Removing old tree roots that keep destroying my ride on mower deck?
#1
04-21-21, 09:35 AM
Removing old tree roots that keep destroying my ride on mower deck?
Hi, what tools would I use to remove roots that I forget about which keep bending my riding mower deck when it runs into them?
An axe? If so, what type? Never had an axe before. Thanks.
An axe? If so, what type? Never had an axe before. Thanks.
Top Answer
04-21-21, 10:49 AM
Group Moderator
#2
04-21-21, 10:16 AM
Group Moderator
2john02458,
YaddaYadda
voted this post useful.
#5
04-22-21, 06:31 AM
Member
An axe? If so, what type?
#6
04-22-21, 06:41 AM
Member
2john02458,
I Mullins
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#7
05-04-21, 10:04 AM
Thanks for the warning to avoid a chainsaw as I do have a few of those actually. What will happen? Would it kick back?
I do have a sawzall but it's corded actually. I could run an extension cord to the location pretty easily unless there are some why nots you have in mind.
I see pruning blades on Amazon. I haven't used my sawzall too much. Will it just go into the ground there and cut out the roots with no hassle? Wouldn't it kick back as well?
Thanks.
I do have a sawzall but it's corded actually. I could run an extension cord to the location pretty easily unless there are some why nots you have in mind.
I see pruning blades on Amazon. I haven't used my sawzall too much. Will it just go into the ground there and cut out the roots with no hassle? Wouldn't it kick back as well?
Thanks.
#8
05-04-21, 10:48 AM
Member
Check this thread for some related information and pictures. With the Sawsall I can cut along the lines of the pavers to separate the roots.
In addition to potential kickback a chainsaw will throw bits of stone, dirt, sand, etc. everywhere and the teeth will be dulled to uselessness immediately.
The several reciprocating saw blades that I destroyed were all-purpose wood/nail/metal cutters. Rocks and dirt in addition to the hardness of the roots wore them down. I currently am using blades labeled for wood/plastic/pruning and they work much better, have larger teeth, and last longer.
Kickback from a reciprocating saw is more likely to bend or break the blade than jump into your leg or foot. (Or maybe dislocate a shoulder if you are too rigid and not quick enough.) Cutting from the bottom up and levering the saw against a fulcrum can avoid such problems. In any case wear eye protection. A long crowbar (6 ft.) will also be useful to lift the main root and get to others that sometimes grow down from the main root.
In addition to potential kickback a chainsaw will throw bits of stone, dirt, sand, etc. everywhere and the teeth will be dulled to uselessness immediately.
The several reciprocating saw blades that I destroyed were all-purpose wood/nail/metal cutters. Rocks and dirt in addition to the hardness of the roots wore them down. I currently am using blades labeled for wood/plastic/pruning and they work much better, have larger teeth, and last longer.
Kickback from a reciprocating saw is more likely to bend or break the blade than jump into your leg or foot. (Or maybe dislocate a shoulder if you are too rigid and not quick enough.) Cutting from the bottom up and levering the saw against a fulcrum can avoid such problems. In any case wear eye protection. A long crowbar (6 ft.) will also be useful to lift the main root and get to others that sometimes grow down from the main root.
Norm201
voted this post useful.
#10
05-04-21, 01:55 PM
Member
. Norm201
voted this post useful.
#12
05-04-21, 08:09 PM
Member
You don't HAVE to remove the entire piece of root. You can get low to the ground ...and hold the sawzall parallel and shave off the portion above the soil.
2john02458
voted this post useful.
