Whirlpool stove top NOT getting gas?????


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Old 08-31-08, 03:01 PM
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Whirlpool stove top NOT getting gas?????

Please help me I've been fighting with the range all day!! Someone gave me a whirlpool super capacity 465 range.
I think I have (maybe) successfully converted it from nat. to LP.
But I do not think it is getting gas to the cook top burners.
I have been working on this all day, I have made sure the cook top is not locked as whirlpool said, I have put in the LP orifices, I have checked to make sure the igniters are working & not to far away, but it still won't lite!! I don't even smell or hear any gas at the burners. Is there a part that controls this that could be bad??
THANKS & Please answer before I pull all my hair out!
 
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Old 08-31-08, 10:21 PM
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forgot to mention something!

I forgot to put in my original post that the oven works fine, it is getting gas. So now what?
 
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Old 09-01-08, 08:00 AM
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Several Possibilities

Hello tml74047 and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and to the Gas Appliances topic.

I don't even smell or hear any gas at the burners. Is there a part that controls this that could be bad??
Locking device (child safety device) may be defective or not unlocking, resetting, etc. Double check.

Locking device (child safety device) may not be getting gas or letting it out... May want to or need to slightly open a tubing nut and verify gas is getting into safety device and out of it.

Also look for an isolation valve on the gas manifold that supplies gas to the top burners. Some models use one for the top burners and a separate one for the oven/broiler burners.

The top burner gas supply tube will most likely be made of aluminum. Like the one that supplies gas to the oven/broiler gas control valve in the oven compartment.

This tube may be under top lid below top burners or be a direct line off the appliances gas regulator. Some models and or brands use gas supply line(s) directly off and out of the regulator for oven/broiler and or top burners. Any combination is possible. Check that stove/range and verify it's configurations.
 
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Old 09-01-08, 10:27 PM
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don't want to sound stupid-BUT..............

Thanks so much for your help! At least now I feel I might be getting some where. BUT... could you give me an idea of what I'm looking for with this valve OR manifold thing, like what does it look like or where I could see a picture of it, that would really help me as I am more of a building type person. Don't have much appliance experience!! Thanks

this stove does have a separate line going to the burners, so this manifold thing is connected to that right? I can't even remove the top of this stupid thing it won't come up so I have to do everything from the back!
 
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Old 09-02-08, 06:30 AM
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Hello: tml74047

The manifold pipe will be the black pipe inside the appliance. The gas flex inlet supply connector will be connected to it. Might be a regulator connected to the manifold pipe, then the flex gas line connector connected to the regulator.

That internal black gas distribution pipe (manifold) will have aluminum tubes connect to it. One should go to the top burners and one to the oven/broiler burner. Or maybe three tubes. One to the top burners, one to the oven burner and one to a broiler. Depends upon brands and or model configurations, etc.

On the aluminum tube near it's connection point to the manifold will be or could the tiny (chrome or aluminum) isolation valve(s). They will have tiny levers on them or it. There angles must be parellel to the aluminum tubes. That will be the open position(s).

this stove does have a separate line going to the burners, so this manifold thing is connected to that right?
To answer your question above: YES. That seperate line is what I am referring to in all the above paragraphs and you'll be looking for. May be one or up to three, depending upon model, brand and configuration(s).

Sorry... No pictures to offer you. Maybe one of the other mods has photos or a web site where pictures can be seen...

Hope the above helps...

Regards and Good Luck.
 
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Old 09-06-08, 02:22 PM
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BOY WAS I WRONG!!!!! more of your great advice needed please!

Just goes to show you should always check for yourself & NOT take someones word!
I just THOUGHT I had the oven working, the woman who gave me this stove said it was just the stove top that didn't work. When I hooked the range up the oven called for gas & the it lit & so I moved on to talking with you about the burners. NOW I find that yes the oven lites but then after the preheat when it tries to lite again it just clicks and clicks and the temp falls, so I'm thinking that it's also not allowing gas in (cause, as with the burners I don't smell or hear any) SO>>> The oven lites the first time, the burners never lite so what the heck?? I really need help here I live way out & the repair guy wants $100 just to come out! He doesn't know of course what the repair itself would cost. Even if I could come up with that it wouldn't have money to buy food to cook anyway!! Thanks so much you've been great!! Teresa
 
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Old 09-08-08, 07:39 AM
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Thumbs up Establishing A Reference Point First.

Hi: Teresa

Let's try this first. A focus on first establishing a constant and steady gas supply into the appliance. Then let me know in your next reply the results.

Light the top burners with a match or BBQ lighter. Light all four burners and note the results in your next reply.

Due you get gas to the burners? Yes or No?

Due they all light?

If yes, then we have established there is gas going into the entire appliance as well as the top burners. If no gas, they due not light, no gas. If no gas, no burner flames, check for any tiny isolation valve that supplies gas to the top burners, if there is an isolation valve on an aluminum tube.

The above test is a means to establish a gas supply to the top burners. We will work on this aspect only for now. it has to be clear to me where we are at this point, gas supply wise, in order to establish what needs to be done first and then next.

The above test is a process of eliminations to first determining what condition(s) we have and then what needs to be done next. Your co-operation in this precess would be much appreciated in order for me to help you.
 
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Old 09-09-08, 06:34 PM
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Total co-operation here!!!

As you instructed I lit all the top burners with a match & low & behold they all lit, perfect blue flame tinged at the top with alittle orange just as they should be!! OK NOW What? Will be waiting for your reply, THANKS SO MUCH
Teresa
 
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Old 09-10-08, 08:27 AM
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Hi: Teresa

EXCELLENT! Making GREAT progress thus far....

3 part (question) reply this time.

We have now established gas into the appliance and the top burners are working and burning correctly.

Whether or not they are lighting by the spark igniter's or only manually may not be of a high concern at this point but it would be nice to know.

#1 Question:
Do the top burners light from the sparkers or not?

If yes, great. Done with the top burners.

If no, problem(s) exists.

Advise.

Next Issue.

You stated:
When I hooked the range up the oven called for gas & the it lit....NOW I find that yes the oven lites but then after the preheat when it tries to lite again it just clicks and clicks and the temp falls.....
#2 Question:
Did you convert the oven burner?

Did you move a lever or replace an orifice...???...

If yes, burner will light and burner flames will be correct for the fuel type used.

If no, that needs to be done. Oven burner set to the fuel type being used.

#3 Question:

If the burner is converted, did you convert the pilot flame also?

If yes, great. Not likely to be a cause for burner problem described above.

If no, that needs to be done. Pilot conversion should be easy.

Either there is a set screw under the temp control dial, if the appliance uses a rotating dial which simply pulls off or a set screw or tiny lever on the oven burners gas control valve that converts pilot from one type of fuel source to another.

Kindly reply to each question separately in next reply so we both know where we are in the processes.

RSVP
Thanks,
Tom
 
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Old 09-10-08, 06:39 PM
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answers to 1, 2, & 3

Hi There!

Don't know if you will be happy with my answers to your questions but please bear with me!!

1) YES the top burners now light from their ignitors or sparks.
So thats a done deal I quess.

2) NO - I did NOt convert oven (but I have a good reason why)
I have read all the info on that & I'll be darned if I can find a screw or lever or even any place that says nat. _ LP

I Have put on some pics so you can see what I mean (since undoubtedly YOU know what your looking for were as I don't)

3) NO- I did not change anything with the pilot. Actually this stove does not really have a "pilot light" it is electronic spark like the top burners (don't know if that matters<but want you to have all the info)
also their is no dial to turn on oven, it has a key pad.
 
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Old 09-11-08, 06:23 PM
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with help from the other members

Hi Tom,

Here is a link to those pictures I wanted you to see.
It took me awhile, but the members on DIY helped me on how to do this.

Thanks Teresa

http://photobucket.com/Teresasprojects
 
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Old 09-14-08, 06:28 AM
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Hello: Teresa

EXCELLENT PHOTOS...

Photo labeled "Gas Inlet" (second photo on the right side) is the gas inlet to the oven burner.

Not the regulator your looking for nor the one I am speaking of or referring to. The appliance regulator will be installed onto the main gas inlet pipe going into the entire appliance.

The first photo labeled "Electronic" is the HSI. (Hot Surface Igniter") Good photo also but not the cause of the problem.

To locate something to move or turn to convert the appliances regulator you'll need to locate the appliances regulator.

An assumption on my part has to be made that the appliance regulator is not converted. Unless you locate the regulator, find a lever or set screw that is labeled "N" or "Nat" for natural gas and "L" or "LP" indicating Liquid Propane.

Then set it to "L" or "LP" if it's currently set in "N" or "NAT." Reason to verify is top burners will ignite and burn in the incorrect settings often times. However, in this instance, flames will be much to large with Nat settings while burning propane.

Without me "seeing" regulator and it's setting or seeing top burner flame size, while set to high setting, an assumption... has to be made regulator is currently set to the incorrect fuel type setting...

Another assumption is the regulator is set correctly based upon you're verifying top burners work fine and oven does light initially but does not maintain temp.

Your quote:
NOW I find that yes the oven lites but then after the preheat when it tries to lite again it just clicks and clicks and the temp falls
Incorrect statement above is oven sparker clicks and clicks. Oven has an HSI that glows. Not a spark igniter or sparking igniter. HSI glows, does not spark. Minor issue but good to know...

But not to worry. We are making good progress here. Except for my typing fingers getting numb again. Reason for this condition unknown too...BUMMER!

Very likely reason oven does not maintain temp is a weak HSI. Very common cause for symptom described. Replacing HSI likely to resolve the oven temp problem. Worth a try.
 
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Old 09-14-08, 10:11 AM
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Sharp Advise A Godsend!

Thanks Tom,
I have ordered a HSI for my range, I'm certain you are right, that has to be the problem.

I found a label (why do they hide these things!) Anyway if you stick your head in the oven and turn around to look back out you see this label that says "DOUBLE COAXIAL ORFICE HOODS MUST BE SCREWED TIGHT WHEN LP GAS IS USED"
Now if only I knew what the heck that means or should I say where those are I'd be in business!!!

Thanks so much for all your help, your the greatest Tom
 
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Old 09-14-08, 08:35 PM
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more

That picture that I titled "gas inlet" that is the front view of this brass lookin thing that I hooked the gas line from the house to.

It's solid on the back except for the hole to attach gas line. So in other words I just don't know where else to look for the regulator you told me about, gosh I feel like an idiot !!!!!!!!! Tryin' real hard not to pull this range out the door & throw it in the pond!
 
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Old 09-15-08, 07:36 AM
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Hi: Teresa

I found a label (why do they hide these things!)!!!
Manufacturers HIDE the labels to confuse and mystify service techs... Actually, one of the several reasons is because of the labels size based upon the amount of info on it.

Another is to cause discomfort to the service persons neck and back sticking head into oven compartment and looking backwards out again. Over the years it can cause a disabilty...

Anyway if you stick your head in the oven and turn around to look back out you see this label that says "DOUBLE COAXIAL ORIFICE HOODS MUST BE SCREWED TIGHT WHEN LP GAS IS USED"
Now if only I knew what the heck that means or should I say where those are I'd be in business!!!
Simply means the orifices can be both Natural gas and/or Propane gas. Depending upon how it is screwed onto the outlet.

If the picture labeled gas inlet is the back side of the regulator, then I error ed. That is the regulator. Back side view. Front side should then have the set screw or lever to convert to the fuel type used. Or marked as to it's fuel type. Look at the front side and advise.
 
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Old 09-15-08, 08:00 AM
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Hi: Teresa

A quote from another post in this forum topic regarding burner orifices is below. Refers to that statement on the label DOUBLE COAXIAL ORFICE HOODS MUST BE SCREWED TIGHT WHEN LP GAS IS USED

Read # 3 post:
http://forum.doityourself.com/showthread.php?t=359689

Thanks for the advice, took care of the problem today. They had the appliance regulator set correctly for LP, but the orfices were not screwed all the way in.
 
 

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