gas dryer intermittently heats - help!

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  #1  
Old 02-10-04, 06:42 AM
silverlake
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gas dryer intermittently heats - help!

Hi everyone. I have a whirlpool gas dryer that is having some problems. About 2 months ago the dryer had no heat. I replaced the thermal fuse and viola - problem solved. It worked great for a couple of months, and now when we put a load in it heats up for about 5 minutes and shuts off. It will then continue to run and fifteen minutes later, fire back up heat for 3 minutes or so and turn off. Needless to say, drying anything is taking forever! Is this a thermostat problem? Or a solenoid problem? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
SL
 
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Old 02-10-04, 08:00 AM
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Hello silverlake. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and our Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Most common problem and first place to check is the dryers venting system. It's very possible the only problem is a restricted exhaust vent.

To verify if this is or is not the problem, remove all the existing vent from the dryer. The end result will be the dryer is not connected to the venting system.

Once you have done this, dry a load of clothing and note the findings. If the dryer operates correctly and the current problem appears to be resolved, the venting system is restricted and or clogged.

Clearing it by any means necessary will resolve the problem. Check the entire system. This also includes the exhaust vent hood outside. It has a flapper that may not be opening fully or not at all. Locate any restriction within the entire exhaust system and clean out all lint. Replace exhaust vent tubing as needed.

Read the other questions within this forum on the subjects of dryers for further information. The information contained within the already asked questions contain all the required information.

If you need further assistance, use the reply button to add any additional information or ask additional questions after attempting the correctional method or methods offered. Be sure to post back the results of your findings before asking additional questions.

If the information contained herein does not resolve the problem, we can than move onwards to more detailed and difficult problem possibilities and solutions.

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  #3  
Old 02-13-04, 09:00 AM
silverlake
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O.K. I unhooked the dryer from all venting, took apart the internal venting and cleaned it out also. There was a little bit of blockage at the drum outlet. Threw in a load of clothes and cranked it up! Nice bright ignitor glow, and then flame...... but only for about 4 minutes, and then out it went. Ignitor glowed brightly again about 2 minutes later but no ignition. This happened several times over the 10 minute period that I observed. Thanks in advance for the help!

SL
 
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Old 02-13-04, 02:05 PM
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Hi: SL

Making some progress here. Next possible items is the two solenoids on top of the gas valve. There are two...both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.

You'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the holddown cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.

Defective Gas Valve:
Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.

CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!

Dryers with touch pad controls use electronic computerized circuit boards. The entire circuit board could be removed and taken to the local appliance parts dealer for testing and or replacement.

Flame Sensor:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.

Do not soley rely on this test to prove the part is functioning correctly. The only proof positive method to be sure the part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part and have the local appliance parts store person do the testing.

It's always possible there is another defective part or switch that is in line electrically between the timer and the glow coil that is defective, incorrectly set, etc. and not allowing current to flow through the entire circuit. You may also need to verify if there is electrical continuity through the entire wiring system.

Be sure to unplug the power first. Each wire should be checked through it's entire length. Check each electrical connection, terminal and junction connection. Also check for loose wires between the glow coil, gas valve and every switch.
 
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Old 02-14-04, 11:41 AM
silverlake
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Allright - the flame sensor came off, I tested the continuity and received a short message - the circuit is not open. Now being a novice DIYer, does this mean that the part is defective or is the circuit supposed to be closed and then open once heat is detected to allow for ignition?
Thanks,

SL
 
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Old 02-14-04, 02:34 PM
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Hi: SL

The flame senser circuit should not be opened. The circuit must be closed to allow current to flow through. Most likely the two solenoids are the cause.

The solenoids work in pairs and must be replaced in pairs. They are not difficult to replace nor costly. Each solenoid is slighly different than the other and connot be interchanged, which makes them easy to replace.

Try testing them for continuity but this type of test usually does not provide proof postive they are working. Heat causes the break in the internal wiring and the circuit than drops out.

When that happens, the burner shuts down and the hot surface ignitor cycles on and off to no avail. A quick stop at the local appliance parts store, purchasing the solenoids and installing them usually will resolve the problem. Worth a try.
 
  #7  
Old 02-20-04, 08:04 AM
silverlake
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SUCCESS!!!!!! I replaced the solenoids - most parts stores refer to these as gas valve coils if anyone runs into the same problem - put the dryer back together, and it works great! Now to tackle that huge pile of laundry. Anyone willing to help with that?

Thanks again for the help!

SL
 
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Old 02-20-04, 09:04 AM
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Hi: SL

Great News! Glad to know the dryer is now fixed and you did it yourself. Thanks for posting back the final results and the parts used to get the dryer working again. Other members reading your question learn from the information exchanges made.

They too can use the same diagnostic procedures to locate problems like and or similar to those in your dryer. We all learn by sharing, helping and caring. Savings money, taking pride in a successfully accomplished do it yourself project too....
 
  #9  
Old 05-07-04, 02:10 AM
bubbah
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Thumbs up

I too had a similar problem with a Whirlpool gas dryer (LGR7646EQ3). Dryer would work from a cold start but would stop functioning after 5 minutes. Issue turned out to be the solenoids which were easy to replace. While I was at it, cleaned the large lent deposits inside the dryer.

Thanks Sharp Advice for answering questions and providing insight!


Used the following webpages for reference:

Burner Assembly:
http://www.partselect.com/Schematics...l/1Y8RQRGG.gif

Disassembling the dryer:
http://repair2000.com/wpoolbelt.htm
 
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