Magic Chef- No oven or Broiler working

Reply

  #1  
Old 10-09-05, 10:31 AM
BSexton1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Magic Chef- No oven or Broiler working

I have a Magic Chef oven that the broiler and oven suddenly stopped working. The stovetop burners are working as is the clock, timer , light,etc. There are no fault codes being displayed. I unplugged the stove for 2 hours and plugged back in with no help. There are no auto/ manual settings on the controls. Is there a fuse that would affect just the broiler and oven ignitors? Where would I find the fuse, I didnt see anything under the unit by the wiring near the gas valve.
Thanks, Bill
 
Sponsored Links
  #2  
Old 10-09-05, 11:39 AM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
Received 5 Votes on 4 Posts
Hello Bill. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic.

If the stove does have a fuse, not sure it does or does not, most likely location would be under the top lid, next to the module. Some models may have two fuses. One for the HSI's (Hot Surface Glow Ignitors) and one for the sparkers. Or any combination of either above and/or simply no fuses at all. Conditions vary by mfg and model. Reason unknown for the variations.

Another location to check for a fuse would be in the back where the electrical cord enters the appliance or immediately inside the appliance where the power cord enters appliance.

More likely there is a problem or possible problem in the electrical circuity, main computer boards circuity and/or touch pad, etc. A method to determine if power is getting to the ignitors is to make a voltage check using a volt meter.

If you have a volt meter and are handy using one, test for current. Use caution while testing a live circuit. The power must be on, oven panel selection set to heat, the wire end terminal disconnected at the HSI must be disconnected.

Test for power going to the HSI from the wires terminal end. No power, the problem is in the touch pad (no contact in touch pad) or the computer board could be defective, etc. If there is power, the above is okay but the ignitor is defective. Same condition likely to apply to the broiler. Rare both oven and broiler HSI's would be inoperative at the same time, but possible.

Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Cautionary Note:
Before attempting any mechanical repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.

Help Link: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites:http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method keeps the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.

Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Web Sites Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

Personal Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
 

Last edited by Sharp Advice; 10-09-05 at 11:56 AM.
  #3  
Old 10-09-05, 12:01 PM
BSexton1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
Thanks for your help Sharp Advice. I took volt readings of 2.1 for the oven ignitor and 4.3 for the broiler ignitor. Shouldn't these both be 120? Also The control pad is in the front of the stove and can't figure out how to acccess it. I know with the sealed burners the top is not supposed to be removable but it seems the way to access control pad Any ideas how to remove top?
thanks again
 
  #4  
Old 10-09-05, 12:27 PM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
Received 5 Votes on 4 Posts
Hi: Bill

The readings indicate or imply they are OHM readings not volt readings. Check the meters settings. Once the meter is set to volts, (a setting above 120) be sure the probes are inserted into the terminal end supplying the electrical power, not into the ends of the ignitors. We need power readings not resistance (ohm) readings.

Do not be surprised to find above 120 volts. May be about 140 volts or there abouts. Electrical power does and often can vary 10 to 20 volts either above or below 120. May be right at 110 volts and still be okay.

Sealed burner tops can be difficult to open the lid and/or lift the lid but not impossible. Exactly how not specifically known. Methods do vary. A service manual would very helpful for all purposes of repairs. Specific advice is often obtainable at the local appliance part(s) stores in your local area(s).

Once the access is gained, the touch pad panel and/or circuit board can be removed. Be sure the power is off before attempting any access or part removals and/or part installations, etc. Circuity is sensitive to power variations, sparking, etc. One error can cause a burnout of the part(s).
 
  #5  
Old 10-09-05, 01:21 PM
BSexton1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
The readings are volts AC taken from the wiring going to the igniter not the igniter.
Thanks
 
  #6  
Old 10-09-05, 02:03 PM
Sharp Advice's Avatar
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 10,440
Received 5 Votes on 4 Posts
Hi: Bill

Never encountered such a low power reading taken at the terminal ends. Nor have I often even taken power readings while in the field as a service and repair rep. Nor do I often if ever suggest doing so in this topic to members. Mistakes happen and/or can happen when providing testing methods on live circuits in a text only info format such as in forum topics like these.

Either I have been lucky not encountering this condition of low volt readings or I am missing something while reading the problem descriptions or some vital info is lacking, etc.

Question:
Prior to this problem, you're saying both the oven and broiler worked properly? If such was the case, what happened between that time (when both oven and broiler worked correctly) and the present time that this condition with both oven and broiler resulted? I'm at a loss....

Contact Info:
May help to call the mfg:
Maytag Appliance Home Page:
http://www.maytag.com
Maytag 1-800-688-9900 USA
Maytag 1-800-688-2002 Canada
Maytag is also the maker of Amana, Jenn-Air, Magic Chef and Caloric Appliances.
 
  #7  
Old 10-09-05, 02:40 PM
BSexton1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
My wife was baking and noticed that the oven stopped getting hot. I checked for the ignitors to light up in the oven and then the broiler, and neither would light. Nothing out of the ordinary happened that is why I thought maybe it was a fuse but i just found a wiring diagram and it shows no fuses. I pulled the control board from the front of the unit and will see if I can get it tested somewhere tomorrow. I would like to have the other board in the bottom of the unit tested if this one checks out
Thanks
 
  #8  
Old 10-11-05, 04:24 PM
BSexton1
Visiting Guest
Posts: n/a
help

Does anybody have any ideas?
Thanks
 
Reply
Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Thread Tools
Search this Thread
 
Ask a Question
Question Title:
Description:
Your question will be posted in: