I had this tree trimmed and once this large branch was removed, we found that the limb was somewhat hollow and filled with either winged ants or termites. What should I do? spray with some sort of insecticide and fill the hole with something? Leave it alone? Other options?
Eeek - please not cement!
It adds water and can accelerate rot, it's harder and inflexible so it creates a "crack point" when the tree flexes in the wind. I worked several years as a tree trimmer / arborist. Which means I HATE cement & concrete in hollow trees.
I HIGHLY second the suggestion of spray foam to fill the void, followed by a quick dab of arborists anti-fungal / anti-insect paint. However, in most cases, a tree will naturally "skin over" those knots in a few growing seasons.
Normally, the hollow isn't too much of a structural problem, we see scaffolding made of hollow steel tubes, because it is light and strong, hollow wood cylinders are structurally just as sound.
Leave it alone. Is there anything that will be damaged when the tree/limb comes down? Your picture doesn't show the whole tree so I don't know where this damage is located. If it's a branch then it can be removed further down and hopefully get below the diseased area.
Once the insects are out, fill it with cement. This is tried and true method to save a tree that has had internal damage but is still healthy on the outside. The inside or heartwood is considered dead and a nonliving area. Sap wood is your living area that needs to be nurtured. If the outer section or sapwood is good the tree or branch is worth saving.
My father-in-law had two cement filled trees. One was an apple tree that had its trunk and one of the main branches hollowed out by a bore. He filled it with cement and the tree continued to bear fruit year after year.
On another tree in the front yard, a big old oak about 3 to 4 feet in diameter at the trunk (I related this story several years ago on this forum). The previous owner was a mason and skilled brick layer. The whole trunk to about 5 to 6 feet up from the ground was hollowed out by whatever and a gaping hole was exposed one on side. The hole was big enough to place a small child inside it. But the tree continued to stand. The tree was big and at least 60 feet tall. The brick layer filled in the whole trunk with brick then smoothed cement over the brick. As time went on the tree slowly grew bark around the cement and eventually hid the stone interior completely.
I only wish I could be there when the time comes and the current owner feels he needs to cut this tree down. Saw, axe, chainsaw or even a bull dozer will be in for quite a surprise!
Before jumping on the cement/concrete bandwagon do some research. The idea of filling holes or painting over wounds and cuts is very old school. Long ago it was learned that those efforts only trap moisture and insects leading and sometimes accelerating disease and damage. Here is one article to get you started but just search online for "cement in tree trunk" and you find much more information. Keep in mind that billions of trees survive in the wild without our "improvements".
PD, very interesting article. And gives me seconds thoughts about the cement fix. However, it's hard to go against what I have seen as positive fixes from cement in trees.
I do like the spray foam idea and would most likely try it.
So, I change my suggestion, go with the spray foam. The experts know better.
Eeek - please not cement!
It adds water and can accelerate rot, it's harder and inflexible so it creates a "crack point" when the tree flexes in the wind. I worked several years as a tree trimmer / arborist. Which means I HATE cement & concrete in hollow trees.
I HIGHLY second the suggestion of spray foam to fill the void, followed by a quick dab of arborists anti-fungal / anti-insect paint. However, in most cases, a tree will naturally "skin over" those knots in a few growing seasons.
Normally, the hollow isn't too much of a structural problem, we see scaffolding made of hollow steel tubes, because it is light and strong, hollow wood cylinders are structurally just as sound.
don't add anything. I did plenty research on this and as noted it'll just help hold moisture. That cut is pretty good and if lucky it'll callus over in some years and heal itself. The exposed cut in summer sun is bad but also don't add tree wound etc spray etc because that'll slow down the callus. Rain will get right in there though yes so I don't think it's a bad idea to screw a small sorta roof over that area and be patient and hope it calluses over. Doesn't seem too wide of a rot and as noted if it falls it's just your fence so you're choice.
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There's a sunflower farm here in NJ that we've been going to over the past few years.
I am amazed how few weeds are in the plots with soooo many sunflowers.
Speaking to them, they said they pull out the tulip bulbs (they have a spring tulip season on these same plots they have the sunflowers), put down fertilizer, rototill the soil, put the seeds in, then the next day they spray with a pre-emergent that they say creates a barrier on the surface to keep weeds from getting through the surface. I asked doesn't that stop the sunflowers and they said sunflowers are stronger / can poke through the soil. Not sure if they mean there's a physical barrier or a chemical barrier that kills (some types of) seeds / new sprouts). And then water for the rest of the season (he said the seeds have fertilizer on their shells).
The guy I was talking to said he didn't know the name of the pre-emergent. They plant in stages so different plots are blooming over their fall season of several weeks.
It was easy to see the soil around the shorter / younger sunflower plants and it was very barren next to the sunflower sprouts. Wish I took a picture.
And I asked if he'd feel comfortable eating something grown in that soil with that pre-emergent... It seems so long lasting and powerful. He said yes, it's a common / safe pre-emergent used on lots of produce.
Here's a video I made : ) [url]https://youtu.be/fIiGQyfRU6w[/url]
Any idea what pre-emergent
a) lasts months
b) allows plants like sunflowers to get through
c) isn't all that toxic.
THANKS!
11-23-21, 09:03 AM
