GE Oven model# JGRP17WEP1WG problems


  #1  
Old 11-13-05, 07:40 PM
lopaka1998
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Question GE Oven model# JGRP17WEP1WG problems

Hi!,

I have a friend who has a GE oven, model #JGRP17WEP1WG

I managed to fix the control panel's oxidizing button contacts - so now the buttons work properly. But...

The oven is working intermittantly. Sometimes the oven will turn on as normal. Other times it will Beep with an F1 error. Other times it acts as if it is preparing to start, but then the display resets (the time doesn't reset - but the cook indicator, temperature, etc goes out as if I had never pressed anything).

I am at a loss. Anyone know what the F1 error is? I"m hoping it's just some broken thermistor or other sensor that needs replacing.

PS> This is a model from 1990

TIA,

--Rob
 

Last edited by lopaka1998; 11-13-05 at 07:51 PM.
  #2  
Old 11-14-05, 04:53 PM
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Fault Codes

Hello Rob. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic.

As you can determine below, the F-1 code means the control board has a defective Thermistor Control. Replacement is the only option.

Retail parts dealers and appliances parts stores can also help determine what the possible problem may be based upon that specific brand and model. Bring the make, model and serial numbers. Dealers and appliances parts stores are listed in the phone book.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Cautionary Note:
Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.

Help Link: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808

GENERAL ELECTRIC FAULT CODES:

GE Fault Codes Older Models:

Display Condition Repair
F0 and F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace ERC
F2 Oven Temp Exceeds 590
w/unlocked door High restistance or
interference in sensor
F3 Open sensor circuit Measure, should be approx.
1100 ohms
F8 Component failure Replace Control
F9 Program w/door circuit Check Wiring

Older GE Model Codes 1999 & Back

Failure Code Meaning Suspect/Check FFF Control Error, Failed EEPROM Replace Control

FO or F7 Shorted Clear/Off Key due to membrane switch,
Control or connector Shorted key panel membrane switch ERC

F2
During Bake Control senses oven temp above 615 degrees F High resistance connection in sensor circuit.

ERC- Welded bake relay contacts.
Both lock switch 1 & 2 closed at the same time.

F3 Open sensor, Sensor resistance exceeds 2900 ohms during
Bake, Broil or Clean Sensor/ Sensor Circuit connections.

F4 Shorted sensor, Sensor resistance less than 2900 ohms during
Bake, Broil or Clean Sensor/ Sensor Circuit connections.

FF Door motor saftey circuit ERC.

FAULT CODES

Fault Code Interpretation Components To Check
F-1 Communication error between touch pad and ERC (clock)
Replace the touch pad or clock.
F-2 Oven temperature sensed by electronic control Replace the clock/relay board
F-3 Open oven sensor or harness. Replace the oven sensor
F-4 Shorted oven sensor or harness Replace the oven sensor
F-5 Power to element relay disabled in cook mode Replace the clock/relay board
F-7 Shorted touch pad key sensed for 32 secs. Replace the touch pad/control panel
F-8 Shorted meat probe Replace the probe jack.
F-9 Door lock safety circuit on ERC sensed Replace the door latch assembly
F-C or F-0 Communication error between boards Replace the relay board

http://repair2000.com/fault.htm

Electric-Gas Oven-Ranges-Stoves Fault Codes:

GE-Hotpoint-RCA: Oven Fault Codes:

F0 & F1 Failed Thermistor Control Replace ERC
F2 Oven Temp Exceeds 590 with unlocked door High resistance in Sensor, likely a bad sensor
F3 Open Sensor circuit Open (blown) sensor fuse or bad Sensor
F4 Shorted wire or Sensor locate short and correct it
F7-A Function pad button stuck Clean and unstick
F7-B Bad Clock Replace Clock
F8 Electrical component failure Replace ERC
F9 Program with door circuit Check wiring.

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  #3  
Old 11-15-05, 03:22 PM
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Fo Error Code

i have the same problem with F0 error code model #JGRP17WEW4WW. I changed the control panel & still get the same error. Does that mean I need to replace the clock? Is that what is called ERC? Any one with helpful idea!
Troubled
 
  #4  
Old 11-15-05, 06:22 PM
lopaka1998
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...

Depends on several things - what year is this model? The error codes changed in the late '90's - see sharp advice's post above for the "older" error code meanings.

IF it is an "older" model, the F0 error code means there is an error in the thermistor readout somewhere. A thermistors have several functions, one being to measure the amount of heat. In this instance, the thermistor is reading the temperature of the oven and sending that information back to the "brain" of the oven which is located in the square thing which incases the clock - also known as the ERC. I would assume the ERC stands for Electronic Relay Control (although I can't verify this). I saw 3 relay switches in mine.

I have personally opened the ERC up - to fix a button issue and can tell you right now that there are a LOT of electrical components in there - which means it would be difficult to find the exact part failing.

If changing that part altogether (the ERC) did not solve your issue, then I would next guess that the thermistor sensor and / or the wiring inbetween the sensor and the ERC itself is malfunctioning. I would replace the sensor and the wiring (remember - those components are continually receiving hundreds of degrees of heat - and in the electronics world heat is always an enemy).

Unfortunately I don't have the exact sensor specifications available. I would guess the minimum sensor reading is 100 degrees farenheit, as that is the lowest reading that shows on my friend's readout, but that could also just be a pre-programmed "starting point".

Also I was curious where you obtained your part from - as I am looking for a replacement myself.

Thanks,

--Rob

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 10-27-06 at 06:42 AM.
  #5  
Old 11-17-05, 04:28 PM
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GE wall mount gas oven JGRP17WEW4WW

Thanks Rob for the feedback.

Our 24" wall mount gas oven is a GE made is probably a 1999 or 98 model. It came with the house & it was new when we bought the house in 1999.
I purchased the control panel from "pcappliancerepair.com" with out taking their retun policy into consideration. Any electrical parts won't be returned if the wires or harnesses are attached. I hooked mine though I took it out by definition I may not be able to return it. They are a bit cheaper & unless you know exactlly what you looking for I don't advice to buy from them. Now with an advice of online tech guru I ordered the ERC from another site called "the samuraiapliance repair forum" & am hoping changing the ERC will solve the problem. It is returnable but will pay a bit more.

Now from your assesment what is worring me is if the problem is the thermister senser & don't know which one it is. how do you check this? I have unplugged & plug all the electrical connectors attached to the clock & don't see any wear & tear or burned areas. Your advice is appreciated.
Gideon
 
  #6  
Old 11-17-05, 08:09 PM
lopaka1998
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Hi Gideon,

Okay then it is most likely the "older" models - thus a bad readout.

Definately worth the additional cost in this case. I usually am against warranties and such, but when it comes to dealing with electronics, repair can be a bit of a trial and error situation. You often times can guess as of the general area the problem is coming from, but I have found that often times it takes a little trial and error as well. Keep in mind that although this is a gas appliance, it is completely controlled electronically.

If you ever decide to buy a new oven, I would highly recommend staying away from the electronic stuff - stay with an older oven with gas knobs. You may not get as exact, constant temperature, but you won't get equipment that fails in 5-7 years either. My oven is a 1930's Kenmore - and it still works flawlessly (with occasional maintenance). Sometimes you just can't beat simple!

Don't worry. When repairing anything - be it electrical or otherwise, the first rule of thumb is take your time. Don't rush into anything.

As for my assessment, it can not be taken in stone either. Every situation is different. I think you are on the right track. The manufacturer suggests replacing the ERC (clock, and electronic brains of the oven) in the event of an F0 or F1 error. There are literally hundreds of electrical parts in that ERC - and remember just one failing can cause a problem. Since the manufacturer suggests replacing the ERC first I would guess that the signal from the thermistor may be correct - but one of the parts that processes that signal into a number that the computer understands may be at fault - and thus that error occurs.

Can you intermittantly start your oven? I have found my friend's oven will show 100 degrees farenheit, wait a few seconds, and the clock display will clear the mode it's in (bake for instance) and the initial temperature and just show the time. Sometimes though if I hit bake, change the temperature, and hit bake again, the oven starts properly (sometimes!).

You are on the right track with your oven - and in the case it does not fix the problem you can return the part. So I would wait for the part to arrive, install it, and cross your fingers. If that doesn't solve the problem, you can return the ERC and then think about replacing thermistor sensor(s).

Reading the sensor itself is a little tricky. First you have get to the sensor. The sensor itself is very similar to a resistor. A thermistor changes the amount of resistance (Ohms) going through the thermistor as the temperature rises or lowers. The ERC reads the resistance change and turns that into a temperature. In order to do this, you would need to know the minimum resistance level and the highest. Without the specifications, it would be difficult to measure.

When something is intermittant, it is even more difficult to diagnose as sometimes it may be working properly!

Sometimes you will see electrical "wear" - burned or browned areas and / or parts. But a lot of parts won't show any sign of overload - even if it isn't working properly or is receiving too much power.

When taking the ERC (clock) out, I always put some masking tape on each wire leading into the oven - and give it a number from right to left (as for my model this is the easiest way to take it apart). This makes is so much easier to get the wires in the right plugs when re-assembling!

As of now, that is about the best advice I can offer. And if the repair is unsucessful, this message board will still be here. And you can always reply back here or send me a private message.

Best of luck,

--Rob

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Last edited by Sharp Advice; 10-27-06 at 06:41 AM.
  #7  
Old 11-18-05, 09:21 AM
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Talking GE Oven

Thanks Rob for sharing your deep knowledge. I will follow your instruction on replacing the ERC as soon as I recive the item & keep you posted of the out come.

To answer your question if I can intermittantly start the oven; when the start button is pressed the fan starts running for under a minute & goes off with no change on the clock display. The other buttons are just dead except running the fan when pressed in combination with the start button.

Wish me good luck.
 
  #8  
Old 11-23-05, 11:34 AM
Gideon
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Smile Weeeeeeeha. It is working

Thanks Rob & everyone for your valuable information & instruction, I am finally able to run my wall mount GE oven. Changing the ERC solved the problem. With out changing the touch pad it is running for now though I don't know for how long. I still have the control panel that I purchased online & I may not be able to get my money if I return it. The old panel works fine & am wondering to keep it or try to sell it on ebay.

One other problem I observed while carefully plugging the wires to the new clock is that the old ERS had a plug for Gnd(grounding) & the new ERC doesn't have one. On the old ERC a green wire was plugged & one side was screwed to the base of the control panel & the other end screwed to the base of the oven near the fan. As the new ERC does not have a plug for I just removed the whole wire & wondering if this has damaging effect in the long run.
Should I just cut the plug out & screw the wire on the panel & the oven or just leave it with out the ground wiring. I see another green wire attached on the other side of the clock but not on the panel. Please advice me on how to proceed with this.

Again I really thanks all for helping me out.
Gideon
 
  #9  
Old 10-04-06, 04:11 PM
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GE Model JGRP17wew4ww-Fault code F7

I had the FO error code that I had changed the touchpad & ERC to solve the problem. Now less than a year I see the F7 code that goes away for a while when the power swith is turned off. Theon/off switch does not clear it & I can't even adjust the cliock. Actually non of the button works. I am wondering what the problem is now. Hope I don't need to change the same parts. Can someone give me a hint.
Thanks
Gideon
 
  #10  
Old 10-26-06, 10:28 PM
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Go to...

Go to http://www.repairclinic.com/0078.asp.-----OR----- http://www.appliancefactoryparts.com/applianceshvac/help-center/fault-codes/fault-codes-ranges.html. All repair codes are listed, for all makes. I think this is you code info is: F0 and F1--Failed Thermostat Control -- Replace Electronic Range Control (ERC). On the same site, look up your schematic, and identify the part number for the control. (This info is also in your owners manual.) Price it on the net, or locally. If available, they will all gladly mail it to you. (Then you donít have to hunt the parts warehouse!) Itís not hard to do. Taking everything apart to access the ERC is the biggest hassle. For me the question was whether to spend money on a 17-year-old stove or replace it. (By the way, Iím not in the repair business. Iím a history professor at the local University. Good luck! Anna
 
 

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