Maytag Gas Dryer Sooting Clothes


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Old 10-09-05, 03:58 PM
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Maytag Gas Dryer Sooting Clothes

I bought this propane dryer in 1995 and it worked fine until about a year ago. It was fed by a single 100 lb propane that I filled myself. It is supplied by a 15' 3/8" copper line and the tank of course is located outdoors in the elements. About the time I started noticing the sooting( I think ) I had to switch to a 50 lb tank using the same line. The problem is always the same reguardless of weather.
I removed and cleaned the vent.
Removed and blew out the line with high pressure air.
Changed the regulator
Removed and cleaned the oriface.
Checked the air band to be sure it was still set on LPG
Cut out and removed a slight kink formed by hooking to the shorter tank.

Removing the cover and observing the flame its obvious the flame is long any yellow reaching up slightly beyond the tunnel upwards. It cycles normally and dries the clothes but leaves a sooty residue on the tub and clothes. Once I had a double line hookup for another bottle and did get a mud dubber nest in end of the line which I dug out. It worked fine long after that and has since been removed for a single line. Could the gas gun in the stove be plugged somewhere or it just in need of replacement. Help me out here my T shirts are looking like a Hobo The Bum.
 

Last edited by drizler; 10-09-05 at 03:59 PM. Reason: forgot to subscribe, oops
  #2  
Old 10-09-05, 07:30 PM
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Hello D. Rizler and Welcome into my Gas Appliances topic.

Based on the problem description, what you have already done to correct the conditions and the yellow flame, which reaches up into the vent at the back of the burner shroud, I would suspect the orifice is too large for the btu capacity.

Btu range is between 18,000 to 22,000 max. An over gassed burner (orifice too large) will produce yellow flames and/or yellowed tipped flames. Check the rating plate for the btu rating. Orifice must match that rate.

Another possible cause is lint in the primary air openings located on the side of the burner tube and/or in the burner tube.

The air adjustment shutter can be adjusted by slightly unscrewing the tiny screw, opening the shutter fully and retightening that small screw to resecure the shutter. The burner tube can be cleaned out using a small rag, bottle brush or something like either of those two.

I doubt the propane supply is the cause nor the switching to a smaller tank, etc. If the tank regulator is the correct rating to supply the gas at the correct rate and the appliance gas control valve is not damage internally (by any high pressure line blowing out you did) all in that respect should be okay.

Retail local appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Use the reply button to add additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move or keep your question to the top of the forums list of questions.

Regards & Good Luck.
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Old 10-09-05, 10:56 PM
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Thanks

Those orifaces don't wear do they? Its the same one that worked fine for 9 years. I disconnected the end of the line before blowing it out too so I wouldn't rupture any diaphrams. When I did this thing I took out the whole gun assy and really cleaned and inspected it, it was sooty and coked up but thats about it and it cleaned up nicely without getting abrasive with it or reaming anything.
What should I look for on that regulator to show what its rating should be? Are they different? I got this one from the gas place and didn't pay any attention thinking they were all the same.
So at this juncture if its none of the above I guess my best bet is to take the gun assy out to the local dealer and have him look at it. I wouldn't be surprised if it crapped out as all my maytag appliances including the dryer had a problems early on. Even the dealer admitted Maytag took a big dive about then and never came back. ( I have the real Maytag stuff too, not the rebadged lines they own) . That is something they can bench test outside the unit correct?

The other thing I was wondering was what about the recommended code way to bring that gas in. Should I switch over to black pipe or is the copper ok.
 
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Old 10-10-05, 03:36 AM
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Make sure the regulator you're now using is for propane or LPG. It should say on it. It should also say the pressure of the regulator. If it says 3"w.c to 6"w.c. it's for natural gas. LP should say 9"w.c to 12"w.c. (or there about).

The wrong regulator could be a contributing factor to the symptoms you're having.
 
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Old 10-10-05, 04:55 AM
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Hello: D. Rizler.

In reply to the first paragraph in your last reply:
No. Orifices do not wear out. But the wrong one can be presently installed or the gas control valve may be for nat gas and not propane gas. Which would cause the problem of being over gased. Which then creates the sooting condition described.

Both fuel sources require different gas gas controls and orifices. They are not interchangeable. Some can be converted but not all. Therefore, it is possible the dryer you have is set up for natural gas and not propane.

Further speculation may be how (new or used) and where that dryer was purchased. You stated it was purchased in 1995. Brand new? As in never used prior? Or used? From a private party or used appliance reseller. There is a difference. Point is, which fuel source is it set up to use???

Delivery pressure(s) from the propane tank is another factor granted. But if you have a supplier who delivers the fuel, they can test the fuel delivery pressure. If the tank is the type you take to a fuel supplier for refilling, (like an outdoor BBQ would be taken in for refueling) the regulator can in fact be set incorrectly or defective. Either of which is possible.

Unless you have the proper pressure testing equipment, required skills, knowledge and experiences setting pressures, let the pros do that for you.Would be extremely difficult to use this type of text only format to describe the processes needed and also insure the testing was done correctly to insure your safety and proper dryer operation, IMO.

Good Luck.
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It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection, servicing and or repairs.

Gas Dryer Help Link:
this post
 
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Old 10-11-05, 06:20 AM
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Checked the regulator, its LPG

I bought this new in 95 installed the sears kit they sold me to convert it and of course set the air band to LPG. It worked flawlessly for years so it couldn't have been the installation.
Where are the air intakes on this gun? All I see is the air band with adjustment notch for NAT /LPG. I am off today so will remove and clean the entire gun assy. The fact you mention air intake and I can't find it makes me start thinking its the problem. Gotta do something soon my t shirts look like they are washed in a coal bin.
 
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Old 10-11-05, 05:27 PM
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I fIxed It

Thing had a ton of coke soot all along the gun. Nozzle had it too. It got a good bath in my parts cleaner and it works fine. I had cleaned it out once before but that was before I changed the regulator and blew out the lines ect. Have to keep an eye on it now and see how the flame looks in a couple months. At least its easy to access with only 2 screws.
 
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Old 10-11-05, 08:55 PM
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On the burner tube, near the back end, (nearest to the gas control valve) is the air shutter. The back end I am refering to is the end that slips onto the orifice. (Closest to the gas control valve).

The air shutter is the band that rotates around the tube. Has one small sloted screw that secures the band. That shutter needs to be fully opened or no more than 1/3 closed from the fully opened position.

If the flames are now blue with not more than just the flame tip with minor yellow color, there should be no soot produced. Be positive the entire venting system within the machine is free of any restrictions, including lint.

Any air flow throught the blower fan and it's assembly, any internal sheet metal ducting, lint filter assembly, etc must not be restricted nor linted. Air flow throught the flame shround, throught the entire machine must be free flowing. No restrictions anywhere in the external venting system either.

Once all this is checked and positive to be working and/or functioning correctly, no more sooting will occur. Be positive the exhaust vent hood's internal flapper door is free to open and close by only the exhaust air from the machine. All should than be in perfect working order.

Regards & Good Luck
 
 

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