Gas dryer stops after 10 minutes ???


  #1  
Old 11-04-03, 01:02 PM
rjw
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Gas dryer stops after 10 minutes ???

Hi, a problem that's been driving me crazy for the past week.

I have a 6 year old Amana LGA10AW Gas dryer that has developed a problem in the last week or so.

If I start to dry a load it will quit running after about 10 minutes.

- The gas burner is firing up just fine.
- The same problem exists if you disconnect the dryer vent (and I've cleaned the vent and the lint trap area).
- When it stops I cannot restart it for about 20 minutes (switch 'hums' if I try to restart).
- It seems to run fine (full 20 minute cycle) if I run it on the no-heat cycle.

I was suspicious that the motor was overheating, but if this was the case wouldn't the same problem occur on the no-heat cycle ?

Could this be a thermostat issue ? If the operating thermostat had failed, would that stop the dryer if it overheats, or would it just switch the gas off ?

Any sugesstions are welcome as to where to look as to what could be failing ?

Also where would I find a cicuit diagram for this model ?

Thanks,

Richard

xxxxxx@zzzz.net

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 11-09-12 at 05:43 AM.
  #2  
Old 11-04-03, 08:51 PM
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Hello rjw. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and our Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

If the drum stops rotating when you state that it stops, might be the motor overheating or a failed electrical connection in the timer unit.

Might also be a defective door safety switch. Door might not be closing fully and or remaining fully closed. Door may open or loosen slightly do to vibration, etc.

If the door switch does not remain fully closed {depressed} it will lose connection and shut the entire unit off. Dryer will shut down totally of the motor over heats since the motor stops running.

The no heat cycle simply adds less heat into the drum and the cabinet as well. The motor is in the cabinet and subjected to the heat in the cabinet as well.

No heat cycle also is controlled by the timer. The timer could also be defective. The internal conacts may be wornout, sticking ,etc.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes and solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, instructions, pictorials, schematics, which may be available online.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever a repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will quickly provide you with answers to questions & provide additional information on how to resolve the problem.

If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button to add any additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move your question to the top of the forums list of questions.

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Old signature removed... New signature added.....
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 11-09-12 at 05:47 AM.
  #3  
Old 11-05-03, 09:47 AM
rjw
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Thanks, I think I was thinking along the same lines, and keep coming back to the motor.

I'm thinking it's not the door switch as it seems to quit running a pretty much the same time every time, if it was the door switch I would expect to be able to restart straight away, which I can't. Every time I have to wait a while before restarting (except in no-heat) where all seems to run just fine.

I think the timer is ok, as it seems to quit after 10-12 minutes no matter where I start it from, if I start at 70 minutes it quits at 58, if I start at 20 minutes it quits at 8 minutes... I would think if the timer was sticking it would do it in the same place every time ?

I was wondering if the additional heat in the cabinet could be what was contributing to the motor overheating, but I'm not sure of what the normal operating temp of motor is and what delta in the ambient temperature would be needed to cause it to fail.

I think my next plan of action is to get access to the motor and see if it's drawing excessive current shortly before it fails.

Thanks again,

Richard.
 
  #4  
Old 11-08-12, 05:38 PM
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fixed or not ?

Richard. Did you fix it ?

Another dead end with no success story. I have a 1980's Maytag coin Gas Dryer that after about 2 1/2 loads it stops. The tenants unplug for an hour and do two more loads.

I cant find excessive lint or vent problems, sure seems like it would be a heat sensor of some kind.
dont want to cause any problems digging up old threads, hoping the author is still alive and can help.
 

Last edited by sdanville; 11-08-12 at 06:12 PM.
  #5  
Old 11-08-12, 06:05 PM
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Post your problem along with model number in a new thread. Digging up old threads causes a lot of confusion.
 
  #6  
Old 11-09-12, 06:16 AM
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Hello: sdanville.

WOW! You certainly did dig up an old thread from many moons (Indian term meaning Years) very long time ago...YIKES....

What or which author? Myself (whom is still here alive and well) or the long ago gone and never returned absentee missing member Richard?

The problem and/or condition you're describing may be caused by the thermal heat sensor located on top of the burner flames hood shield. This item hood shield is the cover around the burner flame. On it is a flame sensor that shuts off the burner if the burner flames are not pointing directly down the shield.

If the flames are weak and or not blown directly down wards in the shield around the burner, usually indicates a weak air flow can be caused by several different conditions described below.

A slow blower motor rotation speed, restricted exhaust internal at the blowers cage wheel, outside vent hoods flapper vent trap door that does not open (stuck shut) or fully open and/or the heat sensor in the venting system inside the dryer. Usually an over heat sensor (in the dryers internal venting system inside the dryer) is located in or on the sheet metal exhaust vent discharge tube just before the warm air exists the back of the dryer.

Hope you have not already created a new thread. That is what is suppose to be done for each new member. However, if you have already done so, there would be yet more confusions... Anyway, hope the above helps some.

Additional Info In Dryer Sticky Note: HERE

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.

 
  #7  
Old 11-09-12, 06:42 AM
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Mr Sharptube.

Thank you Mr Sharpadvice. I will start diagonostics with the free things.
move the dryer a little farther from the wall was one comment on yahoo..
Vacuum it inside and out and buy a new flexible exhaust tube. If that fails I will
replace the heat sensor which you described so well thank you.

2) By Author I was referring to Mr Richards the man with the problem that
did no follow up.

3) no i did not start a new thread as Richards problem was close to mine.
I thought it best when people do google searches the possible cures be on the same thread.
I get conflicting advice on how to use the forums just like conflicting
cures. All the commentary is respected.
 
 

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