Kenmore Gas Dryer: No heat and no power


  #1  
Old 05-03-05, 07:11 AM
mhughe8
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Kenmore Gas Dryer: No heat and no power

I have a Kenmore 70 series gas dryer which turns just fine but doesn't put out any heat. I have tested the different parts for congruity and found that there is power in the motor, but none in the heating elements (including the thermal fuse). This leads me to believe that the problem is in my controls. Do you have any thoughts on how I can determine where the break might be?

Thanks,
Mike
 
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Old 05-03-05, 11:55 AM
scoash
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A gas dryer doesn't have heating elements but I would start with bypassing the thermal fuse in back by hooking the two wires together and see if the burner comes on. If still not, unplug igniter wire and check for 120volts to it when running.
 
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Old 05-05-05, 08:26 PM
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Hello Mike. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Dryer help info:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

The ignitor coil must glow. It must be HOT and glow an INTENSE bright yellow orange color. If not, it's considered to be burned out. If it fails to glow at all, it's also possible it's completely burned out.

Other items you may need to do or want to check/do {whichever applies} while your in the process of repairing the dryer.

Restricted Exhaust Vent:
The vent tube is located behind or to the side of the dryer. It needs to be removed totally from both sides to completely clear out the lint.

Check the entire venting system. This also includes the exhaust vent hood outside. It has a flapper that may not be opening fully or not at all. Locate any restriction within the entire exhaust system and clean out all lint. Replace exhaust vent tubing as needed. Plastic vent tubing is fine.

Defective Solenoids:
There are two...both are on top of the gas valve.
Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop. All terminals on both solenoids must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the holddown cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs. Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Defective Gas Valve:
Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.

CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!

Defective Glow Ignitor:
It's a rare possibility but worth noting here. The glow ignitor may glow but just be too weak to allow current to continue to flow to the coils. The solenoid coils are also part of the electrical loop and may effect proper glow ignitor operation or functioning.

Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons.

Timers also have cams <lobes> that open and close those contact points. If the timer hangs-up on a lobe, it may or may not advance to the next cycle.

If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem you're having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.

If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely soley on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

A Fuseable Link:
Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

Flame Sensor:
This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem your discribing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.

However, do not rely on the continuity test to prove the part is functioning correctly. The only proof positive method to be sure the part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part and have the local appliance parts store person do the testing.

Door Safety Switch:
The door safety switch {that extended button in the door frame} is the part that pops out when the door is opened. This button controls the entire operation of the dryer when it's running. If it fails to pop out or the switch fails to disconnect internally, the dryer will not shut off when the door opens. Neither will anything on the appliance work if this button does not make internal contact when the door is closed.

Safety Reminder:
ALWAYS be positive you have unplugged the electrical power and turned off the gas supply to the appliance prior to attempting any repairs!

FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.

TIP:
Best method is to determine if any part is funtioning correctly is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential culprit, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests.
 
 

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