My new shed is not yet wired, but for the time being I have a great solar light out there so at least I can putter around at night. I will keep this light as it is super bright and of course, it doesn't cost anything to run.
I attached a pic of the shed below. Right now I have the solar panel attached to the fence behind the shed, and the power cable running in at the window. Obviously I want to mount it permanently on the roof, but not sure of the best way to do that I don't want to damage anything or God forbid cause a leak. What would be the best way to mount the panel, and then run in the cable? Thoughts?
I did it!! It was definitely a bigger job than I really thought it would be - only because I had not done this before and was not prepared with everything I needed. I had to make about 10 trips up and down the ladder outside LOL.
I had to use a spade bit to make the hole for the cable as there is a wide connector at the end and I had forgotten about that. Needed a way wider hole than I had thought. And of course, I realized that AFTER I had attached the panel bracket. So I had to take it off, (And of course I had to use a small offset driver to do this each time because there was no room to fit mu impact driver up there under the panel!!) And I had to climb up to the loft and drill the other hole - sheesh that was not fun, but I got it ALMOST straight across - not quite, but close. Still, I had to get a lantern and hang it in the loft so that I could direct the wire through to the inside hole, from the outside hole. I taped a long wire to the cable connector with electrical tape, sent it through from the outside, and then climbed up to the loft and ever so delicately pulled it though - I was so afraid that the wire was going to pull out of the tape but it held - and I actually yelled when it came through!
I would attach the solar panel to the gable, fascia or side of the building where it gets good sun exposure. That way you don't put any holes in the roof and no power wire running across the lawn.
You could also mount a 2 x 4 attached to the peak on the side and attach the solar cell to that.
I also have one of these solar lights. I paced it on small piece of plywood and use the unit as trouble light. Especially when an extension cord is not available and I don't need to worry about the cord getting in the way. Very maneuverable. When not in use I keep the light plugged in and the solar cell is attached to a south facing window.
I would attach the solar panel to the gable, fascia or side of the building
Yes I thought that aluminum-trimmed fascia would be the spot - just not sure how to attach. Do you have to remove the soffit to attach the bracket to the fascia board above it?? I've never installed anything like this so the fascia/soffit thing is all new territory for me.
Where is the sunniest spot that gets the most exposure during the day? Mounting on the gable or soffit do not appear to be the best locations.
From the photo it appears that the location on the fence is giving you sufficient exposure. (except that the shadow from the roof overhang is just getting there.) What time was the picture taken? Since the front of the shed has the same exposure as the fence it appears that it would be an ideal location. Mount the panel on that side low enough to avoid any shadow from the overhang and drill a small hole behind it for the cable. Leave a drip loop on the cable and caulk the hole.
The solar panel that is mounted on the fence is facing the sunniest direction. That picture was taken very late in the day. The shed faces west, and the window gable end faces south. It seems to me that the bracket mounted on that south facing fascia, on the front end, would be the best place. The panel rotates a bit and it is not a flush mount bracket - it is about a 4-inch deep bracket - you can see it is at an angle on the fence.
I get the placement. I am just trying to understand what exactly I am screwing the bracket to, and how to get to it. I *think* that whole overhang is hollow - is the aluminum trim covering wood? Sorry - I don't know much about how overhangs are constructed. This is the overhang and the inside of the same area.
Exactly where PJ showed. Except I would put it at the very peak. You screws right into the facia board even if it's clad in aluminum. If you ever take it own just throw some caulk into the holes. That way if you point the solar sell almost straight up you'll get the most sunshine. But it doesn't really matter. At least an hour or two sunlight will give the batteries full charge.
I have my outside camera's attached just like that.
I know how to drill a screw in. But to mount this bracket...I have to tighten a nut on the other end. How do I access that nut? How do I get to the other side?? Sorry - I know this must be a complete no-brainer to the rest of you because no one seems to understand what I am asking. Wait...maybe I am wrong here... let me go take a look at the bracket again. It might be as simple as just screwing it in to the wood!
Oy vey! I don't know why I thought I had to mount it with a nut/washer. Sheesh. Okay that is solved.
But I still need to get the cable run inside to the light.
I think you got it. You might need to put a 2x 4 spacer between the bracket and the facia board. Just to bring it out not to interfere with the roof edge.
You might need to put a 2x 4 spacer between the bracket and the facia board. Just to bring it out not to interfere with the roof edge.
Okay I understand that . Do I drill a hole through that same area to run the cable in? I would have to drill out from the inside board too, right? And somehow fish the cable out? I know this cannot be as difficult as I am making it. Sorry. I found this pic and that helps me a lot LOL. At least now I understand how that is built.
use some Finger Putty
Is that the brand name? Where can you buy it?
Frost King makes it. The actual name is FingerTip Rope Caulk. Available almost anywhere. The same stuff used by utility companies as their lines enter houses (cable, electrical, pipes, etc...)
I did it!! It was definitely a bigger job than I really thought it would be - only because I had not done this before and was not prepared with everything I needed. I had to make about 10 trips up and down the ladder outside LOL.
I had to use a spade bit to make the hole for the cable as there is a wide connector at the end and I had forgotten about that. Needed a way wider hole than I had thought. And of course, I realized that AFTER I had attached the panel bracket. So I had to take it off, (And of course I had to use a small offset driver to do this each time because there was no room to fit mu impact driver up there under the panel!!) And I had to climb up to the loft and drill the other hole - sheesh that was not fun, but I got it ALMOST straight across - not quite, but close. Still, I had to get a lantern and hang it in the loft so that I could direct the wire through to the inside hole, from the outside hole. I taped a long wire to the cable connector with electrical tape, sent it through from the outside, and then climbed up to the loft and ever so delicately pulled it though - I was so afraid that the wire was going to pull out of the tape but it held - and I actually yelled when it came through!
Thanks! I was so happy that I actually was able to do this. I did not have to bother my boyfriend at all and that was my goal. Thank you so much for your help.
And where the heck has "rope caulk" been all my life???
I have a Chamberlin opener, about 15 years old. It works fine 97% of the time, but occasionally is difficult to close. The door will come down a bit and then reverse. Using the wired button and holding the button down usually works, but is obviously a nuisance. I noticed that the lens was missing in the sensor that should have a lens and bought a replacement. It didn't help.
I had professional out a couple years ago. They said the problem was the trolley needed grease and the rollers were worn out. They took care of those, but it didn't help. It never has any problems going up; just down.
Any suggestions as to what the problem is?
The last two times it failed were on very sunny days, so that might be a clue, but the sensor with the lens (which I presume is the receiver...) is pointing north, so the sun shouldn't affect it.
Hi,
we are turning our backyard raised shed into an office. The space is 7.5 by 10, is all drywall, has electric and a brand new roof.
Our issue is the flooring which is currently is painted plywood. We would like to add either peel and stick vinyl planks or click vinyl planks. The floor is not level in one part, there is too much of a level difference to install right on top.
what would be the best solution to level the floor?
we are not super handy and have a limited budget but willing to put the effort in to make it work.
is a self leveling solution a good idea?
could we use left over underlayment from the main house to try to make it somewhat level?
are there other more forgiving flooring types that still look and feel good?
thank you!
03-01-21, 08:08 AM
So I had to take it off, (And of course I had to use a small offset driver to do this each time because there was no room to fit mu impact driver up there under the panel!!) And I had to climb up to the loft and drill the other hole - sheesh that was not fun, but I got it ALMOST straight across - not quite, but close. Still, I had to get a lantern and hang it in the loft so that I could direct the wire through to the inside hole, from the outside hole. I taped a long wire to the cable connector with electrical tape, sent it through from the outside, and then climbed up to the loft and ever so delicately pulled it though - I was so afraid that the wire was going to pull out of the tape but it held - and I actually yelled when it came through! 
So I had to take it off, (And of course I had to use a small offset driver to do this each time because there was no room to fit mu impact driver up there under the panel!!) And I had to climb up to the loft and drill the other hole - sheesh that was not fun, but I got it ALMOST straight across - not quite, but close. Still, I had to get a lantern and hang it in the loft so that I could direct the wire through to the inside hole, from the outside hole. I taped a long wire to the cable connector with electrical tape, sent it through from the outside, and then climbed up to the loft and ever so delicately pulled it though - I was so afraid that the wire was going to pull out of the tape but it held - and I actually yelled when it came through! 
. Do I drill a hole through that same area to run the cable in? I would have to drill out from the inside board too, right? And somehow fish the cable out? I know this cannot be as difficult as I am making it. Sorry. I found this pic and that helps me a lot LOL. At least now I understand how that is built. 
