help! glow bar or gas valve?

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Old 02-05-06, 06:17 PM
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Question help! glow bar or gas valve?

Hi,

Im trying to fix a whirlpool gas oven. GAs wont come to the burners and It wont ignite. The glow coil is rated at 3.6/3.3 amps. i tested it when it glowed and it drew 3 amps. It glows bright yellow but it takes about 8 seconds to reach this temperature, and I read if it's current draw is 2% out it should be replaced. Could it still be the safety valve thats faulty? If so ill ship both parts in from the states. Otherwise il just buy a glow coil. I tested the voltage being supplied to it and it 110 volts, which is what we have here in the cayman islands.

Also, are there likely to be more than one shut-offs to the safety valve? I could only find one and it was on the top part of the stove. I tried rotating it clockwise and anti clockwise but it still wouldnt ignite.

Many thanks for any help in advance.

Dale.
 
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Old 02-05-06, 08:35 PM
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Hot Surface Ignitor (Glow Bar)

Hello Dale and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and my Gas Appliances topic.

No. Not likely to be more than one shut off valve. A tiny brass or bronze valve with a stem rod lever that turns 1/4 turn only. No more than that one. It's called an isolation valve and/or runaway valve.

Most likely only the Hot Surface ignitor is too weak to glow hot enough to allow the gas valve to open. Ignitor is drawing to much current. All that is available and nothing left to allow gas valve to open. Valve operates on 5 volts and ignitor must draw all but that five. Ignitor operates more on electrical resistance and not voltage so much.

Replace the ignitor as the first step attempt correctional method. Likely to resolve the problem.

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Old 02-06-06, 06:20 AM
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Question current in glow coil

HI,

Thanks for your reply. Im glad it seems to be only the glow coil. I might be able to get one of those here.

I dont understand one thing though. When I checked the current draw through the glow coil and afety valve circuit it was 3 amps. The rating on the glow coil is 3.3/3.6. I took this to mean the currebt being drawn was too low. Also the thing does get almost white hot eventually, it just seems to take a while to get there.

THanks,
Dale.
 
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Old 02-06-06, 07:15 AM
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Hello:

"it just seems to take a while to get there."
My point exactly...a weak ignitor. Regardless of current draw, etc. One primary reason why I do not often use volts, ohm's amp's or resistence values as a guide to determine a problem cause. Nor do I often advise members to check any of them.

Replace the HSI (Hot Surface Ignitor) and most likely the problem will be solved....
 
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