Range Connecting Questions


  #1  
Old 08-26-02, 10:48 AM
bam8x6x
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teeing gas line for new range

I'm installing a new gas range in my kitchen. The range backs up to the wall of my utility room (gas water heater and gas furnace are directly behind wall). I had a gas contractor come out and give me an estimate of $300 to install a tee fitting on the water heater gas line (1/2" black pipe), run about 18" of pipe to the wall, an elbow, and about 5' down the wall (with shutoff valve), an elbow, and a short piece through the wall.

This seems pretty straight forward and I'm considering doing it myself. I have a couple questions though:

1. I've noticed that connections to my furnace and water heater have tee fittings with a short lengths of pipe extending down that are capped off (I think I saw them referred to as a drip leg). Is this necessary where I make the 90 degree turn to go through my wall, or can I use a regular elbow fitting?

2. Is one shutoff valve on the vertical pipe sufficient, or do I need another one on the kitchen side of the wall between the hard pipe/flexible pipe joint? (this would be obstructed by the range and cabinets so it doesn't seem it would serve much purpose).

3. I assume the horizontal location of the gas supply pipe (ie. behind the left side or right side of range) coming through the wall is not crucial as long as the flex pipe is long enough and allows the range to pull forward enough for hookup, occasional cleaning, etc.?

4. I bought a flex pipe range hookup kit and it says that dish detergent will cause corrosion of pipes and that special "gas leak detector" should be use for checking connections. Is this a bogus ploy to make a few bucks or can I use regular dish soap so long as I rinse w/ fresh water and dry everything?

5. Shutting off the gas supply outside the house looks simple enough, but I've read that turning it back on should be left to a pro. Why? Can I do this myself or does it really need to be left to a pro?

Thanks for your help!
Rob
 

Last edited by bam8x6x; 08-26-02 at 11:34 AM.
  #2  
Old 08-26-02, 05:17 PM
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I'll answer the last question first.

Leave ALL of it to a professional, qualified gasfitter plumber. Not all plumbers are qualified to do gas work. They have little creditentials (that show that they have attended factory sponsered training for products and training classes for gas work, and gas safety), and should be more than happy to show them off to a prospective customer. No creditentials, thanks but no thanks. Get someone else. Also get several bids....

The reasons FOR YOU NOT to doing this work are many. I will just point out a few.

1) You really have no idea of what you are doing. Putting in a water line is totally different than gas. A small water leak is just a nuisance. A small gas leak is an explosion waiting to happen.
2) Your insurance coverage will be void once your insurance agent finds out why your house either burned down or exploded. Your hired plumber will have insurance just in case this happens.

3) You will most likely have to have a gas permit pulled for this work (to do it legally). The gas company doesn't play around with meters off and back on because of their liability from (problems).


Probably not what you wanted to hear but someone should tell you.
 
  #3  
Old 08-26-02, 08:57 PM
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Hello: Rob

I can second the advice of notuboo. It's worth the cost to have a pro do the job. Worth it for piece of mind and safety. However, you could attempt the project yourself and actually determine how cost effective it would have been to hire a pro and have it done in a short time as compared to hours doing it yourself.

To answer your questions.
#1
Neither Natural gas or Propane need "Drip Tees."
Your installations most likely have been done by a plumber who works with water pipes and not gas lines. That's how a pro can determine who did the pipe plumbing... Unless of course it's a code requirement in your area for some unknown reason...???

#2
It's is always best to have a shut off valve on the stove side of the wall. In case of an oven fire or any type of stove related fire, do you really want to have to run into another room location to turn off the gas? I doubt it.

#3
The length of the pipe is crucial. It should be as close to the appliance as possible, with a shut off valve on it's end. For the same reason as #2 and to have the 6 foot flex gas line to the stove as close as poosible so the stove can be slide away from the wall for cleaning and servicing.

#4
Regular dish soap can be used and rised off. Leak test soap is not really required but does work best. May be worth the cost for safety and piece of mind.

#5
I do not suggest you turn the gas back on yourself. This task is best left to the utility company personal. However, turning it off yourself is fine. Contact the company prior to doing this connecting your stove yourself project and inquire.

Regards & Good Luck
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  #4  
Old 08-29-02, 10:14 AM
bam8x6x
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Thanks guys for your responses. You're right - $300 is cheap for the peace of mind knowing it's done right! Thanks for setting me straight.

Rob
 
 

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