replace rollers/brackets, handle H/W, maybe a cable. These aren't beat, I was just going to replace as "maintenance". Springs and cable were replaced some years ago. Track looks OK. If everything was beat, I would replace the unit. I do not want to go to the expense and hassle of putting in a new door (especially new track) if I can just put in a new panel and items I mentioned here.
#6
That piece of angle at the top of the door was installed backwards, it should have been installed so it set over the top of the door, not facing away from it like that for more strength.
#7
Forwards or backwards is not the issue, it's simply to thin as evident in the kink, something heavier would displace the stress across the top rail!
The small bracket that connects the opener arm to the garage door is problematic. It concentrated the force over a small area, which probably caused the door to buckle. My understanding is that there are larger brackets and that that is what is used today.
I'm certain you will be able to find a new panel will the pattern be the same, unknown!
I would tolerate a similar pattern, the garage door is just a basic steel, white garage door. Depends on price and availability, as usual.
Thanks all!
#9
Thats the standard bracket that comes with the opener. I always suggested to my customers that they buy a longer version that spanned the entire height of the top panel to help distribute the force. Similar to this....https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-21-in-Opener-Reinforcement-Bracket-Kit-4125479/100069364
They make slighty smaller cheaper ones that work just as well.
Can't really tell the extent of damage to the panel, but thats not a bottom of the line door since it's obvious it has insulation in the panels. Based on the length of the arm on the opener and the light gauge angle used as reinforcement...looks more like someone just didn't read instructions when the opener was installed.
They make slighty smaller cheaper ones that work just as well.
Can't really tell the extent of damage to the panel, but thats not a bottom of the line door since it's obvious it has insulation in the panels. Based on the length of the arm on the opener and the light gauge angle used as reinforcement...looks more like someone just didn't read instructions when the opener was installed.
#10
Call a garage door company. My 2 sons recently did this. They offered to replace one panel or replace the whole door.
Thats the standard bracket that comes with the opener.,,,,,, Based on the length of the arm on the opener and the light gauge angle used as reinforcement...looks more like someone just didn't read instructions when the opener was installed.
I always suggested to my customers that they buy a longer version that spanned the entire height of the top panel to help distribute the force. Similar to this.
I need to identify the garage door in order to try to get a panel. I suspect that the door is a Clopay or Sears brand. Both of those companies still make those type/style doors.
#11
Sears is just rebranded from some major manufacturer. Possibly more than one depending on model.
I've installed a few some as far back as 20-25 years, and that gauge brace would never have been acceptable.
You might try looking at the area where the panels meet or on the ends of the panels. There's often a tag (esp between the panels) that doesn't get torn up over the years. ANY sort of marking might give a clue as to who made it. Just release the opener and manually lift it a panel at a time so you can look at the length of junction. Otherwise it's just guessing since many manufacturers doors LOOK exactly alike except for some fine details like type of insulation, hinges, hardware, etc.
You don't say where you are located...but some doors sell more in certain regions than others. Back in Tidewater VA they were almost all Wayne-Dalton or Clopay...with a sprinkling of Overhead Door models.
I've installed a few some as far back as 20-25 years, and that gauge brace would never have been acceptable.
You might try looking at the area where the panels meet or on the ends of the panels. There's often a tag (esp between the panels) that doesn't get torn up over the years. ANY sort of marking might give a clue as to who made it. Just release the opener and manually lift it a panel at a time so you can look at the length of junction. Otherwise it's just guessing since many manufacturers doors LOOK exactly alike except for some fine details like type of insulation, hinges, hardware, etc.
You don't say where you are located...but some doors sell more in certain regions than others. Back in Tidewater VA they were almost all Wayne-Dalton or Clopay...with a sprinkling of Overhead Door models.
#12
Member
I think the top center is being pushed out because the down stop motor switch cam is out of adjustment and needs to turn off motor sooner in the door's travel toward the floor. Any trolley travel, once the door hits the floor, is away from the door closer causing the bow. Also the steel angle piece is being compromised because it is not installed flat, going over the vertical steel brace. It appears to be a band-aid to prevent the bowing and not something installed from the factory.