GE oven and broiler flame erratic


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Old 10-26-06, 12:04 PM
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GE oven and broiler flame erratic

Good day,
I have a GE Profile model JGB908CEK5CC. It is set up for NG which I have. I purchased it at a recent divorce sale. It was hooked up but never used. When I removed my old stove (30 year old) I decided to replace the gas fittings on both the gas pipe and the stove. The gas line is 3/4" so I went with 3/4" fittings as well. I had to remove the hose that came with the new stove as it was kinked terribly. It was a 1/2" hose. When I tried to remove it it was extremely tight. I had two wrenches, one on the regulator and the other on the fitting. When it finally came loose there was so much force that I sheared the brass fitting between regulator and the safety valve. I was able to find another fitting and put everything back together. The problem I am having now is when I turn on the oven I can watch the flame and everything looks fine. After about 20-30 seconds the flame starts moving away from the gas tube. It will be 1-4 inches away and will sometimes start going out closest to the gas source. If I open the door it will most of the time settle back down for a few seconds before doing it again. I verified that the vent is not obstructed. I verified that all the, for lack of a better word, fittings are set for NG and not LP. The injectors were set at about 4 turns from bottom. I tried them at 2 1/2 turns from the bottom as well with no change. I'm wondering if I damaged the regulator or the safety valve while I was trying to replace the hose.

Thanks in advance for any help or insight into my problem,
Regards
Phil
 
  #2  
Old 10-26-06, 09:46 PM
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Hello Phil. Welcome to my Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

If the top burners are working correctly, flames not too large and/or not blowing, chances are the gas pressure is correct. No damage to the regulator.

However, oven flames are still smothering from a lack of oxygen. Oven baking compartment may have an obstruction like aluminum foil on racks, on panel plates or vent is restricted and or blocked but not visible to see it.

Burner may be over gassed. Too much gas passing through the orifice. Orifice may not have been changed or is incorrectly sized for fuel type used.

Additional Help Here:
Read the Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Informational Sticky Note, in this forums topic, for more detailed information.

Range-Stove-Oven-Broiler Basic Help Information, Fault Codes & Mfg's Web Site Links http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159808

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be also. They will need the make, model an serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

***If and or when you attempt any repairs, "Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever the appliance is moved and/or a repair includes any connection of a gas part."

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  #3  
Old 10-27-06, 04:28 PM
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Thanks for the tips SA. As for foil in the oven there is none. The vent appears open and is rather large as it seems to span the width of the oven. I was able to get a hanger up through it and doesn't appear to be blocked anywhere. After reading the basic oven range help the words I should be using are the flame is lifting of the gas tube. I double checked the set up of the oven and it is set up for NG. I have the air adjustment shutter just about closed down. Is there a specific depth that the injector is supposed to be inside the tube? Thanks again for the help.
 
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Old 10-27-06, 07:20 PM
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Hello: Phil

Very good chance the orifice for the oven burner is not sized correctly for the BTU rating. You stated you checked it. Question is how?

Rate plate must be located. On it will be the BTU rating for that size burner. Orifice must be sized to the BTU rating. May need to be checked for size.

Have you attempted to adjust burner flame size? Closing down the orifice by turning it clockwise. Which closes down the orifice size on many but not all burners. Some orifices are non adjustable.

We are working through the steps here. I read what you have and have done. Adding more possibilities as we progress through the diagnostic process.

Vent cleared. No foil in oven. Flames return to normal with oven door open but soon return to enlarged size when door closed.

Top burners work correctly??? Advise. A need to (must) know condition. May indicate fuel pressure problem caused by damage appliance regulator.

Once again use reply button >>>Add as much details and specific information as you can next reply.
 
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Old 10-28-06, 12:09 AM
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Hello SA,
I checked the orifice by pulling the gas tube and checking the numbers stamped on them.

Broiler is labeled .0670
Oven is labeled 49-56

I pulled the sheet off the back of the range and the listing for NG is
Broiler #51(.067)
Bake #49(.073)

Also on the sheet is has the conversion to LP as turning the orifice until it is snug (approximately 2 1/2 turns). I made sure that this was set to 2 1/2 turns from snug. Originally it was set to 4 turns out.

The rate plate states
NG LP
RR 5000 4000
LR 9100 8000
LF 11000 10000
RF 17000 11000
Center 6000 6000
Bake 16000 16000
Broil 13500 12000

The top burners do appear to work correctly. They aren't as quiet as the old stove and actually sound as if wind is trying to blow it out when on high. The burners also seem to pulse.

I did pull off the top of the stove to verify the vent as well. My earlier statement the the vent is the width of the stove is incorrect. It is approximately 8" wide but it still is not obstructed.
Thanks for the continued help.
Phil
 
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Old 10-29-06, 04:13 AM
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Hello: Phil

Based upon the statement about the top burners not being quite and flames blowing when set in high flame, description likely to indicate a pressure problem exists.

What now leads to these questions:

Is there any other gas appliances in the home? Yes? or No?

Do they, if any others, operate correctly? Yes? or No?

Next step is an attempt to determine if a pressure problem is present and exactly where. May be with the gas supply regulator to the entire house and/or only with the stove.

Assumption is Nat gas to house likely indicates not gas suppliers regulator. or all other appliances would exhibit similar problems. Also can call Nat gas supplier and have their service rep check gas supply pressure into house gas line.

If any problem exists with gas companies regulator, they will correct the problem on their equipment. Customers should never attempt any services to company gas equipment. Call the supplier and request a pressure test be done on their equipment.

If that condition proves okay, then pressure problem exists with appliance regulator. Replace it. Not expensive part. Install new appliance regulator and problem should then be resolved.
 
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Old 10-29-06, 10:34 PM
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Hello SA,
Yes there are additional gas appliances. Water heater and furnace. Both appear to be functioning fine. The furnace is less than four years old and was installed by a professional. Previous stove also worked without issues. Yes it is Natural gas to the house. If I get a few minutes tomorrow I will contact gas company and ask about a pressure test.. I have the part number for the reg and it only comes as a unit with the safety valve. No one seems to have any on hand. So it will be a few weeks before I can replace and confirm it.

Thank you for your patience and help.
Phil
 
 

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