Garage Door Repair/Replace


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Old 11-11-19, 03:13 AM
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Garage Door Repair/Replace

We had problems with our 25-30 yo garage door (basic single door, 4-panel, 7' x 9' I think). I went to replace hardware on it, but upon doing so, I realized that the problem is that the top panel has been bowed out by the garage door opener arm. See pictures.

I was wondering if I could replace just the top panel on this garage door. Is it possible to get a replacement panel? I would also replace other hardware (rollers, handle, opener bracket plate, etc.). Or should I just do a total garage door replacement? Thanks.
 
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Old 11-11-19, 04:05 AM
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Depending on brand, yes you should be able to replace panel. However if you're replacing hardware and maybe track, consider new doors. 25-30 years is a good life for an appliance that is used several times a day.
 
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Old 11-11-19, 05:48 AM
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That piece of angle at the top of the door was installed backwards, it should have been installed so it set over the top of the door, not facing away from it like that for more strength.
 
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Old 11-11-19, 09:22 AM
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That piece of angle at the top of the door was installed backwards
Forwards or backwards is not the issue, it's simply to thin as evident in the kink, something heavier would displace the stress across the top rail!

I'm certain you will be able to find a new panel will the pattern be the same, unknown!
 
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Old 11-11-19, 02:27 PM
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Depending on brand, yes you should be able to replace panel. However if you're replacing hardware and maybe track, consider new doors. 25-30 years is a good life for an appliance that is used several times a day.
How do I go about tracking down a panel? Brand is unknown, if there is a way to identify it. let me know. I did not see any markings. Where do I get a panel? It does not look like something one of the large stores carries.

I was going to replace rollers/brackets, handle H/W, maybe a cable. These aren't beat, I was just going to replace as "maintenance". Springs and cable were replaced some years ago. Track looks OK. If everything was beat, I would replace the unit. I do not want to go to the expense and hassle of putting in a new door (especially new track) if I can just put in a new panel and items I mentioned here.
 
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Old 11-11-19, 02:33 PM
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That piece of angle at the top of the door was installed backwards, it should have been installed so it set over the top of the door, not facing away from it like that for more strength.
I was wondering about that, but it is possible that if was installed over top of door, it would overhang and interfere with the opener chain/carrier. I don't know.
 
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Old 11-11-19, 02:47 PM
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Forwards or backwards is not the issue, it's simply to thin as evident in the kink, something heavier would displace the stress across the top rail!
My understanding is there are other ways/parts (door struts?) to do this. The angle metal might have been the way things were done when the opener was installed, many years ago. If I can get a panel, I would want to install it correctly with the proper support.

The small bracket that connects the opener arm to the garage door is problematic. It concentrated the force over a small area, which probably caused the door to buckle. My understanding is that there are larger brackets and that that is what is used today.

I'm certain you will be able to find a new panel will the pattern be the same, unknown!
See my reply above and advise on how to do this, if you can.

I would tolerate a similar pattern, the garage door is just a basic steel, white garage door. Depends on price and availability, as usual.

Thanks all!
 
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Old 11-11-19, 04:14 PM
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Call a garage door company. My 2 sons recently did this. They offered to replace one panel or replace the whole door. The one son opted for one panel replacement, while the other replaced the whole door.
 
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Old 11-11-19, 09:46 PM
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Thats the standard bracket that comes with the opener. I always suggested to my customers that they buy a longer version that spanned the entire height of the top panel to help distribute the force. Similar to this....https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-21-in-Opener-Reinforcement-Bracket-Kit-4125479/100069364

They make slighty smaller cheaper ones that work just as well.

Can't really tell the extent of damage to the panel, but thats not a bottom of the line door since it's obvious it has insulation in the panels. Based on the length of the arm on the opener and the light gauge angle used as reinforcement...looks more like someone just didn't read instructions when the opener was installed.
 
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Old 11-13-19, 02:24 AM
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Call a garage door company. My 2 sons recently did this. They offered to replace one panel or replace the whole door.
To be clear, I was looking for a source for a suitable replacement panel for a self-install.

Thats the standard bracket that comes with the opener.,,,,,, Based on the length of the arm on the opener and the light gauge angle used as reinforcement...looks more like someone just didn't read instructions when the opener was installed.
I believe that the Craftsman opener was purchased at Sears and installed professionally, likely by their person, probably over 25 years ago. I guess it is possible that this was the way it was done back then.

I always suggested to my customers that they buy a longer version that spanned the entire height of the top panel to help distribute the force. Similar to this.
Yes, I was looking at those this summer after I realized that the door itself was damaged. I also was looking at other reinforcement like a strut

I need to identify the garage door in order to try to get a panel. I suspect that the door is a Clopay or Sears brand. Both of those companies still make those type/style doors.
 
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Old 11-13-19, 10:43 PM
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Sears is just rebranded from some major manufacturer. Possibly more than one depending on model.

I've installed a few some as far back as 20-25 years, and that gauge brace would never have been acceptable.

You might try looking at the area where the panels meet or on the ends of the panels. There's often a tag (esp between the panels) that doesn't get torn up over the years. ANY sort of marking might give a clue as to who made it. Just release the opener and manually lift it a panel at a time so you can look at the length of junction. Otherwise it's just guessing since many manufacturers doors LOOK exactly alike except for some fine details like type of insulation, hinges, hardware, etc.

You don't say where you are located...but some doors sell more in certain regions than others. Back in Tidewater VA they were almost all Wayne-Dalton or Clopay...with a sprinkling of Overhead Door models.
 
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Old 04-06-21, 04:15 AM
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I think the top center is being pushed out because the down stop motor switch cam is out of adjustment and needs to turn off motor sooner in the door's travel toward the floor. Any trolley travel, once the door hits the floor, is away from the door closer causing the bow. Also the steel angle piece is being compromised because it is not installed flat, going over the vertical steel brace. It appears to be a band-aid to prevent the bowing and not something installed from the factory.
 
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Old 04-06-21, 05:15 PM
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Old thread. Hijacked by advertising and closed.
 
 

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