Magic Chef wall oven hinges

Old 12-21-00, 04:15 PM
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Just posting this to see if any of you out there with a similar vintage wall oven (1968) have had any tips or shortcuts in changing the shear screws/hinge assemblies.

This unit has a nice heavy upper door which over time will wear out the hinges and cause the shear screw to break, making the door tough to open.


1) Any tools or tricks to install either the hinge or the spring onto the units? My dad did them a few times, and this will be my first time doing them, so I want to know if someone's got a good method. The issue is that the oven cannot come out of the wall cabinet far enough (just enough) to get something in there to hook the hinge's spring onto the pivot screw.

2) Easier to change the whole hinge? I'm pretty sure I can secure new ones locally from my local parts depot. They are usually very reliable and helpful in finding the old stuff. Got me the jet I mentioned in the other post in one day. Original Magic Chef too .

Any tips, or help is appreciated.

Also, any help on what the lubricant should be for the range valves (see my other post on that). Is 3 and 1 oil suitable? I also saw TFE lubricant in the hardware store, but shyed away from it, because I felt it was more a sealer than a lubricant. (although it did state it lubricates too). The valve and stem lubricant they had said "resists high temperature" but said nothing about natural gas. Want to use something good.

Thanks for any replies. Great forum. I'm glad I can participate in Automotive .
Old 12-21-00, 06:22 PM
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Post 3 in 1Okay


Read your prior posting. I posted information regarding the lubrication of top burner valves for you. 3 in 1 oil well do the lube job just fine.

In regards to the oven door brackets, you can replace the broken screws and hindges with upgraded hardware if you visit an appliance retail store. Be sure to bring the make, model and serial number when you go.

If the appliance is worth having then it may be worth replacing all the parts with new parts designed for that appliance.

The question is: Why can't the oven be fully removed from the cabinet? Is it do to the gas line connection not being a flex line? A solid connector? If so, what type of material is the solid connector made of?

Reason I ask is, if it's NOT a flex gas line, now would be the correct time to replace that also. If you do not have a line valve on the supply pipe <Houseline> this would need to be installed also, when the flex line gets installed.
Old 12-21-00, 06:26 PM
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Thanks Tom.

I will try the 3 and 1 oil on them. I just want to use something that won't cause a fire .

Thanks for the info. on the gas range. I have all of that information neatly written on the 1968 vintage instruction booklet!!! Wow . I will contact my reliable parts house, a place that has been there since the turn of the century!

It has a flex line there now. I can remember my dad having trouble with it. Perhaps it is not long enough to allow the unit to swing out of the cabinet for easy access. I will post the details of said repair when I attempt it.

Thanks again.
Old 01-04-01, 01:32 PM
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I e mailed the good folks at Gem products (they distribute appliance parts) and they are looking into what's available for me.


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