>Dryer Information + *Fuel Conversion*< >Info Contained Here<

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Old 02-18-04, 03:29 PM
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Arrow >Dryer Information + *Fuel Conversion*< >Info Contained Here<

Hello and Welcome to the Gas Appliances forum topic.

Gas & Electric Dryer Servicing, Repair Help And Information Contained Here.

Also contains help with Electric Dryers, Parts, Installation Supplies, Water Heating Pages, Gas and Oil Heating Pages, Manufacturers Web Sites, Appliance Parts & Do-It-Yourself Accessories Shopping Center, Etc.

All About Gas Appliances:
Gas Appliances Q & A | DoItYourself.com

Below is basic help information pertaining to all electric/gas dryers. The information is written in an easy to understand format. Taken from multiple sources and based upon routine appliance diagnostic services.

How To Buy And Service Natural Gas Appliances:
http://www.cngcorp.com/products_tech...ppliances.html

It's highly suggested checking the basics before assuming there is a mechanical problem or part failure prior to attempting any repairs.

How Appliances Work:
Howstuffworks "Home Appliances"

Dryer Installation Information From The "How Stuff Works" Web Site:
Howstuffworks

Gas And Electric Dryers. How They Work Pages:
Home Page. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
Page 1. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
Page 2. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
Page 3. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
Page 4. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
Page 5. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
Page 6. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
Page 7. HowStuffWorks "How Clothes Dryers Work"
(Page Seven Is All Links To Additional Help and Information)

Safety Concerns:
Be sure the dryer is disconnected from the electrical power source before attempting any inspections and or repairs. Turn off the gas supply if there will be any repairs made.

If you smell gas, do not try to light any appliances in that area. Do not turn on or turn off any electrical switch. Immediately contact your gas supplier. If you cannot contact the gas supplier, call the local fire department.

Do not use or store gasoline, flammable liquids or any products which produce flammable vapors near a gas dryer or any other any gas appliance.

Gas Check Program:
http://www.npga.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=574

Fire Safety Manual And Information:
http://www.npga.org/i4a/pages/index.cfm?pageid=962

Helpful Dryer Problem Diagnosing and Repairing Information:

DRYER DOES NOT RUN:
If the dryer does not run at all, be sure the door is fully closed. Check the selections on the control panel. Is the electrical cord plugged in?

Is the electric turned on? Open the door and re close it. Door safety switch may not be fully recessed...in the closed position.

Attempt to restart the dryer. If the dryer still does not operate, has a fuse blown in the electrical panel and/or a breaker switch tripped? Check the electrical control panel. Check for a fuse in the dryer. Not all dryers have a fuse. Most do not have any fuses.

Broken belt. If the belt is broken, the dryer will not run at all. There is a micro safety switch on the belt tensioning arm. When the belt brakes, the tensioning arm springs away from the switch. All dryer action stops. Belt replacement is required. *Refer to belts below.

The start button {if equipped with one} could also be defective. To determine this, the appliance must be unplugged from the electrical power source first.

Access to the button will have to be made by removing the back panel. A continuity test can be performed. Connect the leads from the meter to the wires. Set the meter to ohms. Needle should swing all the way to the right when the button is depressed.

The timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an volt/ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely solely on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

If the dryer does not start up and the belt is not broken, suspect the door safety switch. To test, unplug the machine from the electrical power source. Remove the front panel. Access the wires clips on door safety switch terminals. Test for continuity using an ohm and or continuity test meter.

There should be continuity when the button is depressed. If not, the switch is defective and needs to be replaced. Operating the push button by hand during the test will also determine if it working constantly as the button is pushed in and let out. The results can be seen on the tester.

If there is a fuse, when removed from it's holder and or not passing current, under a visual inspection only, the internal filament looks and appears fine. A continuity test may reveal an open circuit in a fuse that otherwise looks visually fine.

Dryers with touch pad controls use electronic computerized circuit boards. This part could be removed and taken to the local appliance parts dealer for testing. Repairing is not often an option. Replacement is the only option.

DRYER DOES NOT HEAT OR DOES NOT PROVIDE MUCH HEAT:
Check the control panel selections.
Set the controls to heat. Check the heat settings.
Check the gas supply to be sure it is turned on.
Clean the lint filter. Clean and inspect the exhaust ducting.

Be sure the hood flapper outside is opening and moving freely. Be sure there is no bends, kinks and/or restrictions to the ducting and/or in the venting.

Dryers with excessively long drying times:

New home - Broken Kenmore Dryer - DoItYourself.com Community Forums

http://forum.doityourself.com/kitche...y-clothes.html

http://forum.doityourself.com/kitche...wont-heat.html

http://forum.doityourself.com/kitche...y-clothes.html

Check the hot surface glow igniter. It should be glowing upon first start up. If not, first check the control panel. If the igniter is still not glowing, read the hot surface glow igniter section below.

Fuse-able Link. Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

The solenoids (coils) may be defective. There are two solenoids. Both are on top of the gas valve. All terminals on both solenoids (coils) must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

Remove both coils off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs. Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Defective appliance gas valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire gas valve assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option, if the gas valve is found and/or determined to be defective.

Flame sensor could be the problem. This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glowing hot surface igniter (HSI) to not function or cause the problem of not heating. You can test this part with a continuity tester and/or an ohm meter.

The temperature control sensors may be defective. They should be located on the fan blowers housing. There is also a moisture sensor and a high limit temp sensor. Any one of them could be defective and/or inoperative. These sensor components are solid state. No moving parts. Thus they are not prone to failure very often but they can fail occasionally. Testing is required to determine there state of operation.

Sensors can be checked for electrical continuity using a ohm meter. So can the temp selector switch. Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off or the appliance is unplugged from the wall receptacle FIRST.

CAUSES FOR DRYER NOISES:

1) WORN BELT:
Belts may also cause squealing/slipping sounds or noises. If this is the case, belt replace must be done. Be aware, some belts have two different sides. One side must face up on the drum.

A) Regarding the belts positioning over, under and/or around the pulleys, my best suggestion is to make a hand drawing of the locations and positions prior to removing the old belt.

B) Refer to the drawing when installing the new replacement belt to be positive it is correctly positioned on the drum and routed on the pulleys. Then store that drawing within the dryers upper rear removable panel for future use.

2) DRUM ROLLERS, GLIDERS & SLIDER PADS:
Noise is a common problem when the drum rollers, rear bearings, gliders or slider pads wear out. Slider or glider pads are located on the inside of the front door panel. Replacement of these parts should be easy on most models.

Drum rollers will have clips or pins which can be removed with needle nose pliers. There are or may also be brass or bronze bushings on the roller stems that the wheels attach to.

3) REAR BEARING:
Some dryers have a rear drum bearing. Noise occurs when the part wears out. Replacement is the only solution. Belt removal is required. Refer to BELTS above.

Rear drum support bearings. Not all brands or models have rear bearings. If the drum has screws in the back center of the drum, it has a rear bearing.

If there isn't any rear bearing, the drum is a rotating tube which will have rear rollers supporting the tube or a bracket the tube rotates in. May be supported and sealed with a felt strip, etc.

4) BLOWER FAN:
Blower fan may be loose on the motors shaft. Blower fan may have a cracked center, objects in the fan cage housing, etc.

HOT SURFACE GLOW IGNITER: (HSI)
If all the controls are set correctly on the front control panel and the dryer is running but the hot surface glow coil fails to glow, the glow coil will need to be replaced.

A hot surface glow igniter, working correctly, will glow an intense bright yellow orange in color. Too much orange, any reddish color and/or a dull orange means the glow igniter is weak. A weak igniter will not allow the gas control valve to operate. Valve will not open and allow gas to flow.

To remove the igniter, turn off the gas first. Unplug the dryer from the electrical wall plug. Then remove the entire gas valve as an assembly.

Next, remove the glow igniter from the burner assembly. Or take the entire assembled part to the local appliance retail parts store for a replacement igniter.

You can replace the igniter yourself. First unplug the appliance. Loosen or remove the screws securing the glow igniter. Follow the two wires attached to the igniter. At the end farthest from the igniter will be a wire pull apart quick disconnect.

Disconnect the igniter at that point. Install the new igniter exactly as you found the existing igniter. Replace each part in reverse order. Plug in the appliance and turn it on. The burner now should work.

Be advise that some new replacement igniter's do not come with quick disconnect ends. In this case, it's okay to cut off the quick disconnect from the old igniter and attach it to the new igniter.

Simply clip off the wires several inches above the disconnect on the old igniter, attach them to the wires of the new igniter and wire nut the two ends together.

Repeat the process to attach the other set of wires and wire nut them together. There is no positive nor negative {polarity} to be concerned with.

Glow igniter's are fragile & they break easily. Handle and install the new igniter carefully. Glow igniter's are a non returnable and non refundable electric component.

CONTROL KNOB ADVANCES SLOWLY:
For most dryers this is normal operation when set in the Auto Dry cycle. Once the load begins to dry the timer control will begin to advance. The rate of advancement will begin slowly at first because of the moisture content.

As the load dries, the advancement will advance more quickly. Dryers with moisture sensors will control the timer advancement in cycles where that function is operational. All normal operations are based upon the cycles selected.

LOADS DRY UNEVENLY:
Seams, pockets and heavy fabric areas may not dry equally compared to other items in the load. This is a normal condition. Either remove the dried items or use a cycle that allows more drying time.

MOTORS:
Before attempting any motor removals or repairs, try turning the drum by hand. It should have a slight drag with no binding. Make several rotations.

If the drum rotates well by hand, but the machine does not operate normally and the door switch is not the problem or cause, the motor may be burned out or defective. If the drum exhibits heavy drag, binding, jamming or grinding type noises etc. there could be drum roller parts worn out and/or a damaged and/or jammed fan blower, etc.

Basic procedures for removing the motor is to unplug the dryer first. Remove the exhaust vent line. Then remove the rear access panel. HINT: The belt will loop over and or under a spring tensioning arm. That arm connects to a tiny micro switch that must be closed for the motor to operate.

Do not forget to make a hand drawing on paper of exactly how the belt is looped over, around and under each pulley before removing the belt. Same applies to all electrical fittings that need to be moved or removed.

Then remove the motor. Once an electrical test is done and it can be confirmed that the motor is defective, it can either be replaced with a new motor or possibly rebuilt. Electric motor repair shops are list in the phone directory.

If the motors shaft does not rotate when attempting to turn it by hand, with the motor removed from the machine, the motor is worn out beyond repair. Replace it with an OEM motor. If the motors shaft does not freely rotate or rotate at all, check the blower fan housing. May be clogged with excessive lint or an object of some type is jamming the blower fan, etc.

ODORS:
Odors may be caused by the usage of petroleum based products. Products like oil based paints, varnishes, stains, cleaning chemicals, adhesives or any flammable petroleum based product, it will cause an odor.

If the odor smells like a kerosene odor it is usually nothing to worry about. Especially if you are presently or have been recently using an type of petroleum based and/or oil based product.

The odor is caused by the burning of the invisible vapors the product gives off until it dries or cures. Ventilating the area or entire house helps to resolve the problem.

After using any product with a petroleum base it may take several days for the product to dry fully and cure. After being inside for awhile, you will get use to the smell and do not smell the fumes. Perfectly normal.

If clothes retain the smell after drying, at the end of the drying cycle, use the "No Heat" or "Air Fluff" cycle for about 10 minutes to ventilate the fumes before removing the clothes.

Doing so will vent out the odor from the clothes. Be sure to return the timer back to the prior heat setting when done.

If you have any doubts or none of the above conditions applies, contact your local gas utility and ask them for an appliance leak service check to determine the cause. The phone number to the gas company and or propane supplier will be on your bill.

Dryer Venting Page: Howstuffworks

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Rigid Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
#of elbows:
0 elbows...44 feet
1 elbow....34 feet
2 elbows..26 feet
3 elbows..20 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...34 feet
1 elbow....26 feet
2 elbows..20 feet
3 elbows..14 feet

Maximum Exhaust Vent Lengths:
4 Inch Flexible Metal Ducting with 4 Inch Vent Hood.
0 elbows...24 feet
1 elbow....20 feet
2 elbows..16 feet
3 elbows..12 feet

Above With 2 Inch Vent Hood:
0 elbows...20 feet
1 elbow....16 feet
2 elbows..12 feet
3 elbows....8 feet

DRYER SERVICE AND SAFETY TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, down loadable repair and or owners manuals, which may be available online.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers in this forum. Doing so will provide you with additional answers to questions & helpful information on how to diagnose conditions and resolve the problems.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers.

Electric Dryer Prior Posts Help:
Read This Before Posting: >Electric Dryer Information< - DoItYourself.com Community Forums

DIY'S Appliance Parts and Accessories Shopping Center.
Product Information Center Product Info and Reviews | DoItYourself.com

Consumer Reports Homepage:
Consumer Reports: Expert product reviews and product Ratings from our test labs

Consumer Reports Appliances:
http://www.consumerreports.org/main...D=1119643966105

>>>Conversions From Natural Gas To Propane Or Conversions Propane To Natural Gas.<<<

Dryer conversion from or to either Nat gas gas or to propane gas is cost effective, easy to do and very possible. The task is or can be a do it yourself project, if you're careful, use cautions, pay attention to details and are handy with commonly found shop or garage small hand held tools.

To summarize:
1 Turn off the gas behind the machine! <MUST BE DONE>

2 Disconnect the electrical connection. <MUST BE DONE>

3 Open the cabinet. <No set procedure>
Some brands & some models the burner has an access panel on the lower right or left front of the dryer. Other types require the entire front panel be removed to access the burner gas valve.

Basic Step By Step Instructions:
Usually a small access door in the lower right hand or left hand corner on some brands or models. Remove or open the access panel. May have a sheet metal screw at the base securing it. On some brands and/or models the entire front panel must be removed. Look for screws in the door frame and/or at the base of the front panel. May have screws in both locations on some machines.

Some brands and/or models the top lid must first be lifted up wards. On many of these machines there will be no screws in the door frame. Usually only two screws are the base of the machine. Some no screws anywhere external. In this case, if there are two screws at the base remove them.

Then insert a thin blade or old credit card between the top lid and front panel about two or three inches in wards from each corner. Push in wards to release the clips while lifting up wards on the top lid. Each clip can be released separately or both at once.

Once the front panel is removed or access door is opened, look to the right of the gas control valve. There will be a tiny gas shut off valve on the gas supply pipe. Turn that tiny lever so it is across the pipe. Doing so turns off the gas to the control valve.

Than remove the wire quick disconnects from the solenoids on top of the gas valve. Than loosen and remove the hex nut on the control valve to separate the gas supply pipe from the control.

FYI:
That hex nut is reverse threaded. Which means the hex nut turns opposite (counter clock wise) to loosen it and clockwise to tighten it. Use a backup wrench to hold the pipe while turning that nut counter clock wise.

Once the pipe is removed, there will be two or more sheet metal screws holding down the plate the control is mounted onto. Remove those screws.

Than carefully remove the burner out enough to get to the wires attached to the flame sensor, which is attached to the burners shroud cover. Remove that wire quick disconnect also.

4 Remove the entire gas valve assembly.
< It will be attached to a plate with 3 or more small screws>

5 Take the entire gas valve assembly with you to the local appliance parts store.

A suggestion: <Write down & take with you the brand name, model & serial numbers>

6 Obtain a natural gas orifice of the correct Btu rating.

7 Install the orifice on the gas valve.
<Which is in the front end of the burner on the gas valves body after unscrewing & removing the current orifice.>

8 Than convert the built into the gas valve regulator. By removing the cap on top of the tower and turning it over and reinstalling it. Cap should be marked "N" for natural gas and "L" or "LP" for propane.

Turning the towers cap over converts the regulator. Side of the cap facing you indicates the fuel type it is set for. Not all regulators are convertible in this manner. Check with any local appliance parts store. Most regulators are convertible but not all, depending upon gas valves manufacturer and the year of manufacture.

Some gas control valves do not have regulators that are convertible while some have a set screw to turn to another position or a lever to turn to another position. Several variables are possible.

TIP 1:
If the brand and model has a front burner access panel door, the gas can be turned off at the very tiny gas shut off valve located to right side of the gas valve on the incoming supply pipe.

TIP 2:
The gas line disconnection can also be at the gas valve ahead of the tiny shut off isolation valve. The union is counter threaded. Which means it turns clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten it. Just the complete opposite of a any other threaded connection.

HINT:
Use a back up wrench to disconnect the supply pipe connection. Hold one part stationary while turning the other. Reverse the procedure to re connect and SOAP test for leaks when done with the tiny valve turned back on.

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.

Recently posted questions with answers pertaining to fuel conversions:
>Dryer Information + *Fuel Conversion*< Info Contained Here< - DoItYourself.com Community Forums

Convert Dryer to LP gas - DoItYourself.com Community Forums

http://forum.doityourself.com/kitche...uel+conversion

http://forum.doityourself.com/kitche...uel+conversion

http://forum.doityourself.com/kitche...uel+conversion

http://forum.doityourself.com/kitche...uel+conversion

Cautionary Safety Reminder Note: Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.

Helpful Advice and Suggestions:
1.
Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

2.
Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will quickly provide you with a additional information on how to resolve the problem.

3.
Check all parts for wear and or the need for replacement while the task is in process. Especially if the model requires opening the entire cabinet to access the internal parts.

4.
For additional information, repair instructions etc. read the other questions within this forum pertaining to dryer conversions. The question has already been asked many times.

5.
Use the Search option located in the upper right hand corner. Type in the key words and search this entire forum topic for all posts on the problem or condition with any gas appliance.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 02-13-10 at 06:39 AM. Reason: Updating 02-13-2010
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  #2  
Old 11-10-05, 06:30 PM
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Arrow Basic Dryer Belt Replacing & Cabinet Access Information

Fortunately dryer belts do not often break. However, if and when they do, there usually isn't much, if any prior warning. Once the belt breaks the entire dryer becomes unusable. Worse yet, exactly how the belt is looped over, under and around the pulleys may become a major problem for the first time do-it-yourself dryer repair.

In order to begin the procedure of replacing the belt, first unplug the electrical cord or turn off the electrical power. Carefully slide the machine for wards away from the wall or out of the space it may be in to access the rear of the machine.

You'll then have to lift the top up and till it back wards. You'll also have to remove the front doors entire panel. Each brand uses a different method to secure each panel. On some the front panel has screws inside the door frame and may have two below the exterior panel in front.

On these dryers, remove the screws located within the door frame. Then locate the screws at the base of the front panel close to the floor. Once these screws are removed, you should be able to till the door frame out wards from the bottom and allow the top portion to slide down wards slightly.

Be aware that regardless of which brand your machine is, there will be two wires attached to the door safety switch. The switch is secured to the door frame. Do not remove the entire switch. Only remove the two wires.

Some brands use two clips in the front of the top panel where it meets the top of the door panel. The two clips will be located in between the seems of the two panels a few inches from either corner.

The clips are spring loaded and will need to be pushed in wards to release the top panel. While pushing in on the clip, lift the panel end up wards to release that clip. Repeat the procedure on the opposite end.

TIP:
An old credit card or similar item can be used to push in on the clips. Do not force the clips back too far. Clip breakage can occur.

Some models have both clips and screws. Some you have to lift the top by releasing the clips and unscrew the front panel from inside. Check all possibilities but do not force either panel to open or lift up.

Prior to entirely removing the front door panel, take special note on how the front of the drum is supported by the front door panel as you remove the panel. Each brand varies. Knowing how the front of the drum is supported prior to completely removing the door panel will help during the reassembly procedure.

Some brands use drum support rollers and the front door panel acts only as a seal between the two parts. Others use the front door panel as the only means of front drum support. On these types, the top of the drum fits over the extended support attached to the inside of the door panel. On the top of this part will be glider pads which the inside front lip of the drum rests on.

The lower front part of the drum rests inside a groove on the drum support. This part has a felt pad inserted in the groove. The lip of the drum must be inside the groove in between the felt pad.

Some dryer brands use a tube for a drum which has no bottom. While others use a true drum which has a bottom. Knowing this can be an important factor to the novice do-it-yourself person installing a belt and or replacing drum supports.

To determine which type your dryer has, open the door and look inside the drum. If there is a circle of bolts or screws centered in the base of the drum, there will be a bearing supporting the rear. This is a true drum.

Another shortcut method is to leave the door opened, depress the door safety switch or button and start the dryer. Notice if the inside back wall rotates with the drum. If it rotates with the drum, it's a true drum. If the back wall remains stationary, it's a tube type drum.

TIP:
The entire drum, whichever type is used, does not have to be completely removed to replace the belt. Lifting the front up slightly and sliding the belt over the drum is the best method.

In the back of the dryer will be a lower access vented sheet metal panel attached with sheet metal screws. This panel will have to be removed. So will the exhaust vent tube on rear discharge models.

Once you have the top open, front and rear panels removed, make a hand drawing of exactly how the belt is woven under, over and around each pulley prior to removing it. Failure to do this can make the re-installation of the new belt a rather difficult procedure.

TIP:
To avoid this possible broken belt problem, check it's condition during the routine maintenance. Routine maintenance should be done at least every two years to ensure good service from the appliance.

During routine maintenance or at any time servicing the appliance, whether you change the belt or not, make a hand drawn diagram of the belts position on each pulley. Also make one for the wiring diagram, if one isn't found on the appliance. Usually a diagram is located inside the control panels rear access cover.

***If you have to hand make the diagrams, place them in a zip lock sandwich bag and tape the bag to the back of the machine.***

Since it is always necessary to remove all the panels to replace a belt, it would be a good idea to inspect the drum rollers or glide pads found on the front door panel or front drum supports. Replace any that are worn out while the dryer is already apart.

Rear center drum support bearings require no routine maintenance service. However, when they wear out, replacement is required. The entire drum will need to be removed. One half of the bearing is attached the the back of the dryer cabinet. The other half of the bearing assembly is attached the the drum. Notice how it comes apart and reinstall the new part per the instructions enclosed with the new bearing.

It's also a good idea to clean out any and all lint from inside the cabinet, fan area and exhaust vent during any dryer repair. Lint removal from the exhaust venting system should be done at least every two years to maintain top drying performance and reduce the risk of lint fire within the dryer cabinet.

Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances. Patronize our online sponsor for additional information and parts sales.

Refer to the manufacturers online web site for additional product information, problem solving methods, pictorials drawings and schematics, should they be available online.

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.

Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 08-24-06 at 08:43 AM.
  #3  
Old 11-10-05, 06:46 PM
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Thread Starter
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
Received 5 Votes on 4 Posts
Arrow Door Safety Switch Testing

My personal method for diagnosing problems is always check for the least likely possible cause. Doing so avoids replacing parts needlessly.

Especially parts which will not be the direct cause of the problem, cost plenty, difficult to install and not solve the actual problem. Before replacing that switch, I suggest checking the door safety switch. The entire dryer will not operate if that door safety switch is defective or not fully closing.

Here is one method to test the door safety switch:
Open the door and use one finger to push and hold the button recessed. Than push the start button. If the dryer does start up and begins operating, the door switch isn't being fully recessed. Check the door, door hinges, etc. The door must close fully and tightly or the button will not be fully recessed.

If the dryer does not start up, suspect the door switch.
To test that switch do this:
FIRST, unplug the machine from the electrical power source.
Remove the front panel.
Access the wires clips on the safety switches terminals.
Test for continuity on the two clips on the switch using an ohm meter and or continuity test meter.
Push in the button. There should be continuity.
If not, the switch is defective and needs to be replaced.
Operating the push button by hand during the test will also determine if the switch is working constantly and repeatedly, as the button is pushed in and let out. The results can be seen on the tester.

Other possible causes:
Start Button:
The start button could also be defective. To determine this, the appliance must be unplugged from the electrical power source first. Access to the button will have to be made by removing the back panel. Then a continuity test can be performed.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes and solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, instructions, pictorials, schematics, which may be available online.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. Take will need the make, model and serial numbers.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever any repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Energy Conservation Consultant & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 01-18-10 at 08:40 AM. Reason: Updating. 01-18-2010
  #4  
Old 11-10-05, 07:04 PM
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Exclamation Flex Gas Line Leaks

CAUSES AND CONCERNS:

The reason flex is allowed on some appliances and not all appliances is likely only a local code. Mostly because those a flex gas line is used on are likely appliances that will be moved for repairs or cleaning behind, etc.

Soap, of most varieties, is caustic. Some contain lyes and other chemicals or agents. The corrosive actions of these chemicals over time can and do deteriorate the flex metals used in the construction of the flex line.

Washing off the soap used to check for leaks is a good habit for the service agents and should also be done by everyone else. Not an often relayed bit of info but important to know and remember to do.

Most clothes washing soaps, when they come into contact with flex connectors and tiny bits of moisture, over time often cause leaks in flex lines made of spun brass or bronze. Tiny fizzer leaks are often found on flex connectors as a result of soap corrosions which cause customers to call in gas odor complaints. And rightly so.

Therefore, regardless of the material used to make flex lines, the connectors should be washed clean of any soap used to check for leaks.

No connector should be allowed to remain in contact with cement floors or metal surfaces. Which means must not lay on the floor as a final support. Excess line should be rolled or coiled up and supported off any flooring of almost any type or leaks can developer.

OTHER CONCERNS:
Electrolysis is yet another factor of concern.

All electrical appliances have the potential to have tiny amounts of electrical currents. This condition is known as "Electrolysis." The tiny currents can be transmitted through any metal connectors.

Appliance grounding is not assured through many gas supply lines. Steel and or galvanized gas supply underground pipes installed by natural gas utility companies, are insulated to prevent electrolysis to protect there piping systems.

Electrical wall outlets do not totally ensure complete grounding. Not all 3 prong plugs can ensure grounding either. The box and the wall outlet must be grounded. There must be a ground wire in the box and in the electrical wire. Some appliances come with separate grounding wire kits. Especially washing machines or machines which water is used in or around water.

Thus one reason for not allowing connectors to remain in contact with cement flooring. There may not be any grounding in the wall receptacle. Another is moistures which can seep through cement floors or anyplace where water may come into contact with the connectors.

An example is: A washer flooding and or over flowed, has or had a broken or leaking water inlet hose lines or any other type of water leak. The water can short out the flex line to the cement flooring causing corrosion to set in.

Flex lines are required in some parts of the world where earth quakes can happen or do happen. In these cases, some movement of the appliance is likely.

Flex lines allow those movements to happen without line damage and or pipe thread damages, which can result from solid piping being used.

In some parts of the country, water heaters are required to be raised above the floor level for fire safety. Usually 18 inches above floor levels. Some codes require water heaters (and other appliances) to be strapped to the wall beams, as an earth quake movement prevention.

Always check with local codes. Codes vary widely and can be required in any mix of requirements based on areas. Many codes change often and are upgraded based upon several factors specific to local areas.

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 08-24-06 at 09:54 AM.
  #5  
Old 11-19-05, 07:46 AM
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Arrow No Heat, Not Much Heat or Excessive Drying Times

When any dryer (Gas or Electric) is heating but the dryers burner or heating element shuts off too soon, chances are the venting system is restricted. Very common problem. The test is to remove the entire vent from the dryer and dry a normal load of clothes.

If the same problem does not occur, the venting system is restricted. Cleaning and clearing the venting system is required. Do not forget to check the vent hoods flapper door. Flapper must be freely able to move.

If the same problem happens, the problem is elsewhere within the dryer. Best bet before attempting to replace parts, is to do the testing suggested above. It is the most common problem and least costly to resolve the problem.

If that does not resolve the problem, read the existing questions on the subject of dryers that do not provide heat or provide much heat. Doing so will quickly provide additional information on how to resolve the problem.

It's also possible one or both of the solenoids could be defective and or the gas valve could be defective. There are two solenoids... both are on top of the gas valve. All terminals on both solenoids must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs. Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing.

CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item. Replacement is the only option, if found to be defective.

Flame Sensor could be the problem. This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow igniter to not function or cause the problem your describing. Premature shut down. You can test the sensor with a continuity tester or an ohm meter. Should Be fully continuity.

Below is almost all the likely causes for the problem causes, possible solutions & help links.

Defective Solenoids:
There are two Solenoids. Both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.

You'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.

Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons.

Timers also have cams that open and close those contact points. If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem you're having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.

If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely solely on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

Fuse-able Link:
Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. Take with you the make, model and serial numbers.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes and solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, instructions, pictorials, schematics, which may be available online.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. Take with you the make, model and serial numbers.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances. Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs.

Regards & Good Luck.
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DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.

FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.

TIP:
The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential problems, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 10-30-07 at 07:19 AM. Reason: Updating. 10-30-2007
  #6  
Old 11-25-05, 02:14 PM
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Arrow Accessing Internal Dryer Cabinet

DRYER INTERNAL CABINET ACCESS:

To open up (access internal parts) in a dryer:
On some brands and/or models the entire front panel must be removed. Look for screws in the door frame and/or at the base of the front panel. May have screws in both locations on some machines.

Some brands and/or models the top lid must first be lifted up wards. On many of these machines there will be no screws in the door frame. Usually only two screws are the base of the machine. Some no screws anywhere external. In this case, if there are two screws at the base remove them.

Then insert a thin blade or old credit card between the top lid and front panel about two or three inches in wards from each corner. Push in wards to release the clips while lifting up wards on the top lid. Each clip can be released separately or both at once.

FUEL CONVERSION INFORMATION:
Please read post #1 above and number 7 below.

Either conversion steps, whether from natural gas to propane or propane to natural gas is basically all the same. Each requires the proper orifice available at any local appliance parts stores in you area. Dealers are listed in the phone books.

Next a conversion of the regulator. This is done by removing the cap on top of the tower and turning it over and reinstalling it. Cap should be marked "N" for natural gas and "L" or "LP" for propane.

Turning the towers cap over converts the regulator. Side of the cap facing you indicates the fuel type it is set for. Not all regulators are convertible in this manner. Check with any local appliance parts store. Some gas control valves do not have regulators that are convertible while some have a set screw to turn to another position or a lever to turn to another position. Several variables are possible.

Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, PDF down loadable repair and/or owners manuals which may be available online.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely parts that will be needed. Buy them all. Part stores will need the make, model and serial numbers of the machine. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters.

Be sure the electrical power and gas to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service and/or a repair includes any connection of a gas part or during the final steps of a fuel conversion. Soap test every connection you made to remove a part or install a part.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 10-30-07 at 07:32 AM. Reason: Updating. 10-30-2007
  #7  
Old 12-04-05, 05:02 PM
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Post Basic Dryer Fuel (Nat Or Propane) Conversion Information

Dryer conversion from or to either Nat gas gas or to propane gas is cost effective, easy to do and very possible. The task is or can be a do it yourself project if you're careful, use cautions, pay attention to details and are handy with commonly found shop or garage small hand held tools.

To summarize:
1 Turn off the gas to the machine. <A MUST BE DONE SAFETY PRE CAUTION<

2 Disconnect the electrical connection. <A MUST BE DONE SAFETY PRE CAUTION<

3 Open the cabinet. <No set procedures. Varies by Manufacturer>
<Some brands & some models the burner has an access panel on the lower right or left front of the dryer. Other machines require the entire front panel to be removed to access the burner gas valve.>

4 Turn off gas at little lever on gas supply pipe to the right hand side of the burner assembly.

5 Unscrew the union pipe nut after the shut off valve. That nut turns clock wise to unscrew it and counter clock wise to tighten it. Takes two wrenches to do this task. One to hold nut and other to turn the ring nut.

6 Remove the entire gas valve assembly.
<It will be attached to a plate with 3 or more small screws to the bottom of the machine.>

7 Take the entire gas valve assembly with you to the local appliance parts store. Obtain the replacement orifice and have the regulator converted or buy the instruction manual, etc. Ask for help while there. Usually parts counter sales and parts person are very helpful.

A suggestion: <Write down & take with you the brand name, model & serial numbers>

8 Obtain a natural gas orifice or the propane orifice needed and that of the correct Btu rating.

9 Install the orifice onto the gas valve. You will likely have to remove the burner tube to access the brass or bronze metal orifice. Screws out and new one screws in. Simply task.
>Which is in the front end of the burner on the gas valves body after unscrewing & removing the current orifice.<

10 Convert the regulator by unscrewing the tower cap & turning the cap over. The cap is on the tower of the reg. Some have a device or part under the cap. <Most regulators are convertible but not all, depending upon gas valves manufacturer and the year of manufacture>

TIP 1:
If the brand and model has a front burner access panel door, the gas can be turned off at the very tiny gas shut off valve located to right side of the gas valve on the incoming supply pipe.

TIP 2:
The gas line disconnection can also be at the gas valve ahead of the tiny shut off isolation valve. The union is counter threaded. Which means it turns clockwise to loosen and counter clockwise to tighten it. Just the complete opposite of a any other threaded connection.

HINT:
Use a back up wrench to disconnect the supply pipe connection. Hold one part stationary while turning the other. Reverse the procedure to re connect and SOAP test for leaks when done with the tiny valve turned back on.

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.

Suggestions:
1.
Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

2.
Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will quickly provide you with a additional information on how to resolve the problem.

3.
Check all parts for wear and or the need for replacement while the task is in process. Especially if the model requires opening the entire cabinet to access the internal parts.

4.
Replace all worn parts while the need to be inside the cabinet is required. You'll be glad you did.

5.
For additional information, repair instructions etc. read the other questions within this forum pertaining to dryer conversions. The question has already been asked several times.

6.
A service and or repair manual for the specific brand and model of machine is the best informational guide for the do it your-self-er. Buy one. Be glad you did.

Those prior conversion questions and any or all the replies offered within them contain all the required & additional information most likely to be needed.

If you need further assistance, use the reply button to add any additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically keep your question at the top of the forum list.

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DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection, servicing and or repairs.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 08-24-06 at 10:06 AM.
  #8  
Old 12-26-05, 08:23 PM
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Arrow Basic Gas Dryer Installation Information

Below is a composite of basic gas dryer installation processes, steps, method and tips. Applies to almost all natural gas appliance installations.

If there isn't already a gas shut off valve installed on the natural gas supply pipe at the location where the dryer is to be installed, you will need to purchase a shut off valve. Usually one is present where a previous dryer was already installed but not always. Circumstances vary.

If there is an older style shut of valve already installed on the supply pipe, most likely you will need to replace it with a new one. The new one will match with the new connector. New connectors and old style shut off valves do not match.

If there isn't a shut off valve on the supply pipe or there is pipe cap installed, etc. turn off the main gas and install a valve. The flex connector size for all natural gas dryers is 3/8th inch corrugated metal flex tubing. The flex connector must match the shut off valve. Which is usually but not always, 3/4" pipe thread size on the female end. May be 3/4 inch in some cases. Buy the correct size to fit the existing needs.

All the required parts are available at the local hardware stores. This forum contains several questions on this subject of appliance connecting. Reading them will provide you with most, if not all, the additional information required.

Reminder. Gas has to be "OFF" to the supply line, if there isn't presently a gas shut off valve installed. Or when ever the existing shut off valve has to be replaced.

In most cases, the existing shut off valve may not be the newer designed type. Which means the existing shut off (core valve) will have to be removed and a new design (ball valve) type installed.

The older shut off valves will not allow the newer type of flex connectors to screw onto them. Male thread ends different and the outside diameter is different sizes. So the existing shut off valve will than need to be removed first and the new style installed.

Which is when the main supply gas has to be turned off first. Once main gas supply is turned off, any existing gas in the line will not be of any major concern. Providing the main shut off valve at the meter totally shut off the gas. Some of the older types are known to allow a small amount to pass through....

Remove old style valve on supply pipe and install new type shut off valve. Use pipe thread compound on the threads or any type of oil. Avoid pipe tape unless you know how to use it properly. If you use pipe tape, once around the male threads on the supply pipe is usually enough. To much pipe tape creates problems.

The basic rule of thumb is to ONLY apply pipe tape to pipe joints and pipe threads. Applying pipe thread compound {Dope} may also be used.

However, DO NOT apply pipe tape to the connector threads. Connector threads are those inside the female cap ends of the flex connector and or those on the adapters or shut off valves male ends. Doing so usually creates more problems of gas leaks that it was intended to solve. Especially when too much is used and or the tape is rapped on the pipe threads in the wrong direction.

Flex connector threads either should be installed dry or apply a light oil to the threads. Almost any type of oil is will due fine. Wiggle the connector, as you hand thread it's female cap nut end onto the adapter or shut-off valve. Doing so helps to ensure the threads are not cross threaded.

Once that is completed, finger thread female nut of the flex connect onto the male end of the shut off valve. Finger threading is done to help prevent cross threading the threads.

Once cap nut firmly threaded onto male end of shut off valve, tighten cap nut with wrench to firmly secure it. Do not over tighten. Thread stripping or damage can occur.

New appliances will have an inlet gas pipe. Thread adapter that comes with flex connector onto pipe. Lube with pipe threads with thread compound, oil or one rap of pipe thread. Use same procedure as above and tighten firmly but do not over tighten. Just firmly snug it up.

Once all the above is completed, turn gas on where ever you had to turn it off at. Turn on shut off valve to machine. Soap test for leaks. Use leak detection soap, if possible and available. Look for tiny bubbles at all connections made. No bubbles no leaks. Allow sufficient time for any bubbles to form. Be sure to soap well and all parts connected, and around all sides!

ADDITIONAL INFORMATION:
Connector threads must fit together correctly. The connector nut on both ends of the connector should be hand threaded first, before using any wrenches. Use only oil to seal the threads.

Do not use pipe tape or any other compounds on the threads of the connectors end cap nuts, etc. If any lubrication is required or seems to be required, be sure the threads are matched together, not cross threaded and the parts belong together. Matched sets.

Leaks at most connections can be easily corrected. If not, the threads could be damaged or the parts are not compatible. Any doubts as to the condition of the parts used to connect the appliance, old or existing parts should be replaced with new parts.

Best leak detection method is to use "Leak Detection Soap." Mix per instructions. Not having that, a heavy soapy water solution made from commonly used dish soap will do fine. A slightly thick mixture to insure the soapy water remains on the parts and will still allow bubbles to form. A small cupful will do fine for this installation purpose.

Do not turn off the gas. Apply the soapy water solution using a sponge or common paint brush. Cover every connection location part and point. Especially connection locations you made and some locations which may have been unintentionally disrupted, etc. Then wait and watch.

Wherever a leak happens to be, regardless of how tiny, bubbles will form. Note every connection location. Allow several minutes, if needed, for leaks to appear or additional bubbles to appear.

Tiny leaks create tiny bubbles which may take time to develop. A second application may be required to locate some very tiny leaks.

Turn off the gas, at the gas valve on the supply pipe and make the needed repairs. Then turn the gas back on and retest the results. Repeat this process until all leaks are located and corrected.

Cautionary Reminder:
***If and or when you attempt any repairs, "Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever the appliance is moved and/or a repair includes any connection of a gas part."

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 08-24-06 at 10:13 AM.
  #9  
Old 12-14-07, 06:49 AM
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Question Excessively Long Drying Time

I have a Whirlpool Gas Dryer thats ~3yrs old. It recently started to take a very long time to dry clothes. Loads that usually take 30 minutes now take 3 times as long. When dryer is set to use the Humidity Sensor, the Dial never advances, but eventually the clothes do dry. When set for timed drying, the dial moves properly and the clothes do eventually dry. When I open up the dryer mid-cycle, the dryer is not as hot as I remember it being when it was working properly.

I suspect the problem started when our new cleaning lady did several loads(about 6 loads) of laundry for us in one day. When we went to do another load after that we noticed the lint tray was packed with lint - I'm not sure if the cleaning lady knew to remove and clean when load was complete.

When we started the next load I checked the vent hood from outside - there was little air coming out. When I disconnected everything there was a whole lot of build up in the vent - I took a shop vac and blew out all the clogs in the flex duct. At this point I decided to replace the entire flex duct with hard duct. After installing hard 4" ducts for the vent, there was plenty of warm air coming out the outside vent cover, but this did not change the dryer's performance.

I then disconnected the back panel of the dryer to see if there was any clogs inside the dryer. I did find a whole lot of lint build up in the dryer and removed as much as I could. Again, this did not change the dryer's performance. I'm not sure I removed all clogs inside the dryer - just got as much as my hand could reach.

I've also checked the gas connection and everything seems fine - the flame ignites shortly after dryer is turned on.

What is wrong with the dryer? Anything else I could try before calling someone?
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 02-12-10 at 05:51 AM. Reason: Retitled.
  #10  
Old 12-14-07, 07:23 AM
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Hello jaspers95 and Welcome into the Gas Appliances topic.

Despite what may seem to be a lot of warm air discharge at the exhaust vent may not be. The dryers internal fan blower may be restricted with a lot of lint. You'll need to access the blowers fan cage and clean it out also.

The idea here is to eliminate as may other possibilities before suspecting any part failures. Such as the timer control, moisture/humidity sensors, etc. What you have already done is good...

Read Gas Dryer Sticky Note For Additional Advice:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.

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  #11  
Old 12-18-07, 06:42 AM
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How do I access the blowers fan cage to clean it out? I have a Whirlpool LGR8648LW0.
 
  #12  
Old 12-18-07, 07:30 AM
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Hello: jaspers95

Not familiar with how to access blower specifically with that model. Each model differs to some degree. Basic access methods below.

Look for two screws at the base of the front panel. If there are screws there, remove them and lift panels lower end up wards and out wards.

Some models have screws in the door frame. While some have both of the above. Others have none. These types use two clips between the front panel and the top panel.

If there are no visible screws, the clips will be in from the ends about two to four inches from each corner end. Use a thin blade or old credit card card.

Slid in either the card or thin blade to un clip each clip, then lift machine top. Then look along inside front ends of the panel for two more screws which must be removed.
 
  #13  
Old 12-18-07, 05:37 PM
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Hi J:

Parts breakdown here:

http://www.appliancepartspros.com/pa...odel_id=502970

You'll also want to ensure that the exhaust hose and ducting are cleaned out.
 
  #14  
Old 12-19-07, 06:45 AM
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I was able to remove the lint assembly to expose the exhaust blower fan. It was pretty clean. So I'm sure now that exhaust ducting is clean and probably not the cause of the problem.

I noticed that during the last load we did the inside of the dryer was not warm at all, but the clothes did eventually dry - again it took about 3 times longer than it usually did.

What's next to try? Or is it time to bring in a technician?
 
  #15  
Old 12-19-07, 07:57 AM
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Hello: jaspers95

After all that has already been done... and the condition is still the same, next attempt imo is to replace the two solenoid coils. They are located on top of the gas control valve.

Disconnect the electrical to the machine. Turn off the gas supply to the control valve using the tiny shut off lever on the gas supply pipe. Tiny lever should be located on the right hand side of the gas valve.

Then remove the two wire disconnects attached to the solenoids. Remove the solenoids hold down bracket and lift off the two solenoids. Replace them both with exact OEM replacements.

Reverse the procedures above and re-test the dryer. If the solenoids where defective, the new ones will resolve the problem. Solenoids are not expensive nor to difficult to replace.

The sticky note has more details pertaining to solenoid replacement, if you need more details and care to read it.
 
  #16  
Old 12-28-07, 06:16 PM
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Well I took your advice and replaced the two solenoid coils. That was it and now it's working great again. Wonder how much I saved by fixing this myself? Is there anything that would cause the solenoids to fail? So I could avoid that again in the future? Or is it common for them to fail?

Thanks for all the help!!!
 
  #17  
Old 12-29-07, 07:59 AM
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Hello: jaspers95

Glad you also where able to fix your own dryer. The problem is very common. Solenoids deteriorate with time and wear. The burner then cycles on for short times spans. Increasing dry times. Until one solenoid fails totally and the burner never lights at all...

There is preventive measures to be taken for solenoid failure. Just happens with time and usage. A very common condition but one that is usually easy and inexpensive to fix as a do it yourself repair...
 
  #18  
Old 11-22-08, 01:55 PM
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Dryer Noises

Have noticed that when the dryer is running, it is very noisy.
The dryer is a GE Profile model # DPSB613GD0WW and is 4 yrs old. It is not a metallic or scraping sound but a humming, growling type of sound.

I've cleaned out the excess lint in front & rear ducts. I've opened it up to inspect/clean the inside of the unit. I didn't find much lint build-up inside. I did notice lint accumulating on & in the dryer motor so I removed it & blew it away.

I inspected the drive belt, dryer drum slides, idler pulley, rear drum bearing, & front drum bearing. The drive belt shows no damage or excessive wear. The dryer drum slides show normal wear, grooves are present but not excessively deep.

The idler pulley appears in good condition. The rear drum bearing appears in good condition. Front drum bearing is not damaged. The dryer drum itself is in excellent shape & not misshapen.

I re-installed the motor and put everything back together and still this noise is present.

Any help on this would be greatly appreciated.
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-13-08 at 08:58 AM. Reason: Selected Post To Include Into This Informational Sticky Note
  #19  
Old 12-12-08, 06:22 AM
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New noise

The dryer started making a metallic, scraping sound when drum is in motion. When dryer cycle starts, this noise is not present but soon afterwards it sounds as if the drum begins to scrape against something. Could it be the rear drum bearing has failed?
 
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Old 12-12-08, 07:46 AM
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Arrow Additional Possible Dryer Noise Causes



Hello jrseven and Welcome into the Gas Appliances topic.

Could it be the rear drum bearing has failed?
The answer to your question above is yes. That's if the drum is a real drum. Meaning it has a bottom or back to it and not a simple tube roller drum type.

Which can be determined if there is or are screws holding it in place at the back center if the drum. If there are three or four or so screws in that location, it's a true drum and not a rolling tube.

The back of the machine will also have or may have ventilation louvers or signs of a securing method for the bracket that holds the drum in place.

Dryer drum noises can then be coming from a wearing out or worn out rear bearing. Noise will increase like you mentioned as it heats up due to internal friction.

If the dryer does have a rear drum bearing and the noise is specifically coming from it, (which can be clearly heard while machine is in operation and away from the wall behind it with you behind it and near it) the bearing will need to be replaced.

Drum rollers and drum sliders or drum pads as they may be called, are located in the front of the drum or tube. These can also cause noises when worn out.

My suggestion would be to replace all of these parts if any repair is made, bearing or no bearing. Idea here is to open and fix it once and totally the first time to avoid doing it all over again in the near future if anything is done now, IMO.

The dryer help sticky may provide additional advice. Suggest reading it and the post within that applies. here

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will more quickly provide you with answers to questions & provide additional information on how to resolve dryer problems.

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.

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PS:
Too much info in one post reply???.... Kindly excuse me. Like to provide all the possible causes and possible solutions in one post................
 
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Old 12-12-08, 09:59 AM
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Two Types Of Dryer Drums

Thanks for the reply, Sharp Advice.

Yes, it's a "real" drum and not a rolling tube. The front drum slides are OK & don't show excessive wear but the rear drum bearing is showing a red colored, powdery residue.

I've got the rear bearing kit on order. I should get it today. Better having too much info than not enough info...
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 12-13-08 at 09:05 AM. Reason: Selected Post Containing Beneficial Different Dryer Drum Types Information
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Old 12-13-08, 09:10 AM
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Hello: jrseven

The red colored powdery residue is evidence the bearing is worn out. Soon to fail totally.

Good Luck with the removal and installation of the dryers new rear drum bearing. Once completed the dryer noise will be gone...
 
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Old 01-18-10, 07:59 AM
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Dryer Solenoid and Coil Terminology

For Purposes of Clarification for all members reading this thread and reply: (Terms or names for parts often get confusing and or mis-stated....... )

A COIL is a winding of wires around a spool. That's all a coil is. A SOLENOID is a mechanical device that performs an operation of some type. In this case with the dryer, when the COIL is energized with electrical current, it magnetizes and lifts the valve stem it is placed on.

When the coil is energized, it lifts the disk at the base of the solenoids stem. When the disk is raised it opens a normally closed valve. (Fail safe to always be closed.) When opened gas can flow. Remove the current from the coil of electrical windings and the disk drops down closing which then stops the gas flow........

Exactly like and/or similar to a water faucet. Open the faucet and the water flows. Closed it stops. Exception is when a solenoid is used it makes the manual and mechanical operation automatic........

BTW:
Solenoids open water valves in a washing machine too. Controlling water flow. When water level is obtained, an electrical switch cuts current to the solenoid and water stops flowing.

FYI:
Appliance parts sales persons and often times service techs interchange the terminology (name) of parts like those found in a dryers solenoid(s) assembly. There are two solenoids.

The solenoids (there are 2 and both are located on top of the gas valve) is the complete assembly. A coil is one part in the assembly. Because the coils are sold as a separate part of the solenoid assembly, they are more often then not called a coil.

Because sales persons sell parts, they refer to the solenoids coils as coils and not solenoids. Furthermore, the coils are the only replaceable parts of the assembly. The entire solenoids, less the coils, is not replaceable. If any part other then one of the coils fails, the entire gas control valve must be replaced.

Coils are sold in matching pairs of two and must be replaced as a pair. Most coils for dryers are the same but not always. Be sure to obtain the correct coils for the brand and model of your dryer.

One coil has a terminal for three wires and the other has two wires. Each wire set has a quick disconnect on it's end. This method is used to ensure it is connected or reconnected to the correct solenoids coil. Each coil is slightly different which ensures it is not installed on the wrong solenoids stem....

Hope the above clarifies what a solenoid is (the assembly and what a coil is (the part is). And how they can be used together in combination to automate a mechanical operation.
 
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Old 01-18-10, 08:47 AM
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Arrow Kerosene odors and or diesel fume odors.

The kerosene or diesel fume odor is usually nothing to worry about. Especially if you are presently and/or have been recently using an type of petroleum based and/or oil based product.

It's a common after effect of using such products and usually the result of some petroleum product recently used in the home. Could be an oil based paint, a stain, wood finishing or sealer product, adhesive, sealant and or any such product, etc.

Any product that contains a flammable solvent or oil based product will do this. I bet you had one of those products used in the home recently. Prior to this, the odor didn't exist and it will be gone as soon as the product dries and or cures.

Until such a time as any of these type products dries and or cures, the best thing to do is ventilate the house as best as possible.

If clothes retain the smell after drying, at the end of the drying cycle, use the "No Heat" or "Fluff" cycle for about 10 minutes to ventilate the fumes before removing the clothes.

There are usually a few easy ways to determine if the problem is caused by an appliance.

There is always the rare possibility that an appliance is not burning the fuel properly. Especially when the odor seems to appear only when that one appliance is in operation is one clue the appliance may have a burner problem.

Another clue is if any petroleum based and or oil based product has been recently used anywhere indoors or in any nearby room or area.

If the odor problem did not appear prior to any petroleum based and/or oil based product was used, best bet it is caused by usage of a petroleum based product.

If you have any doubts or none of the above conditions applies, contact your local gas utility and ask them for an appliance service check to determine the cause.

The phone number to the gas company and or propane supplier will be on your bill.
 
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Old 01-18-10, 09:00 AM
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Arrow Intermittent heating, no heat or long dry times

There are and/or could be several causes for the conditions noted in the title. As a result this post is lengthy but does contain all or almost all of the possible causes. Read it carefully and determine what you need to due based on the information below. Good Luck....

First check the dryers venting system. If the vent is restricted and or plugged up anywhere, the dryer will over heat and the burner will shut down.

Totally remove the exhaust vent system from the back of the machine. One that's done, test dry another load and note the difference, if any. If the clothes dry properly, the venting system some where is clogged and/or restricted. Also check the exhaust hoods inner flapper door. Flapper door must be free to open and close.

Many Additional Possible Causes: (Some May Or May Not Apply)

If the dryer is heating but the dryers burner shuts down too soon, chances are the venting system is restricted. Very common problem when the condition you're describing happens. The test mentioned above is to determine if the venting is the cause for the condition in the posts title.

If the same problem does not reoccur, the venting system is restricted. Cleaning and clearing the venting system is required. Do not forget to check the vent hoods flapper door. Flapper must be freely able to move.

If the same problem and/or condition in the title happens, the problem is elsewhere within the dryer. Best bet before attempting to replace parts, is to do the testing suggested above. It is the most common problem and least costly to resolve the problem.

If that does not resolve the problem, it's also possible one or both of the solenoid coils could be defective and or the gas valve could be defective. There are two coils. Both are on top of the gas valve. All terminals on both coils must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

Remove both solenoid coils off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs. Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Remove the burner compartment access panel, turn the dryer on and note if the glow igniter glows. If it does, it will begin glowing after you hear that first click, which is one of the two solenoids opening.

The glow igniter must glow. It must be HOT and glow an INTENSE bright yellow orange color. If not, it's considered to be burned out. If it fails to glow at all, it's also possible it's completely burned out.

Shortly after the glow igniter reaches full glow, the second solenoid should click open. You'll hear the second click. If no second click is heard, the glow igniter will turn off and stop glowing. If this happens, both the solenoids {2} must be replaced.

The solenoid coils are mounted directly on top of the gas valve. Each has a wire harness assembly with a plastic quick disconnect attached. The coils must be removed and replaced.

There are two solenoids...both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.

All terminals on both solenoids must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

To accomplish this task, the entire burner and gas valve must be removed. Then the solenoid coils can be removed from the top of the gas valve and replaced.

The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite the norm to loosen it.

There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.

Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs.

Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Once at the store, the salesperson can be sure the replacement parts are the correct ones. Replacing the solenoids is simple and the parts come with full instructions enclosed in the packages.

Should you or any other topic readers be concerned with doing volt and ohm tests, etc. I do not recommend them. The parts wear out, are not costly, are relatively easy to replace and the practice doing it yourself is rewarding....

Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire gas control valve unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing.

CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item. Replacement is the only option, if found to be defective.

Flame Sensor could be the problem. This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow igniter to not function or cause the problem your describing. Premature shut down. You can test the sensor with a continuity tester or an ohm meter. Should be full continuity.

Below is almost all the likely causes for the problem causes, possible solutions & help links.

Defective Solenoid Coils:
There are two coils and both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids supply voltage to the Hot Surface (Glow) Igniter and are part of the electrical loop.

You'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.

Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons.

Timers also have cams that open and close those contact points. If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem you're having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.

If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely solely on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

Thermal Fuse/Fuse-able Link:
Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.
 
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