gas dryer doesn't dry


  #1  
Old 06-21-03, 09:09 PM
mwortman
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
gas dryer doesn't dry

I have an old Maytag LSG1000 gas dryer that no longer drys clothes. The vent hose is clear and the system ignites and heats at the start of a cycle. After that, the igniter glows but the gas never kicks in.

My first thought was the flame sensor but since the unit works when I first start it, I am not sure.

What is going on?

Thanks, in advance, for any thoughts.
 
  #2  
Old 06-22-03, 06:20 AM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 9,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 7 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Hello Michael. Welcome to my Gas Appliances forum and our Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Now that it has been established the venting system is not the problem, the most likely part is a weak glowing coil. Replacing it may resolve the problem but not positively.

After that part has been replaced, the next most likely parts are those on top of the gas valve. They are the solenoids.

When one of the solenoids gets heated too much from normal usage, the coils of wire within them expand and break the internal electrical connection. Solenoid replacement is the only correctional option.

Replacing the solenoids, which are sold in pairs only, should resolve the problem. Be sure to unplug the dryer first and turn off the gas supply to it before attempting any repairs.

Remove the entire gas valve assembly. Then remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate. Replace both solenoids and reassemble the parts as you originally found them.

Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Another possibility could be a defective gas valve. Remove entire gas valve unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option, if the gas valve is found to be defective.

Flame Sensor is yet another possibility:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it may cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.

For additional information, repair instructions etc. read the other questions within this forum pertaining to dryer topics. The questions already asked describe like or similarly related problem descriptions as your question.

These prior postings and any or all the replies offered within them contain all the required information needed pertaining to the many possible problems with the dryers unit like your describing.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model & serial #'s.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for additional problem solving information and original replacement parts. Parts dealers are listed in the phone book.

If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button once again to add any additional information or ask additional questions after attempting the correctional method or methods offered above.

Regards & Good Luck, Forum Host & Multiple Topic Moderator.
TCB4U2B2B Company Enterprises. Energy Conservation Consultant & Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
 
  #3  
Old 06-22-03, 07:11 AM
mwortman
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Hi, Sharp, Thanks for the reply.

Here is more detail and, for what they are worth, my thoughts

The glow coil is heating and works reliably when first starting…that is when the dryer is cold. After the system heats and tries to restart is when the problem occurs. I can observe the coil heat and glow to (what appears to be) the same yellow color as on the start cycle that works.
I do not, however, hear the click of the solenoid that would indicate the opening of the valve. As you suggest this could be a break in the wiring or coils. I wouldn’t expect such a failure to be intermittent and temperature dependent. Since I am getting the first burn cycle, the valve is working… unless it has an intermittent temperature problem.
That leaves the flame sensor and the temp sensors. I am not sure how these are supposed to work. (From here on are my speculations… please correct me if I am mistaken)
Judging from its location, the flame sensor either waits until the glowcoil is at temp before opening the gas, or cuts the power to the glow coil after the flame ignites. Given the name, the second seems more likely. So it could be the problem if the reset temp is too low. But, if this is true I would expect a cycle with an elongated time, rather than a first burn only.

Next are the temp sensors. The high temp sensor seems to work since it is shutting the system down, presumably after reaching max temp. If it weren’t resetting, I suspect the glow coil wouldn’t energize in an attempt to start the next cycle. Then there is something called a cycling sensor which, I guess, opens and closes to create the burn cycles. It could be the problem, but then why is the glow coil working on the next cycle.
 
  #4  
Old 06-22-03, 07:47 AM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 9,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 7 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Michael:

Your thinking is very logical. I appreciate that. Always seems to help with problem diagnostics. But it can often delay solving the problem.

I always prefer to suggest checking the if needed, replacing the least expensive parts first. Based upon the problem description, the solenoids would be my third suspected cause. Venting first and glow coil second.

Since all those appear fine, the solenoids would be next and the gas valve next. I suggest you replace both solenoids and most likely the problem will be resolved.

The tiny gas valve on the inlet gas supply pipe right next to the gas valve can be turned off at that location. Doing so will shut off the gas supply. The union connection nut is a reverse thread.

Turning it clockwise lossens it. The burner is attached to a plate which in turn is attached to the cabinet base. Detach the wires, remove the base plates screws and carefully remove the entire burner assembly.

Take the burner assembly and the make & model numbers to a local appliance parts store for replacement solenoid parts and gas valve testing if desired.

That is about the extent of problem resolving at this point. Doing the all above will help to correct the problem more quickly.
 
  #5  
Old 06-22-03, 08:02 AM
mwortman
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for your insight and recommendation and the logical comment… I think .

One more question:
Is there a way for me o bench test the components (solenoids, valve, etc.) to zero in on the culprit?

BTW where RU located in California?
 
  #6  
Old 06-22-03, 08:44 AM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 9,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 7 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Michael

The answer to your one more question can be a yes. Zeroing on the problem part. The details for technical diagnosing are much to difficult to explain in a text only format such as this and to detailed for some readers of this forum and your question.

That is not meant to imply neither you nor the other readers cannot comprehend the details but rather may not have the dryer down time to spare, testing equipment, proper procedures or time to spend. Testing which may prove to be inconclusive, etc.

Another factor is parts costs. Most are not that expensive to purchase, too difficultor complicated to replace, etc. Simply insuring the wires get reinstalled correctly and there are no gas leaks when reinstalling the gas valve.

All the above helps to expedite resolving the problem. Which is all the info most members want to fix the appliance, save money and be able to move on to other diy problems and tasks.

I do not have any further info to offer you on the problem. The forum has many other questions on the subject and the replies contained within them will also provide additional information.

Regarding my location within this "Shake & Bake" state is simply very near the coast line of Southern Ca. The ocean is great for the nautical inclinded person and the climate zone is perfect....
 
  #7  
Old 06-22-03, 10:45 AM
mwortman
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
thanks for your help
 
  #8  
Old 06-23-03, 06:12 AM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 9,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 7 Upvotes on 6 Posts
Hello Michael

You are most welcome to the help offered. Once you find the cause of the problem & fix it, post a reply back with the details.

In doing so every reader of the question learns from it.

Which is the main theme of the forum...
 
 

Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: