Dynasty (Gas Oven) DGRS304

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Old 01-18-11, 12:50 PM
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Dynasty (Gas Oven) DGRS304

Oven will not light. Broiler and burners work fine. Stove is about 15 years old and has been in use, not stored.

Replaced ignitor and still will not light.

Readings are:
3.53A with meter in series with ignitor and valve.
3.5VAC across valve terminals with wires connected.
Continuity (0 ohms) across valve with wires disconnected.

Anything left besides the valve itself?
All I can find says they never go bad...but....never...?
Is there a need to verify gas supply up to the valve...or...

I would just like to have some confirmation or agreement before purchasing the valve.

Thanks
 
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Old 01-19-11, 06:20 AM
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Hello: BFHFixit

Yes. Verify gas is present to gas valve before replacing the valve. Follow the gas supply tube from the valve to where it connects to the main gas supply manifold on the appliance.

There will be or should be, a tiny isolation valve on the end near the manifold gas supply tube. The isolation valve will have a tiny lever on it. That lever is a gas supply shut off valve. Must be opened to allow gas to flow into gas control valve located in the oven.

Slightly loosen the nut on the control valve until you hear and smell some gas. If none comes out, valve is in closed position. Open shut off lever. You should smell and hear a tiny amount of gas flow (escape) out of loosened nut. When gas is present, re-tighten nut and check for any gas leakage at the nut. None should be present to ensure you tightened nut sufficiently.

If gas is present but valve still does not allow gas to pass, be sure electrical current is present. If current is present, turn oven temp on and wait till HSI glows brightly. Then tap valve with back end of a screw driver. Valve should open and burner should light flames.

If not, valve likely struck and/or defective. Replace gas control valve and note the results. Post results back here so we all know what results. Thanks.

BTW: NO hammer (like in your signature) needs to be used...:NO NO NO:...HA HA HA....

 
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Old 01-19-11, 07:32 AM
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Thanks for the reply Sharp,
I did try to gently but persuasively tap the valve after the ignitor (no hammer used ) had been glowing good for about 3 minutes. The valve body itself does get good and warm.

I don't know of any reason that any manual valve would have been changed. I will talk to him and we can make sure gas is present at the safety valve.

Will update as I have new info.
 
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Old 01-26-11, 01:18 PM
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Well checked for gas supply to valve, hmmm no pssssssssssss or smell or nutin.
Traced it back to the manifold and found an iso valve that I can not believe would be used for this application. I would expect perhaps a 1/4 turn manual valve of some sort, but not what looks to me more like a pressure relieve valve with a lever spring loaded "closed" The guy failed to tell me when I asked him if there was any chance of anything being disturbed on the stove when I asked. Once I found this, he then told me....oh ya, I had some folks house watching for a while and he was a culinary student probably was cleaning and meant to do well and tripped the valve.

At any rate, found the problem and voila, good call Sharp and thanks again.
 
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