Maytag DG303 Lighting and Timer Problem


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Old 03-17-07, 03:17 PM
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Maytag DG303 Lighting and Timer Problem

Hello. I am new to this forum.

I have 2 problems with my Maytag DG303 dryer. Maybe they are related?

1. When I first turn it on everything seems to work fine for a couple of lights of the burner. However after those first lights, the ignitor gets orange, but the burner does not ignite, and then the ignitor goes off. This cycle continues and the dryer does not turn off (see 2).

2. The timer does not move towards off while the dryer is running in any of the less dry through more dry settings, and does not shut off. However if I set it near the off position and turn it on, it will run for a few minutes and then buzz and shut off normally.

Any help?
 
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Old 03-17-07, 04:34 PM
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Hello noflame. Welcome to the Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

One of the common problems for the condition described is weak solenoids coils. Remove the burner compartment access panel, turn the dryer on and note if the glow igniter glows. If it does, it will begin glowing after you hear that first click, which is one of the two solenoids opening.

The glow igniter must glow. It must be HOT and glow an INTENSE bright yellow orange color. If not, it's considered to be burned out. If it fails to glow at all, it's also possible it's completely burned out.

Shortly after the glow igniter reaches full glow, the second solenoid should click open. You'll hear the second click. If no second click is heard, the glow igniter will turn off and stop glowing. If this happens, both the solenoids {2} must be replaced.

The solenoid coils are mounted directly on top of the gas valve. Each has a wire harness assembly with a plastic quick disconnect attached. The coils must be removed and replaced.

There are two solenoids...both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.

All terminals on both solenoids must have continuity. If not, you'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first.

To accomplish this task, the entire burner and gas valve must be removed. Then the solenoid coils can be removed from the top of the gas valve and replaced.

The gas inlet pipe to the right side of the gas valve has a tiny on/off gas shutoff valve. Turn it off, lever opposite it's current on position. The nut on the gas supply pipe near the gas valve is counter threaded, which means it turns opposite the norm to loosen it.

There will be other sheet metal screws securing the gas valve and burner assembly to the dryers base. Once the entire gas valve is removed, take it and the make, model and serial numbers of the appliance to the local appliance retail parts store.

Remove both solenoids off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate and replace them both if defective. They are sold only in pairs.

Or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and all the parts tested individually and as an assembly.

Once at the store, the salesperson can be sure the replacement parts are the correct ones. Replacing the solenoids is simple and the parts come with full instructions in-closed in the packages.

Should you or any other topic readers be concerned with doing volt and ohm tests, etc. I do not recommend them. The parts wear out, are not costly, are relatively easy to replace and the practice doing it yourself is rewarding....

Additional Dryer help here: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Retail parts dealers can also help determine what the possible problem may be. Bring the make, model and serial numbers if you stop in at the store. The info will help to determine the possible problem causes.

Be sure the appliance is turned off before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks whenever a repair includes any connection of a gas part, gas line or tubing or gas supply.

Read the prior asked questions in this forum on this topic pertaining to gas dryers and the replies offered. In them you'll find additional helpful information and advice.

Kindly use the reply button to post all replies, add additional information or ask additional questions when replies are posted. Using this method moves and/or keeps the topic back up to the top of the list of questions automatically and keeps all content on the same subject within one thread.

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance and or repairs.

Best Regards and Good Luck.
Sharp Advice. Web Site Host, Forums Manager, Monitor & Multiple Topics Moderator.

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Old 03-17-07, 08:14 PM
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Thank you Sharp Advice

You seem to have hit the nail right on the head describing my problem. The igniter seems fine - it glows a bright orange. Right after the first click it glows. The problem is I don't hear the second click and the igniter shuts off. When the burner does ignite (which is random and seems to always occur when first turned on) I do hear that second click. I have ordered the coils from repairclinic.com and will let you know if this solves the problem.

Do you think this will solve the problem of the timer not moving?

Thank you very much for your advice.
 
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Old 03-18-07, 07:31 AM
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Hello: noflame

Timer cannot advance if there is moisture in the exhausted air. The moisture sensor controls timer advancement also. Install the solenoids and the condition will likely be solved.

Be sure to install the solenoids per instructions. If you have to remove the entire gas valve, turn gas off at the tiny shut off valve to the right side of the burner control. The union NUT turns clock wise to unscrew it and counter clock wise to tighten it. Soap test for leaks when done.

Read the dryer help information sticky for additional help & information.

Regards and Good Luck
Sharp Advice
 
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Old 03-24-07, 01:42 PM
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Fixed

I replaced the 2 solenoid coils with the new ones, and the dryer works fine.

It was an easy thing to do, the problem was knowing that this is what needed done, and that is where your expertise came in.

Thanks again.
 
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Old 03-24-07, 05:32 PM
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Hello: noflame

Glad you where able to fix the dryer. As mentioned, regarding number one question in the original post, more often then not, simply replacing the solenoids resolves the no heat (no flame) problem...

Replacing solenoids isn't all that difficult nor are solenoids costly.

Should we now change your member name from noflame to hasflame?...

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Old 03-25-07, 04:35 PM
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Yeah, you could change it to hasflame, until the next thing that breaks for me. Seems like it is always something. That's why it is satisfying when you can fix it yourself - at least you can learn a little and save money too.
 
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Old 08-09-08, 12:58 PM
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I have the same problem as described below. I have changed the solenoids and now have flame. Great. The timer does not advance. I believe that it has a part number of 306483. Where is the cheapest place to find this part. Not wanting to make a large investment, could just as well find a cheap dryer on craigslist. Not sure if laying out the money for a new timer is the way to go. If that is not the problem, I am out $$$.
 
 

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