Whirlpool Gas Dryer won't heat

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  #1  
Old 01-30-06, 07:28 PM
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Me Too! 3 year old Whirlpool

Same problem , No Heat!. I replaced the thermal fuse and the gas burner ignitor and the thing worked for under an hour. I then read where you may need to replace the thermostat. I purchased another thermal fuse, Thermostat (not the bios thermostat) and a Propane Orifice to replace the LP orifice that the guy put in when he converted the thing from natural gas too Propane. While I had it apart I blew everything out and removed all the loose change and exteraneous metal got quite a pile of all things. I replaced the back and front cover connected up the gas line and checked for leaks. Everything was good so I plugged it back in kept my fingers crossed and pressed the start button... NO HEAT, Help got a 100 bucks into it and it still don't work.. I took off the the little inspection plug on the front of the machine and watched to see if the Ignitor glowed. It Doesn't (bad unit or did something else knock out the ignitor again?). I don't have a testor should I have the continuity tested and if so which units?
 
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Old 01-30-06, 08:41 PM
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Hello WhiteHair. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

I seperated your question from the older thread. Your question is now a question of it's own, as it should be....

Most likely the solenoids are defective. They set up on top of the gas control valve. Have to be removed and replaced.

More detailed info here:
Dryer help info: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Additional Suggestions:
Read the manufacturers online web site for product information, problem possibilities, causes, solving methods, part locations, disassembly, reassembly methods, repair procedures, pictorials, schematics, downloadable repair and or owners manuals which may be available online.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Read the existing questions on the subject of dryers. Doing so will quickly provide you with answers to questions & provide additional information on how to resolve the problem.

Use the reply button to add additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move or keep your question to the top of the forums list of questions.

Regards & Good Luck. Web Site Host, Forums Monitor, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator & Multiple Forums Moderator. Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.

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It's always adviseable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection, servicing and or repairs.
 
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Old 02-02-06, 08:24 PM
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Well the $64 Solenoids came today and I just completed installing them. To no avail.... So far I have replaced the Ignitor, Thermo Fuse (Twice), Theromstat (not the Bios Thermostat), Blew out the entire unit and removed all the sand, metal and coins and still have no dryer. Man this sucks.. The machine is easy enough to work on but other than that one load almost getting dry after the fuse and Ignitor were replaced as the first repair made, this thing hasnt worked.

Only thing left is the thermostat internal-bias. Any chance that one of the new parts has failed as well? I've always swore by Whirlpool , every appliance in the house is a Whirlpool. But this has me thinking...
 
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Old 02-03-06, 05:00 AM
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Hello: WhiteHair.

I'm getting white hair thinking about this myself...HUMMMM. Lets see.

Next step in the diagnostic process would be to test the flame sensor. Which is located on the flame shroud to the right side of the burner flames.

Use an ohm/volt meter to test for continuity. Besure the electrical power is off and the machine unpluged from the power. The ohm reading should be full continuity, needle swings fully to the right. Readings are not important. All that needs to be known is the circuit is closed. If not, flame sensor is defective. Rarely is but always possible.

Another possible cause is no current to the hot surface glow ignitor (HSI) To test this you will need power to the machine. Disconnect the HSI wires and using volt meter test for current while machine is running. Should have full current to the HSI. Full current would be 120-140 volts.

If no current is there at wire terminal ends, may be the flame sensor and or the thermostat, which operates the entire system. Internal contacts of t-stat may be defective or the electronic circuit is defective, if equipped with such.

Next would be the gas control valve, if the other parts test okay and the ignitor glows even briefly. Both thermostat and gas valve are far more expensive. Thermostat is the more likely of the two componets which are more likely to cause the problem.

Difficult to determine an exact cause for you but do hope I am providing some possible causes and possible parts you can test, diagnose if working, etc. and replace if determined defective.

Also ask at the local appliance store where parts are sold. Sometimes the over the counter sales of parts is the better method because of the verbal and technical in person help provided by those whom are in the know whom work there and deal with these issues daily. May cost more but you get the advice too, which is not possible with online parts sales.

The link also provides phone number to the manufacturers help lines. Might be worth a call to their service department. Good Luck.
 
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