Kenmore 80 Series dryer - clothes still damp

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Old 01-12-10, 03:59 AM
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Kenmore 80 Series dryer - clothes still damp

I have a Kenmore 80 Series gas dryer, Model# 110.72802101 - a few weeks ago it wouldn't get hot, and I smelled gas. I cleaned the lint (it wasn't a huge amount) from the vent stack, and after reconnecting the stack, the dryer seemed to ignite and heat.

However, it seemed to be taking an inordinate amount of time to dry the clothes - they still remained damp after a full cycle (timed or moisture-sensing) - previously it would take about 45-50 minutes to dry a load, now it takes at least twice that.
I then opened up the dryer, pulled the drum, removed and cleaned out the internal vent tube (which *was* rather linty), and blew out everything with my air compressor. Upon reassembly, I detected no noticeable change. I can feel the vent stack get warm (and verify by watching the cloud of steam issuing from the vent on the side of my house), but it doesn't seem to stay hot (or at least hot all the time)

This has not been a gradually increasing problem - we do our laundry on the weekends, and one weekend it was working fine, and the next weekend it was acting as described above.

Any ideas?

Thanks,
-Jon
 
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Old 01-12-10, 05:38 AM
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Hello Jon. Welcome to the Gas Appliances topic and the Do-It-Yourself Web Site.

You have done about all the preliminary steps required before suspecting a part is defective..... Good Job.

Most likely cause is defective solenoids. There are two of them. Both on top of the gas control valve. Very likely one of them is failing to remain open. Thus closing off the burner gas flow causing the flame to go out much to soon. Very common problem.

Solution is to replace both solenoids with original replacement parts. Can and should be purchased at a local appliance parts dealer in your are. They will need the make, model and serial numbers. Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and problem resolving matters. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs or services. Always check for gas leaks whenever moving the appliance and/or a service or repair includes any connection of a gas part.

Instructions to replace solenoids here: Gas Dryer Sticky Note In The Forum Topic For Additional Advice:
>Dryer Information + *Fuel Conversion*< Info Contained Here< - DoItYourself.com Community Forums

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.
 
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Old 01-12-10, 02:24 PM
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I called our local appliance parts store and they told me it was part# 280010 (which references the pair), which they could order for about $45.

I found the pair online at searspartsdirect for $28, so I'll probably get them there.

I just have two questions - could you confirm that I have the right part # and that the $28 is for both solenoids, and also provide some assurance that this is not the thermostat (reading through old threads, it seemed to be a tossup between the thermostat and solenoids given this kind of problem).

Thanks,
-Jon
 
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Old 01-12-10, 06:04 PM
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Before you do the coils take the vent off the dryer back and try to dry a load of clothes ( It will get hot and damp in room dryer is in, I would open window if you can) If clothes dry that way then you need to reclean the vent tube to the outside. another way to check is take vent off back of dryer and feel air coming out, reconnect vent go outside and the same amout of air sould be coming out outside.
 
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Old 01-12-10, 06:45 PM
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See original post. Cleaning the vent stack was the first thing I tried. I also cleaned the inside vent tube (runs from the drum, past the lint filter, and out the back), which actually had much more lint in it than the vent stack.

Thanks,
-Jon
 
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Old 01-13-10, 12:30 AM
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BTW, I do own a SeeSnake inspection camera with a 3' cable that can fit inside a 9mm hole, so if you need me to check something specific on the inside while the dryer is running, I could probably do that.

As far as some background, I used to work for an electrician doing residential installs (both rough-in and trim), and I do all the plumbing repairs for myself and my relatives (self-taught), but I shy away from gas (due to the obvious potential for both danger and liability). I also maintain/repair all three household vehicles (two of which are over 15 years old), and any and all other local machines/appliances (including but not limited to our snowblower, lawnmower, Jacuzzi (which I completely restored from junk), gas grill (replacing the burners and igniter does not require much gas skills, fortunately), motorboat (again restored from junk), etc, etc, etc... I don't want to sound like I'm bragging - I just don't want to be treated like an idiot.

Thanks again,
-Jon

P.S. Does replacing the solenoids require any specific skills above and beyond general mechanical and electrical ability? I usually call an HVAC guy if I need to worry about gas seals, fittings, connections, etc. (I don't like to have liability for blowing up my house resting on my shoulders, plus I doubt my homeowners insurance covers damage resulting from DIY gas connections...;-)

P.P.S. Pugsl said: "Before you do the coils take the vent off the dryer back and try to dry a load of clothes ( It will get hot and damp in room dryer is in, I would open window if you can)" - Wouldn't that present a CO [carbon monoxide] hazard? Stacks/vents on gas appliances are there to not only disperse heat and oxygenate the burner, but to also vent CO, AFAIK - am I wrong?
 

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Old 01-13-10, 03:18 AM
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coils usually will let dryer heat for 1st couple of minutes than they warn up and open, If that sounds like your dryer than you will need coils, Very easy to change after you take drum out ,usually 1 or 2 screws take clamp off, Door closed window open should take care of CO but I Am not gas co.
Dryer vent are 95% of most dryer problems. Even after customers have cleaned then I still find most problems there.
 
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Old 01-13-10, 06:10 AM
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Hello: Jon

In reply to your two questions:

I just have two questions - could you confirm that I have the right part # and that the $28 is for both solenoids, and also provide some assurance that this is not the thermostat (reading through old threads, it seemed to be a tossup between the thermostat and solenoids given this kind of problem).
Answer to both questions is no. Cannot assure right part number nor defective part is a solenoid nor price quoted is for two solenoids. However, solenoids are very commonly or very likely to be sold in pairs. Never known of them to be sold any other way but in pairs.

Part numbers very likely to be different between Sears numbers and numbers used on parts from a local appliance parts dealer. Standard business practice. But you can rest easy buying parts either way, since you're buying from Sears direct or locally at a dealer.

My suggestion:
Replace the two solenoids and be done with it. Very, very likely the cause of the problem based upon problem description. Solenoid replacement is quick and easy for almost anyone handy with small tools and whom pays a little attention to details.

In regards to CO, not to worry about that either. Spent many years myself as a carbon monoxide specialist. Not much CO produced to even be concerned with during a one dry test load. All that emits by dryer exhaust is mostly moisture which will collect some on the walls and in the area of the dryer.

Once Again My Suggestion:
Replace the two solenoids.......
 
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Old 01-13-10, 02:00 PM
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Thanks! I'll order them today!

BTW, I know it sounds strange, but the part # the local guys gave me is the same as on searsdirect. The local guys are pretty sharp - I'm guessing they gave me the sears part number (particularly since I told them I wanted to shop around, and they were totally fine with that).

Thanks again,
-Jon
 
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Old 01-14-10, 01:58 AM
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@Sharp Advice - I apologize. I wasn't asking you to warrant or guarantee I had the right part - I just wanted you to pop in the part number at searspartsdirect.com and see if you thought that sounded like the right part, since online they call it a "thermal cut-off kit", and that doesn't sound right to me.

Sharp Advice, I'd could really use your help on this, because I think I might have screwed up by believing the local guys when they said it was part number 280010 - the diagram at searspartsdirect seems to indicate that the two solenoids (they call them coils - I guess a solenoid is mostly a coil...) are part numbers 694540 and 694539 respectively. One has two contacts/leads, and the other has three - does this sound familiar?

Sigh - I guess the best news (for me, at least) is that I didn't give the local guys any payment info, nor sign anything that says I will pay for the part(s) that they ordered (if the part(s) ordered do not turn out to include a pair of gas valve solenoids.) I already called (after hours) to hold or cancel my original part(s) order, since I lack confidence in their assessment that part number 280010 is what I need, when the diagram seems to indicate parts 694549 and 694539.

I'm pretty clueless here - I would be grateful for any additional help...

Thanks,
-Jon
 
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Old 01-14-10, 03:36 AM
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It sounds like yo have ordered or got the right parts. 1 coil has 2 prongs and the other has 3. Just cked # and they are right. here is a link to your parts
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/part...0101079&blt=06
 
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Old 01-14-10, 01:58 PM
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Thanks, pugsl - the parts shop was fine with me cancelling the order, and they have the solenoids in stock, so as soon as I can get over there and grab them, I'll post back on how it goes.

Thanks again,
-Jon
 
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Old 01-15-10, 11:47 PM
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Fixed!

New gas solenoid coils fixed it! The difference is like night and day. It dries reasonably quickly, even on moisture-sensing. Thanks Sharp Advice and Pugsl! You guys rock!

Thanks again,
-Jon
 
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Old 01-16-10, 07:15 AM
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Hi: Jon

Glad you got that dryer fixed........

And both myself and pugsl where able to provide the information needed to accomplish the task......

For Purposes of Clarification for all members reading this thread and reply: (Terms or names for parts often get confusing and or mis-stated....... )

A COIL is a winding of wires around a spool. That's all a coil is. A SOLENOID is a mechanical device that performs an operation of some type. In this case with the dryer, when the COIL is energized with electrical current, it magnetizes and lifts the valve stem it is placed on.

When the coil is energized, it lifts the disk at the base of the solenoids stem. When the disk is raised it opens a normally closed valve. (Fail safe to always be closed.) When opened gas can flow. Remove the current from the coil of electrical windings and the disk drops down closing which then stops the gas flow........

Exactly like and/or similar to a water faucet. Open the faucet and the water flows. Closed it stops. Exception is when a solenoid is used it makes the manual and mechanical operation automatic........

BTW:
Solenoids open water valves in a washing machine too. Controlling water flow. When water level obtained, switch cuts current to solenoid and water stops flowing.

Hope the above clarifies what a solenoid is and what a coil is. And how they can be used together in combination to automate a mechanical operation.
 
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Old 01-18-10, 01:55 AM
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Exactly! From my experience I tend to think of a solenoid as both the coil and the actuator, but many people do not, and this is not a good assumption to start out with.

One thing I learned from all this is that in many instances, the coil is not integrated with the actuator, and are often sold separately (since I'm guessing the electrical coil is much more likely to fail and need replacement then the mechanical actuator). Many folks in the appliance field (ie the parts people I talked to on the phone) are expecting you to say the word "coil" when you want to replace the solenoid coil. Saying the word "solenoid" may cause them to be confused, as might the word "solenoid coil". If they're confused, they might try to sell you the wrong part (like the thermal cut-off kit - see prior posts ;-).

Thanks again!
-Jon
 
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