Garage Door Flaky on closing

Old 02-25-21, 08:01 AM
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Garage Door Flaky on closing

I have a Chamberlin opener, about 15 years old. It works fine 97% of the time, but occasionally is difficult to close. The door will come down a bit and then reverse. Using the wired button and holding the button down usually works, but is obviously a nuisance. I noticed that the lens was missing in the sensor that should have a lens and bought a replacement. It didn't help.

I had professional out a couple years ago. They said the problem was the trolley needed grease and the rollers were worn out. They took care of those, but it didn't help. It never has any problems going up; just down.

Any suggestions as to what the problem is?

The last two times it failed were on very sunny days, so that might be a clue, but the sensor with the lens (which I presume is the receiver...) is pointing north, so the sun shouldn't affect it.
Old 02-25-21, 08:46 AM
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First, on the next sunny day when the opener is having troubles pull the disconnect and open and close the door manually. You are feeling to see if it is well balanced by the springs and that there is no binding. In some cases a rusted torsion spring can cause too much friction and oiling it can help a lot. If the door moves smoothly I would look at the down force torque setting on the opener.
Old 02-25-21, 09:26 AM
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I have the same problem with a new (installed in August) Genie opener. The door closes about a third of the way and then reverses. It happens in the exact same spot and it sometimes takes two or three attempts before it closes. I'm sure it is the down force adjustment. I'm just waiting for warmer weather to work on it.
Old 02-25-21, 10:50 AM
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The last time it failed, I disengaged and pulled it down. It was smooth and very easy.

The thing is... it only fails about 10 times a year. The other 1,000 times it is fine. But when it fails, it really fails and take some serious effort to get it down. Some times I can fix it by pulling down on the door; other times by holding the wired button down; but last month it wouldn't go down at all no matter what I did. I disengaged and pulled it down. An hour later I tried it and it was fine.
Old 02-25-21, 07:47 PM
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Does you motor housing have two adjustment knobs that control the up and down sensitivity? I had one years ago that started acting funky until I adjusted those properly.
Old 02-25-21, 10:07 PM
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I have a Chamberlin opener, about 15 years old.
Having just replaced my 13 year old Chamberlin opener this past fall the new opener is amazingly quiet and efficient. Being the same make it took an hour to swap, best $200 spent. You got your monies worth!

Plus, was able to resell all the original remotes, control panel, and sensors and recoupled almost half the cost of the new opener!

Last edited by Marq1; 02-25-21 at 10:36 PM.
Old 02-26-21, 04:11 AM
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I agree with Marq. Time for a new unit.

However, assuming springs are proper size and proper windings.
As a last resort take a close look at the rail attachment and the lining up of the door from side to side. Is one side touching or nearly touching the framing? Are any of the wheel sticking out further than the opposite side?
A little more information...Is this one double door or a single car door? Bigger door, bigger mis-alignment. Is it torsion spring or tension spring?

I'm thinking the door is getting cocked during operation. It's not exactly centered. Just out of wack enough that it may not happen often but temp difference can be the trigger. Make sure all hinges are tightened and all bolts attaching the rail to the frame are tight. Over time they can get loose enough to shift the rail just enough to cause mis-alignment. I had the same problem for years and thought the head unit was bad. Discovered the framing bolts loosened just enough to cause the rails to shift to one side.

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