Oven Ignition Problem


  #1  
Old 05-26-03, 02:11 PM
Pigfanatic
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Gas Oven will not Light

We have a GE built-in Gas Oven that is about 2 years old. I noticed about 6 months ago that the broiler would not work on low, but since I very rarely use it I didn't worry about it and just used the high setting.

Went to turn the oven on a few minutes ago and it will not light. The digital time is still displayed, I can set a oven temp, but when I press start it goes to 100 degrees and just stays there....

The gas is on in the house (I checked the stove top)


This oven hasn't been used much since I don't use it at all in the summer time when it gets really hot....

Any ideas where to start?

Thanks for any and all help!
 
  #2  
Old 05-26-03, 04:02 PM
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Hello Pigfanatic. Welcome to my Gas Appliances forum.

If your a pig fanatic that s great. I'm a pig lover. Smart animals and real cute when young & small. Son raised a few when taking high school agriculture class. Part of the FFA.

Now to the oven problem. Since the appliance has an electronic circuit board must be a touch pad control. Best place to start is to unplug it for a few hours. In doing so the boards main control should reset.

If unplugging the appliance from the electrical power source fails to resolve the problem, remove the main circuit board and take it to the local appliance parts store. Retail parts dealers can help determine what the possible problem may be.

Take the make, model and serial numbers and stop in at the store. The info will also help to determine the possible problem causes. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Fault Codes are listed below to further help.

F0 - F1 - F7 Code Condition Check or Repair is Required.
Determining if the problem is within the Key Panel or Control by trying this procedure:

First:
Push the CLEAR/OFF button on the control pad.

Second:
Disconnect the Ribbon Cable from control module. Waiting at least 1 minute, then reconnect.

If the code recurs the problem is in the control. Replacing the control is requred. If code does not recur, problem is with the Key Panel. If the keypad is stuck it may mean the relay is turned on.

Fault Code Help Web Sites:
Oven codes and the problem solutions should be available here:

http://www.repairclinic.com/referral.asp?R=153&P=176

http://www.applianceaid.com/fault_codes.html

F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 - Check door/latch switch - Replace component.

Range/Stove Oven Fault Codes, The Most Common Types:
F5 - E0 F5 - E1 and E2 - Check door/latch switch - Replace switch, if defective.

Range/Stove/Oven Fault Codes:
F1 - Defective touch pad or membrane - Replace touch pad or membrane. This problem is usually the touch pad.

F1 - Watchdog on board - Replace touch pad or clock assembly (also called the ERC)

F1 - Power to element relay energized during time of day display - Wiring harness shorted or change power relay board (PRB)
Note: for double ovens, change second oven board.

How to test many brands of Ranges that are flashing a F1 fault code: You may have either a bad ERC (clock) or a bad touch pad.

Disconnect power to stove.
Gain access to the back of the clock (electronic range control or ERC).

Unplug the touch pad ribbon connector from the ERC. This will be a flat wire approx. 1 1/2" to 2" wide. Make sure everything is clear and will not short out when power is turned back on.

Turn power back on to stove. Watch for the F1 and listen for the beep. If you get the F1 and beep, replace the ERC.

After approx. 30 minutes you do NOT get the F1 and hear the beep, replace the touch pad.

Carefully check the wires to and from the oven temp sensor.

Regards & Good Luck. Web Site Host & Gas Appliances Topic Moderator. Energy Conservation Consulting Services & Gas Appliance Problem Diagnostics and Technician Services.
 
  #3  
Old 05-27-03, 07:11 AM
Pigfanatic
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Thanks for the help Tom!

Yep, I love to collect pigs and the little ones are cute... but had enough of them when I was growing up on a farm... now I stick to the kind that you don't have to chase around when they get lose.

Unplugging is a pain since the gas line has to be disconnected before the oven can be removed.... So I just unscrewed the fuse that goes to the oven. It's only been a few minutes since I did this so I will let it set for a couple of hours (while keeping my fingers crossed!)

Thanks again for the help!

Have a Great Day!
 
  #4  
Old 05-27-03, 07:35 AM
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Hello Pigfanatic

If disconnecting the electrical power from the appliance for several hours does not correct the problem, all the settings are correct and none of the code corrections listed resolve the problem, chances are very good the computers circuit board is defective.

Defective electronic componets must be replaced. Visit your local appliance parts store with make, model and serial numbers.
 
  #5  
Old 05-30-03, 01:09 PM
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Well.... Put the fuse back in and turned on the stove, and nothing. It's several days later and I was calling around to find someone to take board to when one person I called said that it might be the ignitor. Told me to turn on the oven and see if the ignitor glowed red, if it didn't to bring it in and let him look at it.

Went to check it out and the oven started working!!!


Any ideas (other than ghosts ) Is it possible that there was a delay in resetting once the fuse was put back in the fuse box? Can it be the ignitor going in and out?

Again... thanks for all the help!
 
  #6  
Old 05-30-03, 01:37 PM
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Hello: Pigfanatic

Any number of possibilities with sporatic operating. Removing the fuse may have reset the circuit board simply because it broke the electrical connection, as I suggested to do.

Doing that may have made a better connection with the fuse and the fuse holder, wires to and from it, etc but who knows...???

Also possible the ignitor is weak but not as likely. The problem will retrun if the main board is defective. Time will tell.

Good Luck
Tom
 
  #7  
Old 05-30-03, 01:59 PM
Pigfanatic
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Tom - thanks so much for your help. Just talked to dear hubby and he said he thought there was a nut loose in the operator

Will keep fingers crossed.

Thanks again!
 
  #8  
Old 11-10-03, 02:55 PM
Pigfanatic
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Hi! I'm back again

The oven does not work at all now... Even if we unplug the fuse.

Guess that I'm going to have to take the control panel in and have it checked out. Now my question is, how do I unplug the ribbon control? We figured out that the black clip slides back off of the white part, but does the ribbon come out by itself, or does the plastic come with it?
Thanks,
Pigfanatic
 
  #9  
Old 11-10-03, 09:57 PM
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Thumbs up Welcome Back

Hello: Pigfanatic

The ends of the ribbon have plastic quick disconnects attached to the wires of the ribbon. They may be secured with tiny clips on the ends.

Or they most likely simply pull out from the main computer board. Most likely the ribbon wires are attached to the componet and not to the main circuit board.

The componets have the ribbon wires attached to them. In some cases they are part of the componet, in other cases this is not so.

The ribbon wires extending out of the componet are than attached to the board once the componet is secured. Either way, the componets and the main circuit board are both attached to the ribbon wires.

Usually slightly wiggling them frees them enough to allow them to slip out of the opposite half, which is attached to the board.
 
  #10  
Old 11-13-03, 08:47 AM
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Called around and cannot find anyone who will check the circuit panel for me, but did find one that will check the glow igniter coil. I read the pages here on how to replace glow coils, but mine is not set up like theirs. I have removed the flame spreader, and removed the screws holding the glow coil to the side... but the wires are back behind the oven wall. How do I best access the quick connect/disconnect? It looks like I'm going to have to take the whole oven apart to get to it!

HELP!
 
  #11  
Old 11-16-03, 06:26 AM
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Hello: Pigfanatic

When you say remove the whole oven again, I have to assume remove means take the appliance out of the cabinet it is installed in. If such is the case, it would be hard to believe but possible.

If the only means to remove that possible defective hot surface glow ignitor is to remove the entire oven from the cabinet it is installed in is the only method you can determine to get it removed, than I guess you will have to do so.

Remember that only removing the fuse still leaves the electrical power available to the fuse box. You will need to be extra careful, if such is the case, during the removal process.

Removal of the entire appliance from within the enclosure or cabinet the oven is installed in does seem rather extreme. Check to be sure there are no accesses overlooked.

While following the ignitors wires back from the ignitor, there still should be some type of insulator like part which the wires pass through to connect them to the wire harness.

You should be able to locate this place and remove that insulator to access the ignitors wire quick disconnect. Double check those findings.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice.
 
  #12  
Old 11-27-03, 08:12 AM
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Thanks for all the help!

Thanks Sharp for your help. Because of you I am now cooking Thanksgiving dinner in the repaired oven, and not a new one!

Could not get to the quick connect without removing the oven from the cabinet, so hubby just cut the wires and used the special wire nuts that came with the new ignitor to reconnect. She works like a charm!

Was able to repair the oven for $57.50!

Thanks again and hope you have a wonderful Turkey Day!!!

~Nancy
 
  #13  
Old 11-27-03, 09:31 AM
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Smile Thanks For The Compliment

Hi: Nancy

Glad to know the oven is now fixed and working correctly..

Always nice to be able to fix an appliance yourself, with a little help and some minor advice. You did a wonderful job with so little guidance too.

Glad I was able to be of service to you this time and will be glad to be any time in the future.

HAPPY THANKSGIVING TO YOU AND YOUR FAMILY.

Regards,
Tom

BTW:
What time is dinner? I'll be right over...hahaha...
 
 

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