Hello everyone - I am in the process of planning the build of an 8x12 shed. On one of the 12' faces (front of the shed), I would like to have the roof overlap by 3' to create a shelter for my bbq during the summer (pic attached below).
My plan is to put 3 4x4 posts with a with a deck beam to sit the trusses on at the end of the 3' - but my main concern at the moment is that the shed is going to be built on blocks, making me wonder what the best footing for the posts would be. If the shed moves up and down with freeze/thaw, wouldn't anchoring the posts in concrete piers set below the frost line seem like a recipe for disaster?
So my questions are the following:
Are posts necessary at all? In other words, can I cantilever trusses by 3' on an 8' building? I am assuming no, but I am asking anyways.
If the shed is built on blocks, what would be the best footing for the posts to ensure I don't pull the roof down (or push it up) during the freeze/thaw cycles?
For consideration, I am in Quebec, Canada, and snow is a factor.
I would call a truss building place and ask them what the cost would be for what you want. That way the trusses will be engineered by experts to do what you want.
You don't need posts. Cantilever your ceiling joists out. Put a 2x subfascia across them. Your rafters will butt into that fascia, and get nailed to the side of the ceiling joists. Then add a plumb support directly above the top plate, below the rafter, nailed to the side of the ceiling joist. If you want added support, slap a triangle of osb on the side to strengthen the connection.
Fantastic news that I don't need posts. What I was thinking of doing was building king post truss', 24" OC, with a 6:12 pitch. This means that for my 8' shed depth, I would need a 12' rafter (8 for the shed + 1' for overhang in the back + 3' for overhang in the front).
So 12' long king truss built out of 2x4, hurricane clipped to the top plates of the shed + all the bracing mentioned by XSleeper and I should be good to go?
[color=#151515]I have an older metal outbuilding. The 6"X6" posts were set in concrete and I'm sure most are rotting. The one by my entrance door has rotted completely thru and shifted about 1+ inch. The inside of the barn is all concrete with part of it finished and the post are covered up. I dug the one by the entrance out down to the concrete and cut off what was left of the post. My plan is to pour concrete over the existing concrete, set a new 6x6 a few feet long, and butt the old and new together and sandwich with 2x6's with carriage bolts. What should I backfill the hole around the new post with? Stone? Is this a correct way to do this?[/color]
[color=#151515]Also, I need to remove the horizontal boards at ground level and replace. The problem is I need to remove the metal siding? I have removed a couple rows of nails, which are a pain, but cannot get enough flex in the siding to pull it out far enough. I will remove another row of nails. Is there a easier way to do this?[/color]
[color=#151515]One last thing, the plant I worked at closed down after I have worked there 20 years due to outsourcing so money is tight, I'm doing all the work myself.
Thanks for any suggestions.[/color]
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Hi, I'm trying to change my garage door opener and have run into a problem. The track for the new opener is 12" shorter than the old one and the studs in my finished garage ceiling run every 24".
Any ideas for the best way to hang it other than going up into the attic and adding in a couple of pieces of wood? I don't think anyone has been in that attic for 20+ years so I'd like to avoid it if at all possible :)
05-24-22, 12:30 PM
