Gas range: Oven doesn't heat. All else works.

Old 12-26-05, 08:49 PM
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Gas range: Oven doesn't heat. All else works.

Hi all,

I have a Tappan range with top burners, oven and broiler. All work but the oven.

I ran a few simple tests and this is what I've come up with:

With the oven set to start automatically at 100 degress (whatever temp you select it always goes back to 100) the ignitor bar does not heat all. It also appears that no gas is produced as well.

I removed the ignitor and it appears to be in good shape, no cracks and tests good for continutity...pins the meter. Should there be resistance?

I also checked to see if there was current at the connector to the ignitor and there was none. (I disconnected the ignitor to check)

So, if the ignitor is shot does it prevent the valve (dual gas safety valve?) from providing gas?

I figure it's the safety valve, thermostat (probe) or perhaps the ignitor....what should I check to narrow the search down?

Thanks for any help!

Old 12-27-05, 04:21 AM
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Hello Rick and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliances topic.

No electrical to ignitor? Check for an inline fuse to the ignition system. Fuse, if there is one and likely to be one will be located where the power cord enters the oven near the gas valve. Fuse okay? Ohm test it. May look okay and still be defective. Replace if needed. Fuse is a special appliance fuse.

Not the fuse. Either the gas valve is defective or the glow ignitor is weak. The glow ignitor may be glowing but simply not hot enough to pass enough current to the gas valve. High resistance means ignitor is using all the available current which allows none to get to the gas valve. Valve needs 5 volts to operate.

Hot surface ignitors use current to glow but they require plenty. When they reach a preset value of resistance to the current they allow 5 volts to pass onto the gas valve so it can open.

A weak ignitor is absorbing too much current in an attempt to glow hot enough to provide positive ignition. Little or No current is left to activate the gas valve.

Best first attempt to fix it is to replace that ignitor. Unplug the appliance and remove the existing ignitor. Replace it with exact OEM ignitor. Subsitute brand names may not be equally the same. Buy the OEM type at any local appliance parts dealer in your area.

Most replacement ignitors come already equipped with the quick disconnect reinstalled on the wire end of the new ignitor. If not you will have to clip off the end from the old ignitor and install it on the new ignitors wires. Polarity is not important in this case.

Try this first and note the results. If it resolves the problem, post back the results. If the new ignitor does not correct the problem, than the only other option may be to replace the gas valve.

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Cautionary Reminder Note:
Before attempting any repairs, be sure to unplug the appliance from the wall receptacle power source first.

Help Link: Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information & Manufacturers Web Sites:

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