Tappan Range Gas Valve and Glow Bar

Old 12-03-00, 03:20 PM
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I have a Tappan gas oven with a sprial glow bar. Things worked great until a few days ago. Now, the bar does not heat at all and no gas flows from the valve.

I read your summary on this subject and I understand it is common to pass power to the glow bar which then passes power to the valve when the bar is sufficiently hot. However, my wiring diagram which I have verified with continuity tests show the temp selector knob passes power to the oven valve, and the valve then passes power through a fuse to the glow bar; the other wire from glow bar is attached to N. How does this valve operate? It seems to be backwards from standard...

Anyway, I have verified power TO the temp selector switch. I have verified power FROM the switch -- when I turn it to any temparture. I have verified power TO the oven gas valve when the switch is on (and none when it is off). However there is no power FROM the oven valve (to the fuse and then to the glow bar). I have replaced the fuse for good measure although the valve passes no power to it. I have verified continuity from the valve to the fuse and then to the glow bar lead. Since the valve doesn't output power, nothing flows through the fuse to the glow bar.

Is the valve supposed to pass power through to the glow bar when the temp selector knob is on? If so, can I repair valve or should I replace? The glow bar passes continuity test so I assume it should at least heat up a bit! However, I Have tried a new glow bar and results are the same. This is becaue no power ever flows to either of the leads connected to the glow bar.

BTW, this is an older Tappan range with open burners and no timers etc. The clock has stopped working as well. Is it worth replacing the valve and/or glow bar, or is it wiser to look at buying a new range? Thanks.
Old 12-03-00, 07:16 PM
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My best evaluation of the electrical wiring system discribed in your posting is the wiring may be in parallel.
One wire at the gas valve may be hot while the other isn't. The current then has to pass through the glow coil, etc. and make the trip back to the gas valve.

Therefore, check for continuity on both wires of the gas valve with the continuity tester to be sure and verify that only one wire has current when the thermostat temperature knob is turned on.

Your correct when you stated the gas valve shouldn't be getting current before the glow coil has current. <I.E. Backwards from standard.> The current should be coming from the temp selector going to the glow coil first.

Connecting the temp control to the gas valve first, the gas valve would open first, gas would be flowing before there is a positive source of ignition. A disaster in the making!

Replacing the whole stove to avoid the hassles and learning experience of fixing the oven is a choice only you could make. I suggest you continue on and doityourself.

Once the job is completed, verify the results are correct <the glow coil glows before the gas valve opens> then relax and enjoy a brew. You'll deserve it.

Good Luck,


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