Dryer Noises

Old 09-25-03, 03:19 PM
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Gas dryer sounds like a machine gun


I tried to find a smilar problem in previous question but couldn't find it. My Kenmore gas dryer (Model:Soft Heat, Heavy duty plus?) makes machine gun sounds (I actually don' t know what machine gun sounds really like - I never heard it before). I opend the panel and try to find the source but... I don't know the age of the machine, but old. Is it fixable? Is it time for a new one? Thank you for your help.

Old 09-25-03, 08:05 PM
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Hello Kevin and Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic.

Drum noises are most likely because the slider/glider pads are wornout. Might also be the rollers and or rear bearing.

Noise Problems:
In most cases, it's the drum support rollers. Dryers also have slider/glider support pads, or rollers for the front of the drum. Also check <if your model is equipped with> a center rear drum support bearing. This may also be a part causing the noise. Any one of the parts or combination of parts mentioned above, may be a direct cause of a noise related problem.

Slide or glide pads are located on the inside of the front door panel. They are located on the housing that attaches to the inside front doors panel which supports the front of the drum. The top inside part of the drum rides on two and sometimes 3 of these pads or glides. Replacement of these parts should be easy on most models.

Keep in mind that the word 'drum' is a generic term. There are two types of drums. One is nothing more then a tube {tub without a bottom} The other type is an actual tub.

The tube type usually has rollers in the rear and the front is supported by glider pads on the door frame.

The tub type has a bearing in the rear for support. Some use rollers to support the front while others use glider pads as mentioned above.

You can tell the difference by looking inside the drum. If there are bolts of some type in the rear center, it's a drum. If not, it's a tube type drum.

Basically, you'll have to remove both the front panel and top panel. Then remove the lower rear access panel. Make a hand drawing of how the the belt is wound around the pulleys and then remove the belt. Then remove the drum.

Notice how the rollers are currently secured. Remove the securing device. The securing device may be a "C" clip or cotter pin. May have a washer against the roller. Methods vary.

Remove the rollers. Replace them with a new rollers and re-secure the rollers exactly as you found it. Then reassembly the entire dryer in reverse order of how you took it apart.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. Take will need the make, model and serial numbers.

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Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever a repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice
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Old 09-26-03, 07:10 AM
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Dear Sharp Advice?

Thanks for the reply. I have a few follow-up questions.
Based on the type of noise (real loud jack hammer), I thought the source was from motor, which is one of the most expensive parts, I suppose.

Where is the drum support bearings? How invoved is to replace?

The noise seemed to disappear when I applied tension (pressed down) to the tension pulley while it was runnig? What does that mean? Should I changed the pulley before anything? Or do you suggest I change rollers (should I change the roller shaft also?), tension pulley, bearings, etc?

Can I do all this without disconnecting the gas line and the back panel? Thanks again for your help.

Old 09-26-03, 08:02 AM
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Hello: Kevin

As I attempted to state and may not have done so clearly, the source of the noise, regardless of what type of noise it appears to be, can be caused by almost any thing that rotates, moves and or revolves.

The exact cause of the noise will not be known until the dryers cabinet is opened and all the rotating, revolving and or moving parts are inspected for wear, etc.

The fact that the noise disappeared when you applied tension to the pulley indicates the drum may be bouncing around on it's sliders/gliders and or rollers. There could be any number of other less likely causes, which will have to be determined by making a physical inspection.

Exactly which parts need to be replaced to resolve the noise issue cannot be done from my present location. You will need to do that aspect. If you cannot determine a direct cause, it might be best to consult with the local appliance parts dealer.

You most likely will have to remove several parts and take them with you to the store along with the make, model and serial numbers. Doing this will provide the answers from a pro whom deals with these matters daily.

Over purchasing and or replacement of low cost parts is sometimes worthwhile since the cost of labor is saved. Doing so also helps to insure not having to repeat any procedures again in the near future.

The mechanical aspects of part removals and replacements, you will have to deal with. Most are not all that difficult for the reasonably handy do it yourself person. You can do this project and the tasks involved.

Whether these repair tasks can or cannot be done with the gas on or off all depends on what is involved and how much rear access is available with the gas flex line attached to the gas supply. Same applies to the electrical source.

However, it is always highly suggested and recommended that both gas supply and electrical power be turned off and or disconnected during any and all repairs, for obvious reasons.

It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.
Old 09-30-03, 12:03 PM
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Dear Sharp Advice,

Thank you for your advice. I'd like to inform you that the dryer is finally fixed, but I'd like to share my stroy with the readers. I changed the rollers, tension pulley, and the belt as suggested. I tested the dryer without connecting to gas and the noise disappeard. However, as soon as I connect the dryer to the gas line (and therefore heated), the jack hammer-like noise started again. I finally discovered that the noise was comming from a cracked blower wheel hitting the housing. I don't know how this (sturdy) blower wheel ended up cracking (I found a toothbrush and a nail in the housing, though). It was not hard to replce it. Thanks for your advice. Without this forum, I wouldn't have attempted to fix it. Thanks.


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