Whirlpool Gas Dryer


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Old 01-04-06, 06:48 PM
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Whirlpool Gas Dryer

I have a Whirlpool gas dryer with heating problems. Everything appears to work fine, the glow thing glows and then you hear the solenoid click and then flames. But after a couple of minutes, the flame goes out. The drum still turns. If I let it cool off for a few minutes, it will work again for a few minutes. Is there a thermocouple or anything like that that I can check?

Thanks,
Ken
 
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Old 01-05-06, 05:12 AM
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Restricted Vent or Solenoids

Hello Ken. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

Suspecting the exhaust venting system is restricted. Unplug the dryer from the electrical power source. Turn off the gas to the machine at the gas supply line. There should be a shut off valve on the supply pipe for this purpose.

Once that is accomplished, pull the machine out so you can access behind it. Being careful not to damage the gas line or venting system.

Once that is done, disconnect the vent from the dryer. Than remove the panel access to the interior back side of the machine. Clean as needed. Reinstall the back panel.

To clean the venting system you'll most likely have to remove the venting plastic tubing if plastic is used. Best bet is to simply replace it with new tubing. It's inexpensive & easy to work with.

If the venting system is metal tubing, it may have to be disconnected in sections etc to access the inside and clean it out. Do not forget to inspect and clean as needed the outside vent hood. Inside the hood is a flapper vent. It should freely be able to flap up and down. If not free it up and or replace it.

All other possible causes are covered in detail in the help link.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will quickly provide you with answers to questions & provide additional information on how to resolve the problem.

Dryer help info: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Use the reply button to add additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move or keep your question to the top of the forums list of questions.

Sears Appliance Parts & Repair:
Sears Home Page:
http://www.sears.com

Sears Search By Model Number Page:
http://www3.sears.com

Whirlpool's Home Web Site: (Also makes appliances for Sears)
http://www.whirlpool.com

If you need further assistance, use the REPLY button to add any additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically keep your question at the top of the forum list.

Regards & Good Luck. Sharp Advice
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Old 01-05-06, 05:55 AM
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Thanks for the answer. Sorry, I should have said that I already saw that thread and checked/cleaned the vent (it wasn't clogged). Could it be the cycling thermostat? How come there are 4 wires on it and how do I test it.
Thanks again
Ken
 
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Old 01-05-06, 05:51 PM
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Hello: Ken

If we can be assured the problem is not caused by the venting system, we can than suspect the solenoids, blower fan area linted up excessively, fan speed too slow or fan loose on motor shaft and/or the flame sensor is defective. Not as likely a thermostat problem. Could be but not as likely.

T-Stat can be tested for continuity but that really does not tell us much, imo. When not heated it will have a closed circuit. When it opens it has to be warmed. Not much else can be determined, imo. Test if you like to.

A better test is to remove the vent from the dryer and attempt to dry a load of clothes vent removed. No harm, health or safety issues involved in most instances. During such time observe the hot surface ignitor HSI, listen to the clicks of the solenoids.

First click turns on ignitor and opens one internal valve in the gas control. Second click opens next valve and burner gas flows, burner lights. Flames should be pointed into the burner shroud not touching any of shrouds surfaces, etc.

Read a few other possible causes and solutions in the sticky note. One of them likely applies. http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Regards.
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Old 01-06-06, 04:32 AM
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Thanks alot for all the help.
After having time to sit and play with this thing, what's hapening is sometimes the second solenoid chatters and does not always let the gas through. Everything else works as it should. So do you think it's the coil or the valve itself? There is 115V at the teminal when it calls for gas. I didn't measure the coil resistance.
Thanks again.
 
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Old 01-06-06, 05:59 AM
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Hi Ken

If a solenoid is suspected or makes a noise you can hear....you likely have found the problem part(s). Replace them both. Not difficult nor expensive parts.

How to replace them in the sticky note. The solenoids are on top of the gas control. Control does not need to be replaced. Only the two solenoids. Do that and problem should be solved based upon the info you provided.

Sticky note:
Dryer help info: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481
 
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Old 01-07-06, 02:11 PM
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venting problem test first find the vent termination point.
turn on the dryer and put your hand over the vent outlet it should blow your hand away. some vents clogg at the point of exit
 
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Old 01-09-06, 04:59 AM
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Well guys thanks for all the tips. It was the three terminal solenoid coil. It would open when it got hot. $15 later problem solved.
Thanks again.
 
 

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