Gas Cooktop Repair Questions

Old 08-30-02, 12:47 PM
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Wink Gas Cooktop Repair Questions

I have a Whirpool gas cooktop, about 13 years old.

2 things just happened:

1. The right front burner valve will not turn.
2. The burner igniter appears to have conked/shorted out.

I thought that perhaps something had spilled into the control section and proceeded to take off the glass top panel and clean around the posts with a damps sponge. The spark module (sits on the valve post) started shooting sparks and then quit. Now none of the other valves spark when fully turned on.

I contacted a local parts distributor and ordered a valve and spark module.

Do I need to order the master spark module too?

How hard is the valve to replace? I see where the gas supply comes into each valve and can handle that. It's not obvious how the valve attaches to what looks like the gas manifold coming in off the gas pipe.

I'd appreciate some words of wisdom from a Jeddhi Gas Master...
Old 08-31-02, 06:29 AM
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Hello tomarenz and Welcome to our Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliances forum.

The valve that will not turn is either frozen in place mechanically or the internal grease, which lubricates it is dried up. The best solution is to replace the valve entirely.

Some valve are screwed directly into the manifold like a bolt screws into a threaded hole, while others are clamped. Among the 2 clamped styles, there are two types.

Those that are only clamped require a special tool to attach them. The other type attach to the manifold and have two tiny screws to insure they remain attached. Both clamping types have an "O" ring to prevent gas leakage.

The clamping only type, without the two tiny screws, require the special tool. These types are usually only found on older models prior to the upgrade, which included the two tiny screws. The screws where added because the clamping only style leaked as the clamps corroded.

In regards to the top burner sparking switchs, the switches are wired so if one does not work the others will. Thereby allowing all sparkers to spark, even if one is defective.

In the problem description you described, the effected switch that shorted out must be replaced. A continuity test will determine if the other switches are operational. Water and moisture on or around electrical componets must be avoided to prevent shorts.

Since none on your stove are working and the switch shorted out, it is likely that the fuse is blown or the spark module is burned out. The module can be removed and taken to the local appliance parts store for testing. If defective, it must be replaced.

Read the manufacturers instructional or owners manual & online web sites for product information, problem possibilities, causes and solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair proceedures, and instructions, pictorials and schematics, which may be available online.

An excellent source for orginal replacement parts is your local retail appliance parts store. Appliance parts dealers test parts and carry replacement parts for all appliances. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Retail parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers and stop in at the store. The info will help to determine the possible problem causes. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button. By doing so, the additional information you add or questions you may have, will remain within this posting. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Regards & Good Luck
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises
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Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Although I have spent many years in the natural gas industry, some appliance information and or diagnostic information provided is exclusively from memory and should prove to be highly accurate. Unless a "Senior Moment" is in progress at the time of this writing...

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