gas dryer getting no heat


  #1  
Old 07-20-04, 07:42 PM
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gas dryer getting no heat

i have tried to review some threads here.

i have kitchenaid KGYE67OBWH2 - 9 years old. this thing has been great but today the heat did not fire up. problem is not blocked vent, etc...

does anyone know if the unit has an internal fuse?

i do not have a manual with a detailed internal diagram (not sure why - must have lost it).

can someone provide a link where i can research this model?

please feel free to comment............
 
  #2  
Old 07-21-04, 06:19 AM
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Hello and Welcome Habs11

First item to check, imo, is the hot surface (HSI) glow bar or coil. If it does not glow or glows a weak orange color, replacing it usually resolves the problem.

There could be other causes for the condition but the HSI is one of the first items to check and best palces to begin a diagnostic check. Be sure all the control panel settings are correctly set first.

This sticky note contains plenty of other possible causes and solutions:
Gas Dryer Help & Information Link:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159481

Check the manufacturers web site for additional info which they may provide.
http://www.kitchenaid.com

Below are sponsor help web sites to help also.

Advertisers & Sponsors Web Sites:
Appliance Parts, Pictures & Help: http://www.PartSelect.com

Appliances Parts & Help: http://www.pcappliancerepair.com

Kitchen Appliance Parts: http://www.parts-depot.online.com
 
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Old 07-21-04, 06:35 AM
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thanks sharp - www.partselect.com has diagrams but i can not get them to print well. basically i want to try to fix myself and need to be pointed to the potential problem. given the age (9yrs) i am assuming not worth paying for it to be fixed.

i'll post back if i solve my problem.
 
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Old 07-21-04, 06:53 AM
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Thumbs up Worth Fixing

Hi: Habs

To determine the cause, check that HSI. Chances are it is not glowing. If not, replace it as the first means to fix the dryer. While you are at it and if you determine there is a need, likely at 9 yrs, the glider/slider pads also need replacing.

That dryer may also have a rear bearing and or may have rollers either back and or in front in place of glider/slider pads. May also need a new belt.

The extent to which you determine you are willing to go to fix the machine, able to fix it and costs involved for parts is cost effective. So long as you can DIY the machine. Great DIY project also...

Good Luck
 
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Old 07-21-04, 06:57 AM
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thanks again - i was able to save the diagrams from the one site and will print later today - i'll try somehting tonight.

wife already excited about anew dryer so i'm digging into this to see what i can do..... worse case i screw it up, donate to someone and get a new dryer.... best case is i fix myself within a couple days for not too much money.

i like to try myself as i have never done electronic repair on an appliance.....

note to self: UNPLUG!!!!!!
 
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Old 07-21-04, 10:57 AM
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Habs

If wiring diagrams will help, there should be one inside the back top panel. Unless the dryer was not new when you purchased it. In that case likely removed by prior owner or repair person or...????

Personally, I do not often advise a member to read them. Often times too confusing to understand etc. Helps some, whom have experience with such but not in all cases.

Agree. Attempt the repairs yourself. Great learning project. Just be sure to test for gas leaks on any fitting in the gas supply to the appliance and inside the appliance should you need to disconnect any gas line(s) or fittings.

And YES!... Unplug machine first....

First time shocking experience creates a major deterrent factor for all future diy projects involving any projects where electric is used, etc.
 
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Old 07-21-04, 01:59 PM
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sharp advice again

sharp, hopefully you can give me a little more detail

i looked at the internal fuse but have no idea what to look for - i am thinking if it was blown it would look irregular somehow - basically it look like solid black plastic.

looked at the coils (coil valve) part numbers PS383994 and PS334310 on my kitchenaid. are these what you mean by HSI? if so, i let her run 5 minutes and one stayed cool while the other got slightly warm. here is a link to these coil parts (part numbers 13, 14)

http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...e=Dryer&Mark=0

so, am i looking at the right thing? if not what exactly should be orange color?

side note: lets assume the gnightor is bad, what if i run for 5 minutes with the front and back panels off and then after 5 minutes it ignights - any chance of an explosion?

thanks do much for your help - i called some local places and they all do not offer advice on the phone and charge $50 just to stop over.
 
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Old 07-21-04, 04:06 PM
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Hi: Habs

The Hot Surface Ignitor is part number 4 in that picture.
ps 334180
http://www.partselect.com/ModelFrame...e=Dryer&Mark=0

Numbers 13 & 14 are the solenoid coils.
PS383994 Coil, 60 Hz. (2 Terminal) (Main) (COIL-VALVE)
PS334310 Coil, 60 Hz. (Split) (3 Terminal) (Pilot Position) (COIL-VALVE)

Thermal Fuse:
http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/In...PartDetail.htm

Thermostat Pic Not Available:
http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/In...PartDetail.htm

Removing back panel will not cause harm or problems nor explosions. If there is a front access panel open it.

Note on the gas valve, see pic, http://www.partselect.com/xq/aspx/In...PartDetail.htm there is a brass elbow existing out of the gas valve. On that elbow is a tiny lever to shut off the gas. Turn it off.

Than unscrew that nut at the base of the gas valve. It's a coupling nut. It turns clock wise to unscrew it. Not clockwise like other nuts. Clockwise. You'll have to hold the inside nut (closest to the valve) while turning clockwise that nut.

The nut remains on the valve and only the pipe end comes out. Entire gas valve must be removed to get to the hot surface glow bar. (HSI) HSI part number is 334180 in the first picture.

Of course the wires to the solenoids also have to be removed first. No real problem there. They are terminal ends which simply pull out of the solenoids. And cannot be installed onto the wrong coils since they each hace differnet terminal ends. Makes that aspect of the repair easy...

That black item you referred to is the thermostat. Web Site there does not have a oic of it. Not to worry. Not the cause of the problem anyway.

Hope this helps and thanks for finding the pics on the web site. Glad to help those whom also are willing to help themselves... Makes all our efforts easier too. Good Luck.
 
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Old 07-21-04, 04:57 PM
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ok we have it - the HSI as you indicated does not glow at all. since it does not glow at all you think this is the part i need (only part nuber 4 - 334180)? that is the only part to get it working... excluding your suggestions for new rollers, belts, etc.
 
  #10  
Old 07-21-04, 09:00 PM
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Hi: Habs

Yes. Part # 4 (HSI)

If the ignitor bar (HSI) does not glow and all the control selections are set correctly, (not in air fluff or no heat cycles) and the ignitor fails to glow, replace it, as a first attempt to correct the problem.

If you are handy with volt meters, you can test the wire terminal end for electrical current. The end that the glow ignitor plugs into. Connect the volt meter and turn the dryer on.

When the dryer starts, shortly there after the meter should record current. Amount about 120 volts but not of any real concern for the amount. Just so current is there and recording.

Doing that proves the ignitor is defective. Replace the ignitor. Just be very careful installing the new ignitor. They are fragile parts and break easily.

Also a non returnable item or refundable part. Once purchased, they are yours, whether they work or not or fix the problem or not. But cost effective to replace, since they ware out anyway.

Once the ignitor is installed and the gas valve reinstalled, test the machine. Very likely the dryer will work as it use to.

The other parts (Belts/glider pads etc) can be replaced later after the dryer is working but before the total job is considered completed, if more parts are in need of being replaced.
 
  #11  
Old 07-22-04, 08:05 PM
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another try

sharp - it is late and the boards crashed so i am typing for a second time

i took entire burner assembly to a parts store and they said it was good - i bought a thermal fuse in case this was the problem.

turns out my fuse is good as well

i purchased a multimeter and checked all the burner assembly terminals as well as the fuse - i ckeched ohms to see if there was a circut - i did not measure actual voltage.

for kicks i put the multimeter on the Radiant Sensor (part number 344761 of the bulkhead section) - there was not a complete circut... could this be the problem???????

if not the sensor - any other suggestions?
 
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Old 07-23-04, 07:26 PM
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Fixed

Sharp, thank you for your help. The problem was a bad radiant sensor, a $25 dollar part.
 
 

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