I have new Microllam LVL beams in place on a new build garage, now I'm told my trusses are running behind for delivery, possibly another 3-4 weeks, we have rain and snow coming and the beams will be exposed to the weather longer than expected. Looked online and the only info I can find is that the beams should not be exposed to the wet weather, I can't even find a phone number of the manufacturer so I can get a little tech support on how weatherproof these beams really are, no sheathing on the front of the garage yet. Thinking about wrapping my cripples and beams with Tyvek to keep them dry but I wish I could contact the manufacturer to see just how critical keeping these beams dry really is. Anyone have any info on this subject?
Laying on the ground in a mud puddle is one thing. After they are up, there should be no problem from them being in the weather for a while. Happens all the time.
The wall studs will stay straighter if the sheathing gets put on asap.
I have some extra rolls of Tyvek, plan on draping it over the top to cover the beam. Finished putting it up yesterday just in time then the rain moved in. We have more rain and high winds for the next couple days, planning on getting out there as soon as the winds calm down so I can start sheathing it. I'll try to cover it today and put on more braces also, the weather has been horrible the past few weeks. I did find something online that said these beams have a "watershed overlay moister barrier" on them but still plan on putting cover over it just in case these trusses take longer than I was told. My overhead door distributor already told me it would take about 16 weeks just to get a garage door in, guess it was a bad time to start building, can't get anything on time anymore to finish up this project...
They are not treated for exterior exposure but like all the other wood your using it will be OK for a while. And, the LVL's I have used do seem to be impregnated or coated as the water mostly beaded up without soaking in.
The beam maker makes tradeoffs to make a profit while avoiding a huge public scandal, as does the Tyvek maker. By using one product to protect another you may be doubling your risk of these beams having a short lifetime.
Tyvek allows moisture to pass thru..... not running water.
Using Tyvek to keep water off the LVL is fine.
99% of the water will just run off the paper.
I wouldn't hesitate to wrapping the LVL on three sides and stapling the Tyvek on.
Hi folks, so the metal cable on my garage door broke (the one that helps the garage door opener lift the door). One side of the cable has a “loop” that attaches to the “eye bolt” on the metal framing by the ceiling. The other end of the wire has this flat metal clip (see picture below) that allows the wire to connect to the roller bracket at the bottom of the door.
Went to Home Depot and [url=https://www.homedepot.com/p/Clopay-7-ft-High-Extension-Spring-Cable-Assembly-1120020/312648450][u][b][i]the generic replacement cable they sell[/i][/b][/u][/url] has a loop on one end and nothing on the other. Hmmm. I asked the employee and she showed me [url=https://www.homedepot.com/p/Prime-Line-Extension-Spring-Cable-Set-1-8-in-x-13-1-2-ft-Galvanized-Carbon-Steel-2-Pack-GD-52262/202633703][u][b][i]this one they sell online by Primeline[/i][/b][/u][/url] that has the clip that I’m looking for on one end, but the other end is just bare.
So what’s the deal here? Do I need to buy additional hardware to crimp on the end to make what I need? I didn’t think my setup was that unique.
Thanks!
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[i]Picture of the metal clip that allows connection of the metal cable to the roller bracket at the bottom of the door[/i]
Metal flashing fell off, the board it was attached too rotted. Then the wrap failed, letting the sheathing rot. I cut out the sheathing then realized the door jamb isnt looking too good. The worse spot is in the middle.
Right side of pic is the sheathing still rotten, left side it is removed. It looks like stacked 2x4 so I wasnt sure how to proceed.
How serious is this and how expensive? Beyond DIY?
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