Oven Ignition Problem

Hello all,

We have a GE gas range w/internal broiler and the oven burner doesn't ignite properly, if at all. The broiler burner lites and burns as it should. It appears as if the igniter is working properly but the gas supply is inconsistent causing it not to lite and burn properly. I'm guessing its the control valve but before I spend $100 I'd like to get a 2nd opinion.

The stove is 2yrs old and runs on propane.

Thanks,
- Jeff

 

Hello Jeff and Welcome to my Gas Appliances forum.

Before you assume the gas valve is defective, note the color of the hot surface ignitor. A hot glowing surface ignitor, working correctly, will glow an intense bright yellow orange in color. Any reddish color or a dull orange color indicates the glow coil is weak.

If the glow bar ignitor is glowing and the burner fails to light, most likely the glowing hot surface ignitor is too weak to provide enough of an ignition source. That is the most likely cause & replacing the glow ignitor should resolve the problem.

The ignitors are the first part to suspect, easiest to replace and cost the least amount of money. Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers can also perform tests on parts and stock replacement parts for all appliances. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Read the existing questions within this forum on the subject of ovens, burner ignition problems, etc. Doing so will help to provide you within plenty of additional information for diagnosing and resolving the problem.

If you need further assistance use the REPLY button. Doing so moves the topic back up to the top of the daily list automatically.

Ignitor web site help links:
http://www.applianceaid.com/electric...ting_tips.html
http://www.applianceaid.com/gas.html#gas-help
http://www.repairclinic.com/

Regards & Good Luck. Web Site Host & Gas Appliances Topic Moderator. Tom_Bart. TCB4U2B2B.....Company Enterprises.
Energy Conservation Consulting Services & Gas Appliance Problem Diagnostics and Technician Services.

 

Thanks for the information Tom I appreciate it.

Let me be a little more specific about my problem, I thought I clarified that the ignitor was worked properly. I've been through this on our previous gas range and have replaced them in the past. I'm confident that the ignitor is working properly because I've swapped the broiler ignitor for the oven ignitor and get the same results. I'm assuming that a properly working ignitor sends a response to the control valve signaling that the gas should begin to flow so that the burner can ignite. In my case, the gas flows irradically. If and when it does ignite it seems as if either not enough gas is flowing or too much gas is flowing. In the case where I think not enough gas is flowing the entire burner does not light, one side, or part of one side lights. In the case where I think too much gas is flowing it appears to be almost blowing itself out, whistling the whole time. Keep in mind that the broiler burner works flawlessly. Also note that the air/fuel mix valve marked LP/Gas on the burner tube, when air is cut off (finger placed over opening) the burner appears to work as designed. i.e. appears to correct the too much/too little gas description.

My assumtion that the ignitor is not the problem is based on the fact that the burner does light, sometimes, eventually with several on/off cycles of the oven.

Once again, thanks for any info you can provide.

- Jeff

 

Hello: Jeff

Chances are the ignition ports or burner holes, near the pilot flame, are restricted. Clean the burner in that area with an old tooth brush.

There is usually no need to remove the burner. Then allow the oven burner to lite and observe the flames. They should ignite at the pilot and travel completely around the entire burner head.

If not, clean and or clean the restricted holes. {A tobacco smoking pipe cleaner fits and works best.}

Once the gas exists the gas valves orifice, it enters the entry of the burner tube, it's mixed with air and the fuel mixture travels to the ports. At this point a source of ignition is needed to ignite the fuel and start the burning.

Since the ignition source is only on one side or on top of the burner, there needs to be a path for the flames to ignite and or crossover to the opposite side of the burner. The ignition and crossover holes or slot provide that path.

Any substance blocking or restricting the slots and or ports on the burner, will cause the problem you described. To insure proper burner ignition and operation, cleaning these slots and ports is required.

Burners made of aluminum may warp from the heat generated. Warping requires burner replacement if the ignition ports and or slots, depending upon which type the burner has, cannot be cleared.

The current task now is to check the above possible and or potential problems and make the required corrections. In many circumstances no parts are required. Simply a matter of clearing the restrictions to allow the flow of gas to come into contact with the ignition source.

Regards & Good Luck. Web Site Host & Gas Appliances Topic Moderator. TCB4U2B2B.....Company Enterprises.
Energy Conservation Consulting Services & Gas Appliance Problem Diagnostics and Technician Services.

 

I knew my ears were ringing!

After my post last night (prior to your reply) I pulled the burner tube and gas valve orafice out of the oven and blew them out with compressed air. They were clean, no soot or other debris, no blockage of any kind.

Baffled!

It sounds to me like you don't suspect the control valve based on your knowledge of gas appliances which is greatly appreciated! My uneducated suspecion is based on the fact that it is the only electro/mechanical part (black box) that's common between the broiler and oven burner tubes. The broiler works as designed, the oven does not. Having confirmed that the ignitor, gas orifice and burner tubes are in proper working order I'm not sure what to check next.

 

Jeff

Now that we have illiminated all the other most likely possibilities through the process of testing, checking and illinination, replace that gas valve and install a new hot surface ignitor.

Gas valves and ignitors work best when they are installed in pairs. Most service agents replace both parts when one is wornout and or defective. Doing so insures proper long term operation.

I do not immediately jump around suggesting changing suspected parts. I use the process of illimination, as we have done thoughout each communication in this thread.

You have completed each step successfully based upon your replies and communicated each well. The time has now come to replace both componets. Doing so should resolve the problem.

Use caution both in replacing the parts and be sure to obtain OEM parts from an over the counter local appliance parts sales store.

New parts often work correctly if installed correctly but there are those area exceptions when a new part simply does not function well or correctly & needs to be exchanged.

Be sure to leak check all fittings to the gas valve when it is installed to insure the fits and connections parts are leak free.