(Dryer Solenoid Replacement) Burner Access
#1
01-16-06, 09:27 PM
In need of help (Dryer Solenoid Replacement)
Hello everybody: My name is Reiner and I am new to this forum. I am in need of some advise on how to fix my Frigidaire model FDG546RES0 gas dryer. I think I located the problem, the coil on the gas valve, but have no idea how to get there. Could someone give me a tip how to open the back or side to get to it. Your help would be very much appreciated.
Thank you! Rbi
Thank you! Rbi
Last edited by RBI; 01-16-06 at 09:45 PM. Reason: wrong model number
#2
01-17-06, 06:28 AM
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Hello RBI. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.
Remove the burner compartment access panel, turn the dryer on and note if the glow ignitor glows. If it does, it will begin glowing after you hear that first click, which is one of the two solenoids opening.
The glow ignitor (HSI) must glow. It must be HOT and glow an INTENSE bright yellow orange color. If not, it's considered to be burned out. If it fails to glow at all, it's also possible it's completely burned out.
Shortly after the glow ignitor reaches full glow, the second solenoid should click open. Youll hear the second click. If no second click is heard, the glow ignitor will turn off and stop glowing. If this happens, both the solenoids {2} must be replaced.
The solenoid coils are mounted directly on top of the gas valve. Each has a wire harness assembly with a plastic quick disconnect attached. The coils must be removed and replaced.
There are two solenoids...both are on top of the gas valve.
The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite the norm to loosen it.
There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.
Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs.
Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.
Once at the store, the salesperson can be sure the replacement parts are the correct ones. Replacing the solenoids is simple and the parts come with full instructions inclosed in the packages.
Should you or any other topic readers be concerned with doing volt and ohm tests, etc. I do not recommend them. The parts wear out, are not costly, are relatively easy to replace and the practice doing it yourself is rewarding....
Tips:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several electrical parts. However, I do not recommend relying solely on either test to determine if any electrical or electronic part or parts are causing the problem. The idea is not to replace costly parts until the defective one is found.
The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential problems, and have the local appliance parts store person test it or check it. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances.
There are several other possibilities. All of which are covered in detail in prior postings on the same topic of dryers that do not heat, etc. Reading those topics will disclose the potential problems and the solutions.
Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.
CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!
Flame Sensor could be the problem. This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem you're describing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.
Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable.
Gas Dryer Help Link:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159481
Assorted Other Possibilities:
Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons.
Timers also have cams <lobes> that open and close those contact points. If the timer hangs-up on a lobe, it may or may not advance to the next cycle.
If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem you're having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.
If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.
Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely soley on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.
The Fuseable Link:
Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.
If you need further assistance, use the reply button. By doing so, the additional information you add or questions you may have, will remain within this posting. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.
Check the prior questions pertaining to dryers, within this forum, for other postings on this topic for additional information.
Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
Remove the burner compartment access panel, turn the dryer on and note if the glow ignitor glows. If it does, it will begin glowing after you hear that first click, which is one of the two solenoids opening.
The glow ignitor (HSI) must glow. It must be HOT and glow an INTENSE bright yellow orange color. If not, it's considered to be burned out. If it fails to glow at all, it's also possible it's completely burned out.
Shortly after the glow ignitor reaches full glow, the second solenoid should click open. Youll hear the second click. If no second click is heard, the glow ignitor will turn off and stop glowing. If this happens, both the solenoids {2} must be replaced.
The solenoid coils are mounted directly on top of the gas valve. Each has a wire harness assembly with a plastic quick disconnect attached. The coils must be removed and replaced.
There are two solenoids...both are on top of the gas valve.
The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite the norm to loosen it.
There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.
Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs.
Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.
Once at the store, the salesperson can be sure the replacement parts are the correct ones. Replacing the solenoids is simple and the parts come with full instructions inclosed in the packages.
Should you or any other topic readers be concerned with doing volt and ohm tests, etc. I do not recommend them. The parts wear out, are not costly, are relatively easy to replace and the practice doing it yourself is rewarding....
Tips:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several electrical parts. However, I do not recommend relying solely on either test to determine if any electrical or electronic part or parts are causing the problem. The idea is not to replace costly parts until the defective one is found.
The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential problems, and have the local appliance parts store person test it or check it. Appliance parts dealers carry replacement parts for all appliances and are listed in the phone book under appliances.
There are several other possibilities. All of which are covered in detail in prior postings on the same topic of dryers that do not heat, etc. Reading those topics will disclose the potential problems and the solutions.
Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable. Replacement is the only option if defective.
CAUTION: Do Not attempt to repair the gas valve! This is a non repairable item!
Flame Sensor could be the problem. This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow coil to not function or cause the problem you're describing. You can test this part with a continuity tester or an ohm meter.
Defective Gas Valve could be the problem. Remove entire unit as an assembly. Take the entire assembly to your local appliance parts store for testing. Gas valves are not repairable.
Gas Dryer Help Link:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showth...hreadid=159481
Assorted Other Possibilities:
Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons.
Timers also have cams <lobes> that open and close those contact points. If the timer hangs-up on a lobe, it may or may not advance to the next cycle.
If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem you're having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.
If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.
Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely soley on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.
The Fuseable Link:
Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.
If you need further assistance, use the reply button. By doing so, the additional information you add or questions you may have, will remain within this posting. Using this method also moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.
Check the prior questions pertaining to dryers, within this forum, for other postings on this topic for additional information.
Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using this method moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically.
Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
Personal Driving Safety Reminder:
Buckle Up & Drive Safely.
"The Life You Save, May Be Your Own."
#3
01-17-06, 01:08 PM
Thank you for your reply. Based on your information I looks like a solenoid problem. But were is the burner compartment access panel? Is this the vent type inlet on the rear bottom left, I would condider this difficult to get in there, there must be another housing part I can remove to have access to it. I am usualy pretty handy but this thing looks totaly shut to me.
Thanks for your help.
Rbi
Thanks for your help.
Rbi
#4
01-17-06, 01:22 PM
Burner compartment access panel??
Thanks Sharp Advise for your help. Based on your info I think it is a solenoid problem, the second click is missing. Now my question, were is the access panel, I have trouble finding anything removable other then the vent type air inlet on the bottom left in the rear.
#5
01-17-06, 07:39 PM
Admin Emeritus
Join Date: Feb 1998
Location: The Shake and Bake State USA
Posts: 9,927
Upvotes: 0
Received 7 Upvotes
on
6 Posts
Hello: Rbi
Some brand models will not have a front access (trap door) access panel. Some models the entire lower panel beneath the clothes loading door panel is removeable. This type should have two screws at the bottom front of the machine. Screws come out and panel lifts outwards.
Some models the entire front of the machine has to be removed. Several different methods used here also. Some models front panel gets removed by taking out several screws inside the door frame only and some also have two screws at the based of the front panel.
There is no standardization method even between models of the same brand name. One has to look carefully for screws to remove and hindges after screws removed and panel can be moved.
Some models the top lifts up. Two front clips hold the top down to the front panel. Clips are located several inches in from each end. Can be seen with a flashlight looking through the crack between top lid and front panel. Once located, use a blade to push them backwards towards the back of the machine.
Some brand models will not have a front access (trap door) access panel. Some models the entire lower panel beneath the clothes loading door panel is removeable. This type should have two screws at the bottom front of the machine. Screws come out and panel lifts outwards.
Some models the entire front of the machine has to be removed. Several different methods used here also. Some models front panel gets removed by taking out several screws inside the door frame only and some also have two screws at the based of the front panel.
There is no standardization method even between models of the same brand name. One has to look carefully for screws to remove and hindges after screws removed and panel can be moved.
Some models the top lifts up. Two front clips hold the top down to the front panel. Clips are located several inches in from each end. Can be seen with a flashlight looking through the crack between top lid and front panel. Once located, use a blade to push them backwards towards the back of the machine.
