Oven doesn't ignite

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Old 04-11-11, 04:07 PM
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Oven doesn't ignite

I have a Whirlpool freestanding gas range/oven (Model: WFG114SVB0 SN: VEW3204391). A week ago I noticed the over wasn't getting hot. I checked glow bar and noticed that it was not getting hot. I checked continuity of the glow bar and measured an open circuit. So I purchased a new glow bar (part number 98005652) and replaced it.

Once the glow bar was replaced, the glow bar heats up and the gas valve opens but the gas does not ignite. I've only let the gas come out for about 30 seconds before I turn off the oven. I was curious if the gas valve was completely opening (it says it requires 3.6-3.8 amps) so I decided to measure the resistance of the glow bar as it heats up. At room temperature I measure 200 Ohms and when it is hot, I measure 28 Ohms. This tells me that it is drawing at least 4 Amps which should be sufficient to open the gas valve.

I also wanted to check to make sure that the burner would light so used a candle lighter to ignite the gas. Everything seems to burn fine.

I'm running out of ideas on why the gas doesn't ignite with the new glow bar. Any help is greatly appreciated.
 
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Old 04-14-11, 05:43 AM
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Hello bsc517 and Welcome to the Do It Yourself Web Site and the Gas Appliances topic.

Near as I can determine, based upon the problem description, is a possibility of restricted burner ports. Those are either holes or slots near the igniter.

Usually the ignition ports near the HSI igniter are or could be clogged up with a white powdery substance byproduct of natural gas. Sulfur deposits. If the appliance uses natural gas. (???) Not mentioned which fuel is used.

Cleaning the burner to remove any restrictions near or at the ignition ports resolves the problem described. Detailed information how to is located >HERE<

Use the reply button to add additional information or questions. Using the reply button keeps or moves the topic back up to the top of the list automatically and keeps all communications on this subject in this thread.
 
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Old 04-14-11, 07:45 PM
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You are correct, the oven is natural gas. I took out the burner and cleaned it with warm water and soap. There wasn't much of the white powdery substance, but I made sure that it was clean. All of the holes are completely open. I allowed the burner to completely dry and reassembled the burner. I still have the same problem.

My thought is one of two things: the glow bar is not getting hot enough or there is something wrong with safety valve and I'm not getting enough flow. Are there any other options on the problem?

I've read several places that it is very uncommon for the safety valve to go bad but the glow bar is new, and the resistance measurements make me think that the glow bar is working correctly (unless its not getting hot enough to ignite the gas).

Thanks,
 
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Old 04-15-11, 06:23 AM
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Hello: bsc517

A miss match between the HSI and gas valve can be a common problem. One reason I always try to remember suggesting replacing both parts if the member hasn't already replaced the HSI or gas valve.

In your case, like many others, the question gets asked (posted) after the fact. Suggestion now would be to replace the gas control valve to match the HSI.

Not a problem if the HSI was purchased at a local appliance parts store. They will have the correct part based on what they already sold you. Not so if you purchase the HSI on line. Time to inquire at the local retail parts store in your area. Good Luck.
 
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Old 04-15-11, 06:28 PM
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The HSI was purchased online, part of my skepticism of a defective HSI. I did a quick search and didn't see any appliance parts dealers in the area, plenty of appliance repair places though. Do most repair locations also sell parts?

Another concern I have is the difficulty to replace the gas valve. I'm comfortable with electrical and am somewhat comfortable working with gas but I'm not completely sure what is required to replace the gas valve. I did a quick search on this forum and didn't see any guidelines for replacing the oven gas valve. Could someone provide me with some guidance on what is required to replace the valve so I can make the decision to replace it myself or higher a professional.

Thanks,
 
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Old 04-26-11, 04:24 PM
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Replaced HSI again and now oven works. Just wanted to update the post and let people know it has been solved. Apparently the voltage drop was enough to open the gas valve but it wasn't hot enough to ignite the gas. Luckily, the company replaced the HSI free of charge.

Thanks for everyone's comments
 
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