Maytag LDG7500AL- No Heat/Igniter Glow


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Old 07-06-07, 12:31 PM
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Maytag LDG7500AL- No Heat/Igniter Glow

Hi, I bought a used Maytag gas dryer that runs but will not heat. I would like some help on diagnosing the problem. Thanks in advance. Here is my methodology.

1. Checked control settings. -Heat enabled
2. Made sure vent was clear. -Clear
3. Checked gas supply line. -Clear
4. Checked to see if igniter would glow. -Igniter would not glow at all.
5. Checked igniter for physical damage. -No damage other than slight discoloration from usage.
6. Checked igniter for continuity. -Igniter is continuous.
7. Checked flame sensor for continuity. -Flame sensor is continuous.
8. Checked to make sure gas valve in dyer was open. -Open
9. ???

I am unsure of what to do at this point, I am under the impression that if it is the solenoids that the igniter would glow for a short period of time. I am also under the impression that the gas valve assembly is very rarely the cause of no heat. I'm thinking my next step is to test the temperature control, how would I go about this?

Any advice or suggestions are welcome.

Thanks,

Wrecked
 
  #2  
Old 07-08-07, 07:04 AM
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Welcome Wrecked to the Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

An igniter may appear to be undamaged visibly. However, a tiny crack or fracture in the carbonic element may still be present but not visible.

A continuity test may not disclose any failure until the element becomes heated & expands slightly. Then the continuity becomes lost. May need to replace the existing HSI. (Hot Surface Igniter)

Excellent job pre-checking many of the possibilities.
Below are a few other possibilities.

Fuse-able Link:
Check for continuity across this part. It will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have this part.

Flame Sensor could be the problem. This part is located on the burner housing. If it's defective, it will cause the glow igniter to not function or cause the problem your describing. Premature shut down. You can test the sensor with a continuity tester or an ohm meter. Should Be fully continuity.

Below is almost all the likely causes for the problem causes, possible solutions & help links.

Defective Solenoids:
There are two...both are on top of the gas valve. Solenoids also supply voltage to the glow coil and are part of the electrical loop.

You'll need to remove them from the top of the gas valve by removing the entire gas valve assembly first. Take them off the gas valve body by removing the hold down cover plate or take the entire gas valve unit to your local appliance parts store and have the entire assembly and parts tested.

Timer:
Control center for all functions. The timer has internal contacts and as it advances through the cycles, one of those contacts can become burned out, stuck opened or closed for any one of several reasons.

Timers also have cams that open and close those contact points. If the timer or any other selection switch, on the front control panel, is suspected of causing the existing problem you're having with the appliance, be sure all selections are correctly set.

If they are, the timer or other function selected switch may be defective. Timers are a non repairable item. Any or all of the control panels switches can be removed and taken to the local appliance retail parts store for testing.

Timers and switches can also be checked for continuity using an ohm meter or continuity tester. However, do not rely solely on a continuity test for proper timer functioning. Timers and switches are a non repairable items.

Thermal Fuse:
Check for continuity across these parts. Fuse able link will be located in the exhausts venting system prior to the discharge outlet. Thermal Fuse located on blower housing. If there is no continuity, replace the part. Not all dryers have these parts.

FYI:
The do-it-yourself person can do electrical tests and continuity tests on several of the parts. There are parts such as flame sensors, timers, solenoids, gas valves, etc. when neither of these tests will provide proof positive the part is actually functioning correctly. Therefore, do not rely solely on either test.

TIP:
The only positive proof any part is functioning correctly, is to carefully remove the part or parts you suspect to be the potential problems, and have the local appliance parts store person run the required tests.

Gas Dryer Help Link: http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=159481

Kindly use the reply button to post all replies, add additional information or ask additional questions when replies are posted. Using this method moves and/or keeps the topic back up to the top of the list of questions automatically and keeps all content on the same subject within one thread.

Retail appliance parts dealers can also help determine what the most likely possible problem may be. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Web Site Host, Moderator Hiring Agent, Gas Appliances Topic Moderator, Multiple Forums Moderator & Natural Gas Appliance Diagnostics Technician.
 
  #3  
Old 07-12-07, 06:28 PM
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Update on the dryer:
I tried replacing the igniter, but it did not fix it, so I rechecked the continuity on the flame sensor. The first time I took it to Radioshack, and apparently the employee did not know what he was doing, because this time it didn't have continuity. So I took back the igniter, and got a flame sensor, and all is well now. Thank you Sharp Advice.
 
 

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