wisteria
#1
07-11-03, 08:14 PM
wisteria
After waiting several years, this spring my wisteria finally bloomed. While there were only a few blooms, I was thrilled none the less. Yesterday, while cleaning around my deck, I noticed that the dang wisteria is blooming like crazy...again! Is this normal? I thought they only bloomed once a year. Mind you I'm not complaining, it is absolutely beautiful. I'm just curious about the blooming habits.
#2
07-11-03, 09:14 PM
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The Wonderful Wisteria Vine
Hi harleyboy Welcome to DIYs Garden Forum 
We have a Wisteria with a trunk that is 4 inches across at the soil. Then runs up a 12 foot Rose of Sharon & Flowers some all season long.
The 2 plants were growing together when we moved here 15 years ago, & we could not cut out either
They are great plants & take on a mind of their own. A rush of flowers & a then a nice 5" cluster for the Wife, once in awhile all Summer long.
How do you plan on training it? Tree form, trellis, T-Pee?
One tough plant that does well any way you cut it, & cut it you must, or it will grow very large. I have seen one plant grow over a 2 story house & out into the front yard.
We plan on doing a Tree form when the Rose Of Sharon dies, it has an 8 foot trunk before it branches out. A metal pole with a steel ring held in place by spokes makes a great Tree form, Form.
A good plan now will save you a lot of reshaping if you train the vine to grow into the form. You have pleanty of time to do some searches like (Wisteria training) (Forms for Wisteria ) etc.
What a smell they have, it will intoxacate you with it perfume
We have a Wisteria with a trunk that is 4 inches across at the soil. Then runs up a 12 foot Rose of Sharon & Flowers some all season long.
The 2 plants were growing together when we moved here 15 years ago, & we could not cut out either
They are great plants & take on a mind of their own. A rush of flowers & a then a nice 5" cluster for the Wife, once in awhile all Summer long.
How do you plan on training it? Tree form, trellis, T-Pee?
One tough plant that does well any way you cut it, & cut it you must, or it will grow very large. I have seen one plant grow over a 2 story house & out into the front yard.
We plan on doing a Tree form when the Rose Of Sharon dies, it has an 8 foot trunk before it branches out. A metal pole with a steel ring held in place by spokes makes a great Tree form, Form.
A good plan now will save you a lot of reshaping if you train the vine to grow into the form. You have pleanty of time to do some searches like (Wisteria training) (Forms for Wisteria ) etc.
What a smell they have, it will intoxacate you with it perfume
#3
07-12-03, 06:35 AM
I planted the wisteria several years ago on a 6ft trellis. Not realizing the meandering habits that it has, I put it a little too close to my deck and house. Last summer it grew into the deck and up and over the house! Oh my, and I thought that the ivy was bad. In fact it grew out and up the post that has our dusk to dawn light on it. This spring I decided to cut it back, something I hadn't done before. I cut it to within about a foot or so of the trellis. Of course it's gone crazy again but hey, at least it grows and the deer that eat all my roses don't seem to be interested in it .....yet. The blooms are wonderful and well worth the wait. As far as training, I have no clue as to where to start. I just figured I'd let it grow wherever and then cut it back again this fall or next spring. Do you think I should take a more active approach to containing it?
#4
07-12-03, 11:51 AM
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The Wisteria that ate the house.
You, you had one grow over your house too
Well that is a good question. If I had my choice, & we don't on this, house eating vine
. I would plant the vine in the open for the tree form, but this has a Trellis. That's ok & right next to the deck yum, that must smell good.
It was by chance that the Wisteria & ROS got together & so every year, I have to cut the vine way back. This is how you can train yours. Not to open it up for the ROS to get light, so the vine and bush will live together. You can trim the vine back, to where you get a nice display from the trellis as the vine branches back out & flowers.
This may grow for one or two years without needing to be cut back. Like the 78 year old, Grape vines on my Wifes Family Farm, in western NY. The canes can be cut way back, & the trunk just keeps getting fatter.
You did, just what I would have done, by triming it back to the trellis. It will grow about the same cane lengths next season, so if it will become a pest at that length. Just trim it back to where you did this year. I think using a higher Trellis would make it harder to trim, 6 or 8 feet is just right.
I'll bet you had a good chuckle, when I told about the man, whos Wisteria grew over his house LOL
BTW: The pods have a bean that contains a toxic substance. Keep them trimmed off, if your pets can reach them. Just teach the Kids not to play with, the pods or beans. it's not deadly just foam & sick stomach.
Well that is a good question. If I had my choice, & we don't on this, house eating vine
. I would plant the vine in the open for the tree form, but this has a Trellis. That's ok & right next to the deck yum, that must smell good.It was by chance that the Wisteria & ROS got together & so every year, I have to cut the vine way back. This is how you can train yours. Not to open it up for the ROS to get light, so the vine and bush will live together. You can trim the vine back, to where you get a nice display from the trellis as the vine branches back out & flowers.
This may grow for one or two years without needing to be cut back. Like the 78 year old, Grape vines on my Wifes Family Farm, in western NY. The canes can be cut way back, & the trunk just keeps getting fatter.
You did, just what I would have done, by triming it back to the trellis. It will grow about the same cane lengths next season, so if it will become a pest at that length. Just trim it back to where you did this year. I think using a higher Trellis would make it harder to trim, 6 or 8 feet is just right.
I'll bet you had a good chuckle, when I told about the man, whos Wisteria grew over his house LOL
BTW: The pods have a bean that contains a toxic substance. Keep them trimmed off, if your pets can reach them. Just teach the Kids not to play with, the pods or beans. it's not deadly just foam & sick stomach.
#5
07-14-03, 04:03 AM
Indeed I was snickering at the thought of another poor vine owner watching his house being taken over by the rapidly expanding wisteria. Oh geez, it's really worth the trouble. I remember when I first saw one in bloom, I just had to have one. I usually use nothing higher than 6 ft trellis wise, I'm a bit on teh short side and had to stand on something to do my trimming this spring!
What do you know about Crape Myrtle? I planted 2 a couple of years ago in a new landscaping area around my deck. I was trying to achieve a bit of privacy and got more than I bargained for. One is huge while the other is quite a bit smaller. The problem is I'm going to need to move the large one as it's taking over the entire area. My clematis is on a trellis next to it and was loaded with blooms this spring. However, the ever expanding Myrtle is starting to crowd it a bit. Luckily, the Myrtle gets its leaves late and allowed the clematis to be seen. When is the best time to transplant the Myrtle? Do they do well after transplanting? I don't want to kill it and I suppose I could always give it a good trimming but I had read that they build their blooms on new wood from the previous season and was worried that I would end up with no flowers. Ah, gotta love gardening. I don't know how I missed this forum!
What do you know about Crape Myrtle? I planted 2 a couple of years ago in a new landscaping area around my deck. I was trying to achieve a bit of privacy and got more than I bargained for. One is huge while the other is quite a bit smaller. The problem is I'm going to need to move the large one as it's taking over the entire area. My clematis is on a trellis next to it and was loaded with blooms this spring. However, the ever expanding Myrtle is starting to crowd it a bit. Luckily, the Myrtle gets its leaves late and allowed the clematis to be seen. When is the best time to transplant the Myrtle? Do they do well after transplanting? I don't want to kill it and I suppose I could always give it a good trimming but I had read that they build their blooms on new wood from the previous season and was worried that I would end up with no flowers. Ah, gotta love gardening. I don't know how I missed this forum!
#6
07-14-03, 08:57 AM
Crape myrtles bloom on new wood grown this season. You could probably cut it back to nothing without killing it, if it is 2 - 3 years old.
Crape myrtle come in different sizes. It is best to choose one based on its eventual use. The old standard will grow to about 15 feet, and will be a headache to keep restrained to a smaller size.
Moving large plants without a tractor or such is a challenge. Here's how I have done it with a process called trenching. First year, head the plant back to a manageable size. Dig a trench about 4 inches wide around the plant 12 - 18 inches deep and fill it with peatmoss, compost, or something of that sort. Dig the trench about 18 inches in radius. Smaller if it seems appropriate. There may be some math here, but I don't know what it is. You are defining a root ball to be moved next season, so figure in the amount of help available plus your supply of Ben-Gay. Second year, this would be late winter when the plant is dormant. The roots will have developed feeder roots in the peatmoss. Dig it up and move it to a spacious, new, prepared hole. Apply tender, loving care, and water.
I moved a 12 foot Rose of Sharon in February using this method and it looks fine, blooming and growing new wood.
HTH
Crape myrtle come in different sizes. It is best to choose one based on its eventual use. The old standard will grow to about 15 feet, and will be a headache to keep restrained to a smaller size.
Moving large plants without a tractor or such is a challenge. Here's how I have done it with a process called trenching. First year, head the plant back to a manageable size. Dig a trench about 4 inches wide around the plant 12 - 18 inches deep and fill it with peatmoss, compost, or something of that sort. Dig the trench about 18 inches in radius. Smaller if it seems appropriate. There may be some math here, but I don't know what it is. You are defining a root ball to be moved next season, so figure in the amount of help available plus your supply of Ben-Gay. Second year, this would be late winter when the plant is dormant. The roots will have developed feeder roots in the peatmoss. Dig it up and move it to a spacious, new, prepared hole. Apply tender, loving care, and water.
I moved a 12 foot Rose of Sharon in February using this method and it looks fine, blooming and growing new wood.
HTH
#7
07-14-03, 11:10 AM
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Vines don't you just love um?
harleyboy said:
Indeed I was snickering at the thought of another poor vine owner watching his house being taken over by the rapidly expanding wisteria.
chfite brings in some good ideas, on transplanting older plants. The process called trenching is one, I will try on a White Rose of Sharon I want to move.
I read about and tried this, root wash away method, on a 2 year old Fig tree. We used the Hound Dog Tool, called Root Irrigator watering tool. Injecting water down & around the root system, making a liquid dirt, we could gather the root together & out.
You hook a hose up to this Giant Hypodermic with pointed end & start wetting the soil around the roots. The small tree/bush was still dormant as we worked the soil into a wet slush.
To say it took longer than we thought is like. Well can you say Hypothermia yes we got wet & cold. In the end we had the illistrated root system, all fuzzy with feeder rootlets. I would use this method again, only not @ 47 degrees with a 10mph wind.
The Fig transplant was placed in a new hole, all filled with yummies for it when it woke up. Today it is growing, like it never was moved at all. In the end what we want, is as much of the root system with as many feeder roots as we can get.
harleyboy said:
I don't know how I missed this forum!
Well you found us now . Where can you learn how to trim a Rose, do simple plumbing & fix a minor PC problem all in one stop? DIY brings some very unique people together in one place, teaching & learning.
Indeed I was snickering at the thought of another poor vine owner watching his house being taken over by the rapidly expanding wisteria.
chfite brings in some good ideas, on transplanting older plants. The process called trenching is one, I will try on a White Rose of Sharon I want to move.
I read about and tried this, root wash away method, on a 2 year old Fig tree. We used the Hound Dog Tool, called Root Irrigator watering tool. Injecting water down & around the root system, making a liquid dirt, we could gather the root together & out.
You hook a hose up to this Giant Hypodermic with pointed end & start wetting the soil around the roots. The small tree/bush was still dormant as we worked the soil into a wet slush.
To say it took longer than we thought is like. Well can you say Hypothermia
yes we got wet & cold. In the end we had the illistrated root system, all fuzzy with feeder rootlets. I would use this method again, only not @ 47 degrees with a 10mph wind.The Fig transplant was placed in a new hole, all filled with yummies for it when it woke up. Today it is growing, like it never was moved at all. In the end what we want, is as much of the root system with as many feeder roots as we can get.
harleyboy said:
I don't know how I missed this forum!
Well you found us now
. Where can you learn how to trim a Rose, do simple plumbing & fix a minor PC problem all in one stop? DIY brings some very unique people together in one place, teaching & learning.
#8
07-15-03, 05:49 AM
Hey,
Thanks for the great advice on moving the imposing Crape Myrtle I originally thought I had purchased 2 of the smaller types for this area. I always try to read up on a new plant, shrub, tree before going off and 'impulse' shopping. I learned from the GIANT junipers that have taken over my driveway. Anyway, I just didn't pay attention to the tags, was more interested in finding the right colors...a girl thing maybe... and bought one tree and one smaller type. The planting area was a new one put in to wrap around the outer edge of a new deck. We put tons of soil in to raise it as it was originally a spot that stayed really wet after a bit of rain. Anyway, it runs in an L shape about 10x6 and is 5' deep. I put in ornimnetal grass along the walk, a Japanese Maple, which I have managed to keep dwarfed, the 2 Crapes, a clematis and a Burning bush which I also keep trimmed back. And as usual, there are Dianthas along the bottom edges, some gay feather and a few other 'filling' plants. Intersting to find out I had misread about the new wood on the crape but cutting this one back won't solve my problem of overcrowding. Now that I know how to do it, I just need to find a place to put the thing. The garden at the back of the house is completely full and the deer keep me busy chasing them off. Any suggestions there? A local extension agent suggested stringing fishing line aroung the perimeter to keep them out. It's a rather large area ajoining the woods and would be a big chore to complete but well worth the effort since I like the plants they are eating.....nearly everything last year. They even ate the lillies out of the pond....varmits. They were so comfortable veggin out that I stood within 5 feet and took pictures of 'lunch time' Urgggggg.
Thanks again for the info!
Thanks for the great advice on moving the imposing Crape Myrtle I originally thought I had purchased 2 of the smaller types for this area. I always try to read up on a new plant, shrub, tree before going off and 'impulse' shopping. I learned from the GIANT junipers that have taken over my driveway. Anyway, I just didn't pay attention to the tags, was more interested in finding the right colors...a girl thing maybe... and bought one tree and one smaller type. The planting area was a new one put in to wrap around the outer edge of a new deck. We put tons of soil in to raise it as it was originally a spot that stayed really wet after a bit of rain. Anyway, it runs in an L shape about 10x6 and is 5' deep. I put in ornimnetal grass along the walk, a Japanese Maple, which I have managed to keep dwarfed, the 2 Crapes, a clematis and a Burning bush which I also keep trimmed back. And as usual, there are Dianthas along the bottom edges, some gay feather and a few other 'filling' plants. Intersting to find out I had misread about the new wood on the crape but cutting this one back won't solve my problem of overcrowding. Now that I know how to do it, I just need to find a place to put the thing. The garden at the back of the house is completely full and the deer keep me busy chasing them off. Any suggestions there? A local extension agent suggested stringing fishing line aroung the perimeter to keep them out. It's a rather large area ajoining the woods and would be a big chore to complete but well worth the effort since I like the plants they are eating.....nearly everything last year. They even ate the lillies out of the pond....varmits. They were so comfortable veggin out that I stood within 5 feet and took pictures of 'lunch time' Urgggggg.
Thanks again for the info!
#9
07-15-03, 06:07 PM
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Hot as hey!
I never tried this on deer but it will make a true believer out of silly wabbits.
Miller Hot Sauce Animal Repellent.
Miller Chemical & Fertilizer Corp.
It's HOT not to be confused with Hot Pepper Wax a very good bug repelent. Also I paid close to 100 for 1/2 gallon. That was 6 years ago a little goes a long, long way.
They ( Miller ) say it will repel any, plant eating pest. I use it once in Spring on our Spring Crops. That gives the Rabbits a bite to change their minds & most times that's all it takes.
Beware there are a lot of fake deer repelents out there, & this one keep hungery bunnies away, after just 1 bite. You may be able to buy it in a smaller batch. We buy from Farm sales & most times get a better price, but have to buy larger quanities.
Miller Hot Sauce Animal Repellent.
Miller Chemical & Fertilizer Corp.
It's HOT not to be confused with Hot Pepper Wax a very good bug repelent. Also I paid close to 100 for 1/2 gallon. That was 6 years ago a little goes a long, long way.
They ( Miller ) say it will repel any, plant eating pest. I use it once in Spring on our Spring Crops. That gives the Rabbits a bite to change their minds & most times that's all it takes.
Beware there are a lot of fake deer repelents out there, & this one keep hungery bunnies away, after just 1 bite. You may be able to buy it in a smaller batch. We buy from Farm sales & most times get a better price, but have to buy larger quanities.
