Kenmore Gas Dryer - no heat at all


  #1  
Old 03-09-05, 02:42 PM
rav
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Kenmore Gas Dryer - no heat at all

Hi, I have a 7yr old Kenmore Gas Dryer (Model#110.76904692).

It no longer heats up (drum turns but only have cold air coming out the back) - this just happened after it had been moved several feet for laundry room painting. It did actually work a couple of times after the move. But now: no heat, no clicking, glow coil doesn't glow...

I have read all the threads related to gas dryers. They seem to be pointing me to replacing the two coils/solenoids on the gas valve since there is no clicking. Is there anyway I can test these coils with a multi-meter to see if they are bad before purchasing new ones???

Also, I was wondering if you can describe the general sequence of events that happen once you push the start button relating to thermostat, solenoids, glow coil/ignitor, radiant/flame sensor and gas valve.

The reason I ask is: Is it possible you get no clicks if the thermostat is bad or thinks the temperature is already too hot to enable the glow coil & gas valve thereby generating no flame???

If the thermostat is possibly bad, how do I test it???
How do I test the glow coil???

Thanks in advance for you help!!!
 
  #2  
Old 03-09-05, 07:40 PM
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Welcome rav to the Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Most likely the hot surface glow ignitor is defective. Replacing it first is likely to resolve the problem. May also be one of the solenoids. Might as well replace them also, since the entire burner assembly must be removed to access the ignitor. Solenoids are not all the expensive and the fact that no clicking is heard, like the first solenoid is defective. Least expensive parts to replace of all of them which may be a cause. Hot surface ignitor, if not replaced prior is likely to be in need of replacement anyway.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will quickly provide you with answers to questions & provide additional information on how to resolve the problem.

Dryer help info: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Sears Appliance Parts & Repair:
Sears Home Page:
http://www.sears.com

Sears Search By Model Number Page:
http://www3.sears.com

Whirlpool's Home Web Site: (Also makes appliances for Sears)
http://www.whirlpool.com

Use the reply button to add additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move or keep your question to the top of the forums list of questions.

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DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection, servicing and or repairs.
 
  #3  
Old 03-10-05, 12:04 PM
rav
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Kenmore Gas Dryer - no heat at all

I've ohmed out (measured resistance) with a multi-meter all the parts below after disconnecting all the wiring to each of them.

From this, I suspect the thermal fuse that is attached to the blower housing next to the internal bias thermostat is bad. It read out as a open circuit (very large resistance). What should it read??? Is this the bad part I should replace???

From the measured resistance numbers below, any other suggestions on which part is bad or which order I should replace parts til the dryer starts working???


Measured Resistance Values:
---------------------------------------------------------
1) Ignitor: 60 ohms
2) Flame/Radiant Sensor: 0.26 ohms
3) High Limit Thermostat: 0.26 ohms
4) Internal Bias Thermostat:
Red to Red terminal=0.16 ohms
Violet to Violet terminal=7010 ohms
5) Thermal Fuse: open (very large/infinite resistance)
6) Two Terminal Solenoid/Coil: 1225 ohms
7) Three Terminal Solenoid/Coil:
White to Black terminal= 560 ohms
White to Blue terminal=1940 ohms
Blue to Black terminal=1380 ohms

Thanks!!!
 
  #4  
Old 03-10-05, 12:52 PM
rav
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Kenmore Gas Dryer - no heat at all

Hi - one more thing.

To test if the thermal fuse is causing my no heat problem, can I bypass (short across) it and run my dryer temporarily that way just to see if the dryer heats up??? What purpose does the thermal fuse serve???

Thanks!!!
 
  #5  
Old 03-10-05, 12:56 PM
J
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Reply to thermal fuse ?

A very good source for info can be found at www.applianceaid.com From what I have checked out on my Whirlpool just like the Kenmore you are just looking for continuity at the terminal posts going to the fuse. Do you have 110V going to the ignitor or to the gas valves. My problem was I had no voltage going to the ignitor which was caused by a bad flame sensor.
 
  #6  
Old 03-10-05, 12:59 PM
J
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Yes the test is too just connect terminal wire as a jump
 
  #7  
Old 03-10-05, 01:03 PM
J
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While your in there if you wouldn't mind. If you read my earlier request on my problem. Could you tell me what color wires blue/white are going to the terminals on your flame sensor
 
  #8  
Old 03-10-05, 02:13 PM
rav
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Kenmore Gas Dryer - no heat at all

Wow - I bypassed the thermal fuse and now the dryer works!!! I plan on buying a new thermal fuse before using the dryer.

Looks like my movement of the dryer caused the thermal fuse to burn out - during the move, the exhaust pipe got about a 90degree bend in it which restricted exhaust flow thereby overheating the fuse. That explains why the dryer worked a couple times after the move but stopped once the fused burned out.

Thanks everyone!!!
 
  #9  
Old 03-10-05, 03:03 PM
J
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RAV the fuse is about a $12.50 item. I checked it out today at a local Appliance Shop just in case I needed it. You could run your's as jumped until you get a new one. Since you discovered and corrected the cause of the other one failing.
 
  #10  
Old 03-10-05, 11:46 PM
rav
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Unhappy Kenmore Gas Dryer - no heat at all

I bought a thermal fuse from Sears today ($12+tax).
Now, my dryer works/ignites after installing it.

However, looks like I have a gas leak problem.

After cleaning the exhaust piping and before moving back the dryer to its original spot, I thought it would be wise to make sure none of the gas flex hose connections in the back leak since I have been moving around the dryer so much.

Even though I did not undo/open any of the gas line connections, I found a small gas leak at the flex hose connection (silver male/female connectors) directly at the rear of the dryer using a soap/water solution.

Help - How should I fix this leak??? Please provide detailed steps.

Can I just buy something to apply/bond to existing connection to stop leak or will I have to undo/open existing connection???

Thanks!!!
 
  #11  
Old 03-11-05, 08:05 PM
J
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The smart and safest thing is to buy a new line. Why! its old , you've been moving it around (stress and flex), biggest is PEACE OF MIND. I had a friend who's house blew up from a flex gas line leak (they weren't home) Destroyed there home and four others. Pick up some yellow teflon gas tape its real easy to use and does a great thread seal job.
 
  #12  
Old 03-12-05, 06:00 PM
howhardcanitbe
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I just had the Sears repairman come to my home for a similar problem. The thermostat fail on my gas dryer. The part was $20 to replace, but the labor costs were ridiculous - I suppose there's a premium to be paid for the impatient and lazy types like myself. Anyway I saw that he determined that the thermostat was dead by measuring the voltage or resistance across the terminals. I don't know what it should be but there should be a cheat sheet (electrical diagram) stored behind the control panel that will help you figure it out. To get to it you'll need to simply remove the panel on the side and unscrew any screws. Good luck.

Signed,
Howhardcanitbe?

Originally Posted by rav
Hi, I have a 7yr old Kenmore Gas Dryer (Model#110.76904692).

It no longer heats up (drum turns but only have cold air coming out the back) - this just happened after it had been moved several feet for laundry room painting. It did actually work a couple of times after the move. But now: no heat, no clicking, glow coil doesn't glow...

I have read all the threads related to gas dryers. They seem to be pointing me to replacing the two coils/solenoids on the gas valve since there is no clicking. Is there anyway I can test these coils with a multi-meter to see if they are bad before purchasing new ones???

Also, I was wondering if you can describe the general sequence of events that happen once you push the start button relating to thermostat, solenoids, glow coil/ignitor, radiant/flame sensor and gas valve.

The reason I ask is: Is it possible you get no clicks if the thermostat is bad or thinks the temperature is already too hot to enable the glow coil & gas valve thereby generating no flame???

If the thermostat is possibly bad, how do I test it???
How do I test the glow coil???

Thanks in advance for you help!!!
 
 

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