Tilt-up garage door rubbing on door frame


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Old 12-07-22, 06:33 PM
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Tilt-up garage door rubbing on door frame



My garage door just before it fully closes is rubbing against the side door frame near the top. There is a brace as pictured running horizontally across the top and bottom of the entire door.

Each end of each brace has a nut to tighten or loosen the brace.

The hinge mounts and the structure of the door all seem tight.

Can I tighten or loosen the nuts to move the door away from where it is rubbing?

How do I go about this without making my problem worse?

Thanks!
BC

 
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Old 12-07-22, 07:56 PM
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I don't think we are going to be able to help based on that limited information. Take a picture from farther back, and also maybe it would help if you told us which side of the door is rubbing in your photo.

I understand that we are looking at the top left corner of the door from inside the garage, but that's about it.
 
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Old 12-08-22, 04:41 AM
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Do a GOOGLE search on "how to adjust a tilt up garage door." There are several videos and instructions.
 
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Old 12-08-22, 05:15 PM
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Here are photos of my garage door


Center of door top and bottom has a bridge supporting brace rod.

Hinge assembly and springs


Door open a few inches so you can see top and bottom brace

Open a few more inches

Close up of threaded brace rod, anchor, adjusting nut


The door is scraping the frame on the upper left corner when viewed from the inside. It used to close smoothly. I think I can use the adjusting nuts on the braces to get the door back to perfectly square, but I don't want to just start turning things and making it worse.

The door, the frame and the hinges are all very tight and secure.

I looked at Google and YouTube and didn't find anything that talks about the brace rods.

Thanks again!

BC
 
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Old 12-08-22, 06:32 PM
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The adjusting nuts on the truss rods do not square the door. They provide tension to keep the door straight while laying flat, in the "up" position. If the gap is bowed when it is in the closed position or is floppy when it the up position, that is when you would adjust those nuts.

Your door is either square or not square because it was built that way. There is no adjustment to the door itself, aside from cutting it or planing the edges. Instead, what you likely need to do is square the door within the opening. If your cement heaves, the door will get out of adjustment. Or perhaps the hardware is loose on the door or in need of adjustment.

It looks to me like you have Holmes E-900 hardware. For the best advice that you can both see and hear, I would suggest you watch the video "Installing Holmes E-900 Hardware & Springs", which you can find on youtube. At about the 18 minute mark, he is raising the door off the ground, shimming it up so that it does not sit on the concrete. At the same time he is observing the gap along the sides of the door before mounting the hardware to the door. This is what you need to do.

See if there is more room on the right than on the left. It's likely that you need to lift the door a little higher on the left side, which will move the top left corner of the door to the right. Or it could be that you need to loosen both sides and shift the entire door to the right. Hard to say when I can't look up and down both sides to look at the gaps and see if they are equal. Because it sounds like you have a tapered gap on the left... wider at the bottom, and tight at the top. The right side is probably the opposite... or maybe it's straight. Either way, the top left needs to shift to the right... but not so much that it hits on the right, or hits the header on the top of the door.

Since the door has springs, you need to disconnect the springs to make any adjustments, so be sure you watch the entire video so that you do this safely. You will be loosening the lags that hold the door itself to the hardware. Then you will adjust the position of the door within the rough opening. Then you will retighten the hardware.

You might also want to add a brace on each side (as he does at about 16:30) to help support and strengthen the hardware.

Hope this helps.
 
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Old 12-08-22, 06:51 PM
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It also might be an illusion, but it looks like your garage door opener rail is mounted a few inches too high on the header.
 
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Old 12-09-22, 03:32 PM
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Thanks for Holmes YouTube

That Holmes YouTube was great!
I did not know that there are slots where the door position can be adjusted.
I need to watch the video a few more times and really look at the hardware before I try anything.

I do remember that about 10 years ago I called a garage door company to replace everything on my then 35 year-old house.
A young man came in a well-labeled truck and went to work. He ran into some sort of trouble and soon another person arrived in an identical truck.
Pretty soon, and this is no lie, there were six identical trucks parked in front of my house!
I never did find out what the problem was, but eventually the door was finished and the squadron left. The door has been fine until recently.

I have a handyman who does some work for me. I have some interior closets with sliding doors which were getting stuck. I tried adjusting the doors and got nowhere. He came over and squared up the doors and got them all moving like they were brand new. He knew what he was doing.

Maybe I'll call him and ask him to have a look at my garage door. If he has experience with this type of door he might be the one to adjust it for me.

Thank you again for that video.

BC

 
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Old 12-09-22, 03:49 PM
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Glad to help. It's slightly complicated hardware. I'm not surprised an overhead door kid would need to call for backup. 😉
 
 

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