portable oil-filled radiator no power


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Old 03-22-21, 02:50 PM
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portable oil-filled radiator no power

No heat comes out from my portable oil-filled radiator (heater), power indicator light is OFF. It looks no power comes into. Is there any fuse in it? If no fuse, what causes such no heat. Mine is PELONIS. Thanks
 
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Old 03-22-21, 04:27 PM
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Model number would be helpful. Did you verify the outlet has power?
 
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Old 03-22-21, 05:32 PM
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There could be a fusible link or fuse inside. Also make sure the tip switch is working.
 
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Old 03-23-21, 12:35 PM
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Model number

The model number is HO -157C 0010. It is verified, outlet has the power, switch is ON. Brand Name is PELONIS oil filled radiator. If there is no fuse inside, what is the possible cause?
 
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Old 03-23-21, 12:45 PM
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I can't locate any information on that model number.
It's not even listed in their product line.

There will be several safeties inside.
One will be a tip switch that shuts off all power if the unit is tipped over.
There is a thermal fuse in the circuit that will open permanently if over heat conditions occur.
 
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Old 03-23-21, 01:24 PM
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Your first step could be to open the heater up and look for a fuse or some burned/blown component.
 
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Old 03-25-21, 09:04 AM
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no power

As your suggestions, I opened the cover, but I did not find any fuse or over temperature protector sensor. Please see attached pictures as pictures 2 & 3. Picture 3 is the view after I disconnected wires to heater connection as shown in picture 4; Picture 5 is the rotating switch (Low, OFF, Med, High, detail could be seen in picture 1), where two wires show some rust brown(?), I am not sure how it happens?






 
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Old 03-25-21, 10:47 AM
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If you have a multimeter I would start checking from the beginning (the end of the power cord) and follow the power through the heater and see where it stops.
 
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Old 03-25-21, 05:13 PM
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I'm surprised..... no tip switch.
I'm pretty sure the safety thermal component is in the black tubing in the blue wire.
You can use an ohmmeter on each end of the blue wire. It should show shorted.


Typically called a Microtemp fuse or Picotemp. It will probably look like the picture below.
It will have a degree rating in C on it. That will be needed for a replacement.
 

Last edited by PJmax; 03-25-21 at 05:41 PM.
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Old 03-25-21, 05:39 PM
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I was on you tube looking at some of the repair videos on these heaters. Every one was a different model number. They all look very similar..... BUT they all had a bolt on safety limiter. It was bolted directly on the heating element near the three pin connections. Yours is a completely different design.
 
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Old 03-25-21, 07:30 PM
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The thermal cutout looks to be on the bottom where the line cord comes in it's that terminal block looking thing this looks like an older one but yes basically all the sa,e Junk made in China but with small differences and a different "brand" name.
 
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Old 03-27-21, 09:16 AM
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(1) kneading tube, I could feel there is micro thermal fuse in it. I have tried to move down/up black tube which wrapped blue wire, but no lucky, so I have to cut this black tube, then replace micro-thermal fuse, if I want to replace fuse. After replacing, may I wrap them with electric tape instead tube?
(2) How I could pull/push back blue wire from/into rotary switch without disassembling rotary switch? I applied some force directly, but nothing happens. See picture 11.
(3) I use ohmmeter to check between Brown and White; Brown and Black; White and Black while turn switch ON or OFF, all are no Ohm/resistance show, see picture 13 where I check. Only checking black connect to black inlet, shows some resistance, see picture 12. Does it mean there is problem with the switch also?

Thanks

Picture 11, Blue wire insert Switch


Picture 12. Check power inlet Black and Black into heater element


Picture 13 Black, White, Brown to heater element, Black at power inlet


Picture 13
 
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Old 03-27-21, 09:36 AM
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Looking again.... there may be two heat fuses.
It looks like there may be one in the white wire.... directly next to the blue wire.

On those switches..... if you look where the wire goes in you should see a little slot.
Using a small screwdriver you push on the lever in that slot to release the wire.
You should be able to put your probe in where the wire goes in to make contact.

For checking continuity.... set meter for 200 ohms.
 
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Old 03-30-21, 03:00 PM
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following your suggestion, I get wire from the slots and checked two wires of Blue and White. One linked with mini thermal fuse and another linked resistor.
1. Using Ohmmeter to check fuse and resistor, both are open (no Ohm show, no continuation?). Do they mean both are failed (it should seldom to see both failed simultaneously)? It looks there are some burst in resistor.
2. What is Ohm for resistor, first band should be Red (Red/Blue/Yellow/Gold, 250k Ohm, 5%; it looks reason) or Brown (Brown/Yellow/Blue/Red, 1M Ohm)? Because the medium two bands of Blue and Yellow evenly distributed, hard to judge, see picture 21. If new resistor is less or greater Ohm, what will happen?
3. Is there any easy way to open the wire lock to replace micro thermal fuse? See red circled portion in picture 22.

Thanks

Picture 21 Resistor Code Band


Picture 22
 
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Old 03-30-21, 03:38 PM
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The resistor is probably ok. It's a very high value and it's probably there for the power light.
Looks like 100k ohm for the value. You'd need to measure with a high ohms scale.
The open fuse is your problem.

There is no picture 22. Do you mean previously posted 11 ?
The wires are pushed into the switch.
You need something small to push the clip back while pulling out the wire.

Here's the thing. The fuse is crimped onto the wiring. It cannot be soldered or it will melt open.
It should come with two crimp rings. If not.... you'll need two brass crimp rings.
 
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Old 04-01-21, 09:26 AM
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it is my fault, attached is the picture 22.
When I put meter at the range of 200k, it shows 101, you are right. Why it is different from to color code?
I have ordered mini thermal on e-Bay, it is only 10A, 250V. The heater power is 1500W. Is it OK? Nearby electric store only sale 180C or 150C, mine is 128C, so I chose 128C as the first concern? May I simply to try open the ring, because nowhere to buy just few crimps.
Thanks
 
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Old 04-01-21, 06:38 PM
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The gold band on the resistor means the resistor's resistance is within 5% of the color bands.
101k is good.

Technically you want to match the 128C size. A higher temp part will not protect as intended.
Sometimes I'll raise the part value up a step or two if I think it's tripping too early for the heater.
128C = holding temp.106C (223F) ....... trip temp. 128C (263F)
10A 250v is the common size available.

You may be able to get the old rings off but they are machine crimped very tightly.

You can also use the parts/rings from crimp terminals.
Most have a plastic shell you can pull off and use the metal part. In the picture... the crimp I circled.
Pull the red off and cut the eye off. You'll have a perfect ring.
Many of these crimps will do the same thing.
 
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Old 04-02-21, 03:18 PM
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I got. Thank you very much
 
 

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