No Heat Gas Dryer


  #1  
Old 07-25-02, 11:18 AM
gregrichards77
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No Heat from Kitchenaid Gas Dryer

Hello again....

Having just fixed the gas range, now the Kitchenaid KGYE900F dryer wants attention.

It happily spins but produces no heat. Control settings are correct; volume of exhaust is correct, and line is clean.

When you turn the dryer on, you still hear the gas valve go "click" after the first 10 seconds or so, as usual. But the burner is not firing after the fact.

Any suggestions on how to proceed? I've never taken the dryer apart before, but am willing to get my hands dirty.

--Greg
 
  #2  
Old 07-25-02, 11:19 AM
gregrichards77
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PS, the dryer is 14 years old.

It was bought in 88. It was the top of the line Superba with all electronic panel.
 
  #3  
Old 07-25-02, 03:40 PM
W
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is the ignitor glowing?
 
  #4  
Old 07-25-02, 05:55 PM
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Hello: Greg

Remove the burner compartment access panel, turn the dryer on and note if the glow coil glows. If it does, it will begin glowing after you hear that first click, which is one of the two solenoids opening.

Shortly after the glow coils reaches full glow, the second solenoid should click open. Youll hear the second click. If no second click is heard, the glow coil will turn off and stop glowing. If this happens, both the solenoids {2} must be replaced.

The solenoid coils are mounted directly on top of the gas valve. Each has a wire harness assembly with a plastic quick disconnect attached. The coils must be removed and replaced.

To accomplish this task, the entire burner and gas valve must be removed. Then the solenoid coils can be removed from the top of the gas valve and replaced.

The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite the norm to loosen it.

There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.

Once at the store, the salesperson can be sure the replacement parts are the correct ones. Replacing the solenoids is simple and the parts come with full instructions inclosed in the packages.

Should you or any other topic readers be concerned with doing volt and ohm tests, etc. I do not recommend them. The parts wear out, are not costly, are relatively easy to replace and the practice doing it yourself is rewarding....

Tips:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several electrical parts. However, I do not recommend relying solely on either test to determine if any electrical or electronic part or parts are causing the problem. The idea is not to replace costly parts until the defective one is found.

The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential problems, and have the local appliance parts store person test it or check it. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances.

If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button. By doing so, the additional information you add or questions you may have, will remain within this posting. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Check the prior questions pertaining to dryers, within this forum, for other postings on this topic for additional information.

TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
 
  #5  
Old 07-28-02, 03:22 PM
gregrichards77
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Dryer...yup, I think its the coils

Regarding the dryer, although you recommend against doing the various tests, I was kinda proud of my new multimeter and just had to give it a try...so,

I went in with the multimeter and got continuity on the ignitor and radiant sensor, and the holding coil, but NOT the assisting coil; that is to say, it was erratic; one minute it would show continuity and the next, I swear, it was ZIP. Is that normal?

Anyway, the gas valve also checked out at full voltage. With the panel off, I could see what was happening; just like you said, the first "click" would turn on the glow coil, which would glow just fine for 15 seconds, but then, no second click to open the valve, so the glow coil would just turn off.

I tried this several times, and just once I got the second click and voila, she fired up, but then would this would NOT repeat. So, I figure it's the coil(s).

Get the coils off was easy...just two screws...do you think I should replace more than them, or just try those for now? At least I know I can get to the other parts quickly for future repairs (except the hi-limit thermostat, which I didn't test because I couldn't find it! Not bracketed to the funnel.)

Thanks

--Greg
--Greg
 
  #6  
Old 07-28-02, 05:03 PM
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Hello: Greg

More then just you and I read these topics. Therefore, it is essential that I include the skip the testing B$$#S$@#. But glad you have a tester and know how to test electircal parts and do so without shorting out componets or shocking yourself...
Others may not be as skillful, lucky or handy....

The second solenoid coil tested as they do when they fail. They warm up and drop out. Drop out means ground out or lose electrical connection internally.

A solenoid is nothing more then an electro magnet. Energized, it will be a magnet used to hold open a tiny disk from the seat, allowing the gas to flow thru.

Losing connection, or electrical current supplied to it, for any reason or from another defective and or malfunctioning part, it demagnetizes and the disk drops down closing the passage.

After the dryer appliance works correctly by replacing the solenoids, in my opinion, there isn't any reason to fix it if it ain't broke.

Over confidence accomplishing the first task easily and then attempting to fix something that isn't already broke, just because the appliance is already apart, could be pushing ones luck too far.
Clean out the lint and dust from the dryer cabinet and check the venting system. After that....Leave well enough alone.....

TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
 
  #7  
Old 07-29-02, 08:49 PM
gregrichards77
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Fluffy dry towels, once again...

Tom,

Thanks for the advice and guidance. Got the coils today ($13 for a pair of Whirlpool ones) at Sears, came home and popped them in.

The dryer again runs like a top...first click, glow coil glows; second click, gas valve opens and burner fires.

While I was in there, I took a soft brush and the shop vac and cleaned the whole thing out...boy, that's a lot of lint. Scary to think that's where open flames reside!!! No wonder dryers are implicated in so many house fires. Next I turned the little gas valve back on, checked carefully to be sure all connectors were good and no tools were left inside (I have some good stories about tools left inside things!) and closed the machine up. Mrs. R. is once again the queen of her castle and is benevolently issuing warm fluffy towels to her loyal subjects.

I wish all repairs were THIS easy. Only so because of your knowledge and help. You are providing an excellent resource, Tom, and it's appreciated.
 
  #8  
Old 07-30-02, 05:13 AM
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We LOVE To Hear Success Stories!......hahaha...

Hello Greg

On behalf of myself and anyone else who contributes helpful advice in my "Gas Appliances" forum, I'd like to express thanks to you for taking your valuable time to reply back in the forum.

Glad you had successful results fixing the dryer problem, included the correctional method, the parts required and took some of your valuable time to reply back.

I can safely say....your a "HAPPY Camper." & so is the Mrs...

Regards and Thanks
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Tom_Bart.....TCB4U2B2B Enterprises
Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
 
 

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